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Discussion Starter #1
OK so it's not the most tech mod. But it seems to be the 1st mod we E owners have to do.:grin:



I took out the resonator. [email protected] 10m bolts holding it in. 1 3/8 for a ground wire attached to the body, 10m wrench to loosen the battery to move a touch to get out resonator.

Reasons why...

1. More pep.
2. Wanted to try an squeeze out a few more mpg in these hot Florida summers with the AC on.
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Results noticed in first drive...
A lot more pep and get up and go. The E is quicker for sure.

The other test will be mpg. My tank is at exactly 1/2 full (or 1/2 empty, depending on how you see things) with the trip at 108.7mi.
We do not have any hwy's here on the beach, so this is going to be around beach driving test. with AC on.
 

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you should drop in a K&N filter, cut the fins off from the filter box, get cheap tubing from hardware store to route that stubby tube down to the fender.
 

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I looked mine over after seeing all this talk about removing the resonator. It doesn't seem to restrict airflow at all. The air still can flow directly past it to the filter box. Maybe people are mistaking a little more noise for more performance.
 

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Most resonators have a dual function. They can help reduce intake noise but also create a helmholtz resonator. This is a GOOD thing for performance and can actually provide a slight hump at a particular frequency.

I think it's funny that people remove them and then wonder why their whp numbers actually dropped many times. Don't let your ears fool you, louder doesn't mean faster.

I know what I'm saying might be foreign to some, but this is something myself and many others learned years ago when getting into real technical things with performances on B18C engines. The same physics will apply here.

on a rsx type S doing this same mod lowers power under 4k rpm and raises it over 4k rpm but in most cases hp and torque aside you will get more noise and like an extra mpg or 2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance

most aftermarket intakes that have multiple pipe sizes are tuned for this reason. pipes that are just say 3" end to end are just that a pipe no tuning
 

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I had my resonator off for about 4k miles. with the oem filter.

I have since replaced it and added a K&N filter. and I am pleased with the performance and sound.

when it is more available. I will be replacing my OEM airbox and tube with a 2012 civic si OEM setup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So racerc2000...Do you still have your Res off?

I just did a ram intake on my Ford Truck with a sweet mod. I think I'm going to try the same thing in my E. It will remove the stock air box and go from MAF to pipe to cone filter. After reading your last 2 posts, I'm going to experiment with different pipe sizes for more velocity> Like a 3" filter, to a 2" or so to the MAF? or vise versa?

And input on that idea?
 

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I reinstalled my res a few days ago. and after 4k miles it felt alil peppier off the line.

as for ram air. are you making a new pipe section to install your maf in? or are you cutting it off the stock box?

just make sure the maf area is the same diameter as stock for atleast 2" in front and behind it.

from the TB to the maf for best performance try to get a nice taper between the 2 sizes. if you use 3" pipe for the rest after the maf try installing a 3.5 or 4" pipe over one section (it would require welding or other fab work) expand a piece of the 3" to mate up to the larger pipe. insert another piece of smaller pipe into the larger from the other end. to about 1" from bottoming out

when welded up on the outside it just looks like a larger section but infact its a air pocket for the tuning. make sure the air doesnt flow into it. so turn it in such a way that to enter air has to do a Uturn to enter. this inturn increases velocity and on high need times it can smooth out your air flow when you first floor it by storing more air for when the throttle plate is first opened.

like this.

also on tight bends you can up the pipe size to not restrict airflow over the strait sections.
 

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well making your car more efficient and making more power are similar but its easy to fly right past the efficient part.
and go strait for max power.

I had a b18c I tuned for max power. for the hell of it it looked great on paper and in dyno charts but....

you couldnt leave a light under 3k rpm or you stall lol

besides these custom mods. a K&N OE replacement filter ( suggest installing a filter minder) and maybe removing the resonator and adding a pipe into the fender would be the best basic mods

I like building my own mods and doing R&D so if this helps some of the others around here then it was worth posting :)

but with most mods its easy to over do it. like exhaust. too big and you lose low end power. and lose fuel economy cuz you need that power
too small and you lose top end but gain in economy. so its all finding the happy medium.
 

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Wimpy first mods!

Ok I'm a piano player, so I'm not into 440 Hemis and such.
First I got the K&N drop in filter - that was easy, didn't break anything.
Then I got intense, I actually glued my Elemat pieces in place! Except for one round one for the cup -- I put toll and meter change in that one and just lay the round Elemat on top - looks like an empty cup holder, punks can't see a bunch of quarters underneath!
Damn - now I told everyone! :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wouldn't that mod bypass filtration?
Looks like I forgot to add something huh?

I think I will stop just short of the fender well to add a filter. Like this. I just did this on my 2000 Ford Ranger today. Its a V6 4.0. Sounds good and just needed that extra umph for my towing.

I'm going to do the same in the E
 

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well I dont know how well that will work on an element. most people running SRI intakes with the MAF have issues with cel lights and are forced to run in CAI mode.

I believe its the turbulence from direct air flow and honda sensors being sensitive. your ford had a screen on the maf correct?

well it couldnt hurt as a trial and error and that airbox cover is only 20$ to replace.

oh on a side note. we use the same air filter and airbox top as the 8th gen civic SI
so by picking up the bottom you can easily route air to the front for ram air.

OEM

SI


 

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Second Mod

OK so it's not the most tech mod. But it seems to be the 1st mod we E owners have to do.:grin:




I took out the resonator. [email protected] 10m bolts holding it in. 1 3/8 for a ground wire attached to the body, 10m wrench to loosen the battery to move a touch to get out resonator.

Reasons why...

1. More pep.
2. Wanted to try an squeeze out a few more mpg in these hot Florida summers with the AC on.
----------------

Results noticed in first drive...
A lot more pep and get up and go. The E is quicker for sure.

The other test will be mpg. My tank is at exactly 1/2 full (or 1/2 empty, depending on how you see things) with the trip at 108.7mi.
We do not have any hwy's here on the beach, so this is going to be around beach driving test. with AC on.

Congradulations! You just turned your cold air intake into a warm air intake (bad). Try this: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63996
 

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