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Discussion Starter #1
I’m planning on replacing my MTF (my E is 4 years old @ 60K miles, and this service is prior to the minimum required mileage or time). Appears to be a very simple operation. However, I realized it might be tricky to get the new MTF back in—opening for same is on a vertical plane. What’s the recommended procedure &/or tool?

The local Honda dealer parts dude stated they had what is effectively a very large syringe, but couldn’t tell me where they got it or what it was called. Anyone know where to find same?

I asked the parts dude for a M/T crush washer. He asked for year and model, pulled up the parts on his computer, and concluded it is the same as the crankcase crush washer. Can anyone confirm or deny this? The service manual doesn't specify a P/N as far as I can see. Obviously I can compare my OEM crankcase crush washers to what comes off of the M/T, but I like to have replacement parts in hand BEFORE I begin a service.
 

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My local parts counter guy confirmed the same you heard as far as the crush washers go.

I've got a top that screws onto the bottle that I got for autozone w/ a tube that comes out that allows me to squeeze the MTF out of the bottle. Its also got a valve to shut if off which is nice too, helps keep the mess down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My local parts counter guy confirmed the same you heard as far as the crush washers go.

I've got a top that screws onto the bottle that I got for autozone w/ a tube that comes out that allows me to squeeze the MTF out of the bottle. Its also got a valve to shut if off which is nice too, helps keep the mess down.
Great. Thanks for your input.

I'm confused about squeezing the MTF out of the bottle. Are you able to get all of it out of the bottle?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just thought of this. I've got thisMityvac Vacuum Pump Kit. It also develops pressure, not just vacuum. I believe I can fill the included reservoir with MTF, switch the pump to "pressure," and fill the M/T this way. That would be slick. Anyone tried this or know if it would work.
 

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Great. Thanks for your input.

I'm confused about squeezing the MTF out of the bottle. Are you able to get all of it out of the bottle?
If you put a long enough tube on it, you can tip the bottle up and get almost all of it out. you'll be stuck with a little bit, but not much. Your vaccuum pump sounds much more elegant.
 

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changing MT fluid is almost as easy (if not easier) as changing engine oil. I do it every 15k miles, it only uses a quart and a half - 2 quarts or so of fluid and I think the difference in shifting is very noticeable.

The easiest way I've found is to buy 4-5 feet of clear tubing. Pair the one end to a small dollar store funnel, run the tubing through the engine bay and put the other end in where the filler bolt goes.

Fill it up with the car level. When it starts dripping/pouring out the filler hole, take out the tubing and reinstall the bolt.

less than $5 total. Cheaper than buying a $50 plus mityvac system.
 

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The funnel and hose (gravity fill) works great and is easy and inexpensive.

If you want to get a bit fancier, try one of those hand pumps that screws directly to the top of the bottle. In some cases this is less messy. Most auto parts places have 'em for less than $10.



 

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:lol::lol::lol: " Brilliant " :lol::lol::lol: Aprilia comes through again.
Except the pump isn't going to completely empty the bottle. To do that you will have to turn it upside down and...uh...pour it into a funnel attached to a length of plastic hose. You might as well start out with the hose and funnel. At the price of manual transmission lube I want to make sure I get every last drop in the transmission.

(Your mileage may vary.)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the input.

I saw that exact "OEM" brand pump yesterday at Autozone for $4.xx.

The funnel and tube method will also work well. I guess as you suspect you're getting close to full you just pour a little bit into the funnel until you see it leak out? You could also use an assistant to save trips to the top of the engine bay.

As far as the pump not getting it all out, you can always empty the contents of the nearly empty bottle into the half-used bottle.

Both of these methods are great. Thanks for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The easiest way I've found is to buy 4-5 feet of clear tubing. Pair the one end to a small dollar store funnel, run the tubing through the engine bay and put the other end in where the filler bolt goes... less than $5 total.

Cheaper than buying a $50 plus mityvac system.
Agreed. Of course, I already have the Mityvac system. I wasn't and wouldn't advocate for acquiring one if this was the only intended application.

For me, just the ability to do brake fluid bleeds without an assistant is worth the price.

Great simple solution on the funnel & hose. Many will already have a funnel and hose that will work. It might be a no additional cost solution.
 

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Except the pump isn't going to completely empty the bottle.
The one I have has an "extension tube" for different sized bottles. You can add a short piece of hose to the bottom of most any of them.

There is still a bit of leftover, but ya end up with a partial bottle anyway. :wink:

Nothinh ever seems to take fluid in exactly even quart increments. (Except most of us can fit 5 qts of oil in the crankcase.) :)
 

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5 spd Manual Fluid Change

Having a little problem with shift changes especially during cooler weather. We have 2 wheel drive '04 5 spd. 80,000 kms. Has anyone used synthetic trans. oil during a trans oil change and would they recommend it?
 

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I've searched...

Is there a DIY thread for the MT fluid change?

Also, how much MT fluid does the change take? - is there a need to repeat the process as with the AT fluid change?

Thanks.

I bought my 2007 Element a week ago and already put 2,000 mi on it. It is working great. But I think I will do all fluids just to be sure that it is all fresh.
 

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I use Redline MTL and find that it shifts well when cold. Apparently approved by Honda, bought my first change at an Acura dealer. Redline was expensive before and has gone up from there.

Also, it helped to bleed my clutch slave, found factory bubbles in there, clutch more solid feeling now.
 

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I still do not get the replace-the-crush-washer thing. I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles over several decades with a variety of cars that had no crush washer or the same one that came with the car. No dripping, either, just cleaned all the surfaces off before refitting the plug.

For something under pressure, like a brake line or oil line, a new crush washer makes sense. I keep a stock of them for my old motorcycle, which is choosy about them, sometimes likes copper, sometimes aluminum. BTW, crush washers can be resoftened for a second use for this kind of application. They harden when the plug or banjo bolt is tightened, but a sojourn in the oven and they'll be ready for reuse.

Changing MTF is easy. I like the pump method, but try to do it when the ground is warm. :) My trans has ~120k on the original crush washer, is on its 2nd Redline MTL infusion, does not leak one drop, ever.
 
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