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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tired of having to reprogram/restart my portable nav unit each time I restarted the E, I was looking for an easy way to mod the front accessory outlet to be constantly hot. I also had a few other parameters:

1. Front outlet always hot
2. Rear outlet on only with ignition switched to ON or ACC
3. Both outlets fused for 15 amps
4. No Add-A-Circuit or running additional positive leads from battery
5. Easily reversible to stock

Here’s what I’ve come up with. Images are in pdf format; I did that to preserve the details. First illustration is the stock circuit diagram for the front and rear power outlets.

Second is the diagram for Epod’s rear outlet always on mod, by jumpering the relay socket. Relay is, of course, removed for this mod.

Third is my mod. Again, relay is removed to do the mod. I cut the yellow/white wire running to the front power outlet, spliced on two leads, and attached the lead coming from the front power outlet to the hot side of the relay socket (the side coming from fuse #2). That makes the front outlet always hot.

I then ran the other lead from the yel/wht wire (the one coming from fuse #18 ) to the rear outlet side of the relay socket, making the rear outlet now controlled by the ignition switch (powered when ignition is ON or ACC).

Both leads are attached to the same two socket connectors Epod used in his mod. To reverse the mod back to stock, all I have to do is remove the two leads, jumper them together with a double female connector, and replace the relay.

(Added detail)

In order to keep you from having to figure out which contact is which on the relay socket, I've figured it out for you:

As seen from the top, looking down, the socket has four contacts:

The two towards the front of the vehicle look like this:
_ a
_ b

The two towards the rear of the vehicle look like this:

c d
| |

You want to use the two towards the front of the vehicle. The frontmost contact (a) is the hot side, and you use this contact to connect to the yellow/white wire going to the front outlet.

The rearmost contact of the two (b) is the side which provides power to the rear outlet. Use this contact for the other yel/wht wire which comes from the ignition switch.

And if anybody asks I'll tell you how to remove the front accessory outlet. It was impossible to do this mod without removing it. You need a special six dollar tool.
 

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Come on guys (and gals).... this looks pretty good!! 92 views and no comments or changes????

FWIW - The front powerlet always on makes more sense (to me) than the rear but then again in a perfect world BOTH would be hot all the time.

I'm assuming the lack of negative (no pun intended) responses indicates this will work without frying anything. Thanks, BC246T for your diagrams - pics would round out the package nicely.

 

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Thanks for the info...I'm about to install an additional outlet and am making it hot on all the time. Got some good ideas from you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
txbxdrvr said:
Come on guys (and gals).... this looks pretty good!! 92 views and no comments or changes????
Thanks for the comment - I was beginning to think I was being boycotted!

I think you're right - my mod isn't super exciting, and won't cause your E to explode.

Maybe if I installed the mod I had on my '73 VW beetle, a driver's relief tube which exited through the floor, I could stir up some excitement.
 

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OK heres my atta boy and well done!

I did download the pdfs for future reference.

Thats funny about the relief tube you put in your bug. I did that once to a rusted out Datsun 210 I owned.
 

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So... to make both outlets hot all the time you would do something like this, correct??? Of course you'd need to pay attention to the total load for BOTH outlets and make sure they didn't exceed the 15 amp limit since there's only one fuse now. Note: The relay IS REMOVED AS NOTED ABOVE.

HOT OUTLETS 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, that would accomplish what you say.

txbxdrvr said:
So... to make both outlets hot all the time you would do something like this, correct??? Of course you'd need to pay attention to the total load for BOTH outlets and make sure they didn't exceed the 15 amp limit since there's only one fuse now. Note: The relay IS REMOVED AS NOTED ABOVE.

View attachment 36811
 

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txbxdrvr said:
So... to make both outlets hot all the time
If you didn't want to cut and splice the vehicle's harness, and want both outlets to be hot at all times, remove fuse 18 and leave it out. Remove the relay. Make yourself a small wye jumper with spade terminals that will fit into the relay connector terminals and jump the terminal protected by fuse #2 to each of the other terminals that are connected to the power outlets - only the relay connector terminal that is connected to ground is left open (un-jumpered). Fuse #2, which is hot at all times, will be the circuit protector for both outlets. Remember, fuses protect the wiring, NOT the load. If you were going to be using high wattage devices at both outlets at the same time, you'd be better off leaving the circuit as designed or factor in added fuses and a heavier gauge feed wire, but if you use either outlet individually, the #2 15A fuse should be fine.
 

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Both Are Hot Now!!!

Big Thanks, Honda Tech.... I always seem to complicate things. For those interested in having BOTH outlets always on here is how I did it using HT's method.

The pigtail harness doesn't have to be fancy - I used crimp lugs that I had laying around and a wire nut. No soldering needed. The heatshrink tubing was used because my spade lugs were uninsulated.

The different color wire was only used for clarity - you can use any color you want. I used 16-18 gage wire and that was huge compared to the wire gage on the factory harness. The two orange wired spades had some "ears" that I ground off as other posts show. The yellow spade had to be made much narrower than the orange one - look at the relay to see what I mean. The pigtail looks like this.....

Powerlet Jumper.JPG




The installation is straight forward... the two orange wires plug into the two slots furthest away (flat side of spade lug faces you). The yellow (narrowed) spade lug had to go to the "hot" side of the relay energizer circuit - NOT the ground side. A simple multimeter check confirmed the slot on the left is the proper connection point for the yellow wire. Nothing is used in the remaining "grounded" slot. Final install should look something like this....

Powerlet Install.JPG

A couple of final notes..... Be sure to remove the #18 fuse from the interior fuse box - consult the owners manual for location and access. Also, these pictures were for an automatic transmission vehicle - the manual transmission will have a slightly different relay location and possible set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well done, txbxdrvr, but you may want to remind everyone that BOTH outlets are now being powered through ONE 15-amp fuse (#2).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You know, txbxdrvr, I've been studying the wiring diagram, and I believe if you DO NOT remove fuse #18, then both the front and rear outlets, always on, share one 15 amp fuse when the ignition is off, but share TWO 15 amp fuses when the ignition switch is ON or ACC.
 

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Need help with SC install

So my Dad just got his 08 RBM SC and i tried to do this on his like i have done it on mine and a friends, but it did not work. Has anyone else tried this on their SC? Is their something else i have to do?

I have a feeling it is different because of the two 12v already in there. Any help would be great. Thanks!
 

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Power outlet... non keyed

I'm sure it's been discussed here before but I can't find it. Is there a easy fix to make the power outlet on the dash stay on all the time instead when the key is turned on?
 

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I'm sure it's been discussed here before but I can't find it. Is there a easy fix to make the power outlet on the dash stay on all the time instead when the key is turned on?
Moved you post into here, this should answer your questions.
 
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