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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My E just hit 6000 with the stock oil so time for a change (told you should keep the "break in" oil for at least 5000 miles, then you can go to a synthetic for life).

After a futile search for any synthetic 5W-20 oil, I picked up the Mobil 1 0W-20 bottle yesterday and much to my surprise, is states it is designed for Honda engines that call for 5W-20 oil! It goes one step further by even listing all the Honda models including the 2002+ CRV and that the 0W-20 is suitable for Honda warranty coverage.

Anyone know why or how a 0W-20 can be a substitute for a 5W-20?
 

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The last number refers to it's operating-temperature viscosity. A 20-weight oil is thinner than a 30-weight oil, so that's one of the reasons I like running synthetic in the 20 weight--in any given viscosity, synthetic generally has a much higher film strength (shear) than conventional oil; the hydrodynamic film of oil between components is "stronger" than conventional for the same given thickness.

The first number tells how the oil flows when cold. When the oil is at ambient temperature, it "behaves" like a 0 weight or 5 weight, thereby pumping quicker at startup than a straight 20 weight oil would.

Here's the catch: the first number is a minimum pumpability rating. Therefore, Mobil-1 could actually bottle the 0W20 as a 5W20 and legally sell it with the API starburst!

So do you get the same protection from 0W20 Mobil-1 as a conventional 5W20? YOU BET! It's even better all-around, especially in the winter when you can benefit from that extra pumpability. The synthetic oil doesn't need many (and in some cases any) viscosity modifiers* added to the oil to give it the 20-point spread, it holds up really well viscosity-wise over the life of the oil. However, conventional 5W20 oil uses them to thicken the oil when warm for the 15-point spread, these wear out over time and the oil thins, diminishing protection.

*Viscosity modifiers are actually non-lubricating heat-activated polymers that thicken the oil from it's cold viscosity called out by the first number, to the thicker viscosity called out by the last number. They improve the hydrodynamic film thickness, but do no lubricating. Synthetics have a natural ability to pump when colds so the base oil is "designed" closer to the last number. Conventional oils don't have a good natural viscosity index, so they have to start with the first number and get to the second number with these polymer additives.

I've been using 0W20 in the E for a couple thousand miles now, no consumption. People will tell you you'll use more oil if you go from 5 to 0, my experience so far doesn't support that at all. The oil light goes out faster in this car using 0W20 than in any other car I've ever had... which is a good thing (pressure rises fast).

[quote:ca3a52867f="sspiller"]Anyone know why or how a 0W-20 can be a substitute for a 5W-20?[/quote:ca3a52867f]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the details, i have only run mobil one in all my vehicles, mostly bmw's and never had an engine issue due to wear or burned any oil... i have heard that you want to 'break in' an engine with regular oil then change after 5000 miles. however, i've also heard the opposite seeing how porche's and corvettes come with mobil one in them from the factory. i decided to run the stock oil (checked it every month) up until now, 6000 miles, just got my filters and washer so i'm going to change it tonight. i usually don't run over 5000 miles even with the synthetic...
 

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Hey now I am clear on the first number but can you please explain the last number in the 5-20 would 5-30 be a better oil than a 5-20 both mob1 synth.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In the earlier post "A 20-weight oil is thinner than a 30-weight oil, so that's one of the reasons I like running synthetic in the 20 weight--in any given viscosity, synthetic generally has a much higher film strength (shear) than conventional oil; the hydrodynamic film of oil between components is "stronger" than conventional for the same given thickness."

The 20 appears to be the thickness, I suspect the engine tolerances dictate the thickness of the oil that is best. Seeing how the Mobil 1 0-20 states designed for honda crv's that is the oil to go with vs. the 5-30 even though you can get the 5-30 in a 5qt. bottle at Walmart for $18 and can't get the 0-20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here in NE we have VIP Discount Auto, they carry 0-20 Mobil 1, apparently only hondas and acuras use it... so not at Walmart or other volume stores likely because they won't move to much of it.
 

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Getting the oil filter off my current non-E ride is a pain-in-the-tuckus - it's impossible to change it without taking an oil shower. On the plus side, I can get under it without a jack. So...

...how accessible are the filter and drain plug on the E, and do you have to jack it up to do it?
 

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I had access to mine from the top, but ended up having to buy an oil filter socket because the thing was on there so tight.

Also something to watch out for; as I was leaning over the front of the E, I knocked off one of the rubber supports for the hood and it was swallowed up somewhere in the lower part of the front end. Lost a front clip that way too when I had the bumper off a month ago... :oops:
 

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hehe


[quote:5f8b9e47e7="Ramy"]I had access to mine from the top, but ended up having to buy an oil filter socket because the thing was on there so tight.

Also something to watch out for; as I was leaning over the front of the E, I knocked off one of the rubber supports for the hood and it was swallowed up somewhere in the lower part of the front end. Lost a front clip that way too when I had the bumper off a month ago... :oops:[/quote:5f8b9e47e7]
 
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