as you can see, the kicker sub's magnet isn't all the much larger than oem... the rubber surround just makes it look bigger. this sub is rated for 150w RMS, so it should run very nicley off my diamond audio amp.
this weekend, im going to try and get my hands on some dynamat, and stiffen up that OEM enclosure.
as you can see.. cutting down the baffel for the ported setup isn't that easy.. but this should be good enough for my dynamat to stick to. the plan is to line the inside, and the outside of the enclosure to add stiffness to the box. also, the port will be pluged.. i haven't figured that out yet, but tomorrow is another day.
im not finished.. i have no clue how it sounds compared to stock. stock is ported, and this sub recommends sealed.. so thats why im cutting down the baffle port, and tomorrow i plan on dynamating the box inside and out.
i paid 68 bucks shipped on ebay for the sub. i wasn't able to find a JL W3 for under 160. :|
i only see "baffle cut 1-9" between the pics,then:
"as you can see.. cutting down the baffel for the ported setup isn't that easy.. but this should be good enough for my dynamat to stick to. the plan is to line the inside, and the outside of the enclosure to add stiffness to the box. also, the port will be pluged.. i haven't figured that out yet, but tomorrow is another day."
so your cutting and grinding to make a surface for the dynamat to stick to?
or is it relative to the actual fitment of the new sub?
other than the mounting holes did the new sub drop in?
is it too late to hook the Kicker to the stock amp while your there for a comparison?
the sub drops in just fine, but i dont' see the point of keeping the port baffle, if the box is going to be sealed. so cutting the baffle down, makes it easier to lay flatter pieces of dynamat inside and out.. sealed boxes are usually pretty hallow, not chambered, like horn style enclousres. so its just prep work.
umm.. running the factory amp isn't going to be possible. from honda, the OEM sub is a DVC (dual voice coil) 4 ohm sub. which wasn't ran in series, or parallel, each VC were ran separately. so, the enclosure had 4 wires. basicly 2 channels.
so, this kicker, its a 4ohm SINGLE VC sub, i can't wire it to the factory amp, nor really want to, since i have a amp bypass with the aftermarket headunit.
ok. the sound deaden'ing material i used was raammat. its 60 mill thick.. some great stuff, and the glue is very sticky. i only used it on the flat structural area's of the box, and i didn't sweat much of the corners since the plastic is most thick on those area's anyways.
also, i used about 4 oz of polyfil.
the sub is mounted with ny-lock nuts, that way they don't back off.
dont mind the green tape on the speaker wire, i still need to plug the hole where the wire goes through... but i had to get a sound test...
im using a 4 channel diamond audio amp. when im done, i will have 1 and 2 channels on the front doors, and 3/4 bridged for this 6.5" sub.
anyways, the test run, i gave it about 1/2 gain of my amp, which is about 150watts. amazing. hits VERY hard. but lacks low end bass. which is understandable for a 6" sub.
long story short, worth the time and effort, worth the 65 bucks on the sub, but the factory amp won't push it... i woudln't even try. i bet that factory amp is pushing 60w max to that sub.
if you guys are interested, before i put my SC console back in, i'll make a youtube of that little 6" beating.. it moves pretty damn good.