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Discussion Starter #1
G' Afternoon! Fellow E owners..

So for about the last month or so I've been having a hard start issue with my Element. Eventually after 20 minutes of nearly draining battery, the engine fires up. I've uploaded 3 separate videos to YT that show the symptoms (links below). 1st video is what i am calling a dry start. 2nd video is a wet start. And by the 3rd video you see the engine finally decides to fire up.(03' AWD EX 198)

Now i have done extensive reading on what could be causing this, here's the list: Weak fuel pump, Clogged fuel filter, Dirty MAP sensor, Failing TPS/IACV(throttle body).

Thing is, as soon as it fires up, engine runs flawlessly. New plugs, New Coils, New Air Filter, New PCV, New PCV Hose, New Battery, Cleaned throttle body. Before i continue with a Valve Adjustment, Fuel pump/fuel filter, Throttle body, MAP Sensor. What could possibly be specifically causing this issue.

1st crank, dry start:
2ns crank, wet start:
3rd crank, eventual start:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to add: Only way i am currently getting it to fire up is by depressing the gas all the way, letting go and holding midway to fire up.

Only happens when cold. Once engine is warm, engine starts without issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Performed compression test today and all cylinders are holding at 180 psi. Will pop off valve cover tomorrow morning and check valve clearance (especially exhaust) I am leaning towards a new throttle body would luckily solve this issue. Might also perform a leak down test.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Valve adjustment went better than expected. Intakes were loose and exhaust were tight(adjusted all 16)(I.009-E.012)

Still has a long start, but it is turning on under a minute compared to 20 minutes of cranking before.

Next up i will be checking fuel pressure and cleaning injectors.

Only issue i am having is removing the MAP sensor phillip head, Honda really should have gone with a 10mm there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So car hasn't started since last monday. I've installed 4 new fuel injectors, 2 new main relays(Pump&FI), new crankshaft sensor. I wont continue to throw more parts at it until the shop where i take my car can do a proper scan and see if any sensors parameters are off. BTW, no engine codes. I disconnected the TPS just to test the engine light and it does work. Erased it aswell.

I've done extensive reading on what causes a crank no start and have come up with too many parts too be crazy enough to change them all: Camshaft position sensors, Oil pressure sending unit, MAP sensor, TPS, IACV, Ignition switch to name the top ones. Again, no engine codes.

So can anybody name any other sensors/parts i may be over looking that could prevent the engine from firing up?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It doesn't. You will need to have it hooked up to a scanner and check for codes.
The shop wont be able to hook it up to a scanner until wednesday.
But i just noticed that instead of the engine light turning off it is flashing 5 times then turning off. It's my understanding that each number of flashes indicates something specifically. Wondering what 5 quick flashes indicates.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
These are emission readiness codes.


There should be a page in the owners manual on this.
Now im doubting whether the aftermarket PCV from AZ was a bad investment. I pulled it out and it has the rattle thats suppose to mean its good. Just not sure that the valve should sit open as i saw it when i checked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I am not proud of posting this, but heres my VTC Strainer. This is for anybody doubting servicing it. It seems daunting when you realize you have to remove the belt, PS pump, stubborn belt tensioner, and support the engine from below to be able to remove the engine mount completely just to get to that rear belt tensioner bolt. But glad i did because first thing tomorrow is picking up a new VTC strainer also referred to as the FRONT vtec solenoid gasket.



 

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