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Discussion Starter #1
I want to begin with what I purchased and installed, along with the photos of the interim result. I'm not happy with the brightness at all. RamblerDan made a good point. There is no illumination of the reds whatsoever.
I bought these 5mm w/built-in resistor and 3mm LED's from allelectronics.com

I didn't pay allot for them, so I don't feel cheated.
Here's the interim result:









There were no specifications given for the 5mm LED's. The 3mm LED's are rated at 1000 luminous intensity. That seemed high, since the #74 LED replacements are only rated between 200-500 luminous intensity. Bare in mind also that both the 3 and 5mm LED's have a very narrow viewing angle. In my opinion, the switches came out the best because I did this to them:




When the switch is assembled, the LED's point straight forward.

The 5mm in the main cluster also point forward, but they're simply too dim.

That is a little snippet of the tedious work involved in the switches, by far the most difficult of the bunch. I will go into detail all of the steps for this mod in due time. It would be an extremely large post to try to show everything in one post.


These are the LED's on order for My Blue Instruments REV 2.
3mm 3000mcd Blue Led
5mm 5860mcd Blue led

These should do the trick. But, it will mean more work to solder and heat shrink resistors in the wedge base, something I haven't tried yet. I was trying to make the mod easy by using LED's w/built-in resistors, but that isn't going to work.

I believe this is a new concept that I've employed. It isn't difficult, just tedious. Small parts, small assemblies, soldering, patients, and a little swearing.

I'll be back tomorrow, and I'll take each assembly step by step.
 

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I have been wanting to blue here too, but have read too many things about the limited options on the bulbs and am going to wait to see what you get in Rev 2. Want to hear how it goes.... and the swearing did not really happen if no one else is around. I have made my own in-line resistors on the LED's and yeah, a pain, but doable.

I REALLY like the odo in blue!!! I have a thing against green LCD, looks like an 80's monochrome computer screen.

You are headed in the right direction, and sorry that you have to pull it apart again!
 

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that looks good, but when I started the same thing you did only with red led's, I didn't like how the light wasn't evenly spread and failed to light everything equally, so i removed all the leds from the tach and ordered these incandescent #74 Wedge Based Bulbs from http://autolumination.com/74.htm,they are .99 cents each toward the buttom, and for the hvac controls and factory radio i ordered a sheet of red rubylith see through material and put it in place and it of the hvac controls and radio and it was way better ,worked out awesome, ill get pics tonight to show.
rubylith from here http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=3005
here's my pics sorry for the quality from my phone...
 

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Is there a blue color masking flim?

Also has anyone tried using the #74 incandescent wedged bulb in blue?

And has anyone tried the new #74 LED bulbs as stated on autolumination.com that its wider for gauges?
 

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yeah...been through it several times, then lost track and got totally confused. bearing in mind too, new products keep on coming out too...
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Image on right is old 3mm from allelectronics.com, left is new 3mm from unique-leds.com. New is slightly brighter, but much wider viewing angle.


Here's the payoff. These are the 5mm. Same vendors, left new, right old. The left LED drowns out the right LED. The old LED's with the built-in resistor are nice, but not for this application. These new 3 and 5mm LEDs should be bright enough. Now, the hard part......again.:-(
 
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
My Blue Instruments Rev. 2

Lets get some tools together. Firstly, if your soldering skills are lacking, don't bother with this mod. Mandatory tool list: 25-30 watt soldering iron, jeweler's screwdriver set, spring-loaded heat sink, needle nose pliers, #1 & #2 Phillips screwdrivers, small and medium blade screwdrivers, well lighted work area, diagonal cutters, utility knife, heat source (shrinking tubing). Optional tool list: another set of needle nose pliers, nail clippers (They trim wire leads very close.), task lamp, lighted magnifying glass or loupe (Used to verify my solder connections, I'm blind.), background music.
Required materials: solder, 1/16" & 3/32" shrink tubing.
I'm not describing dash disassembly here, it's been beat to death all through this forum. Basic techniques: The cruise and fog and hazard switches all require disassembly. You will see tiny tabs, use your jeweler's screwdriver very gingerly. Use 1/16" shrink tubing to isolate the leads. Before you bend the LED leads, determine polarity of the tiny PCB contacts (I've done that for you, but best double check).




Basic Idea: Disregard the gray post from the HVAC unit. Photo depicting soldering technique using heat sink.






The 5mm won't fit through the hole. Put the leads through the hole first, then wrap the leads. Remember the -, before you bend it.


Some adjustment for max illumination.


In Rev 1, I used a 3mm led. Positively no illumination of the hazard triangle. In Rev 2, I used a 5mm but not great illumination either. This is allot of time and effort wasted. Stick with the incandescent, or remove the thick red paint from the inside of the triangle lens.
 
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