[nuckleheadnate]

About a week ago, I had dinner with my wife and when I went outside to start my '05 Element, it wouldn't turn. I jumped it about an hour later and drove home (15 miles) almost fine. During that drive, if I rolled the windows up, the lights dimmed. If I held the windows up, the car would get really sluggish and the dashboard lights would come on.

The next morning, nothing. I couldn't even jump it. My dad & I replaced the alternator this past weekend and jumped it. We were able to drive about five miles until everything shut down again. We towed it back and tried to jump it several times, but to no avail.

My dad works at the East Liberty Honda plant and has a friend who worked at the Service Center. He suggested we try to clamp the battery terminals together (they barely reached each other, so I used copper to complete the circuit. This was supposed to reset the system. I did that for about half an hour and tried jumping it again, but nothing. I've taken the old alternator (the one removed) to Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone and even a dealer, but none could test it because they didn't have the proper brackets. As I type, AAP is testing my battery.

I've read on other threads that ELDs cost only $35ish, but the dealer told me $245 and that was the only place I could find it.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bowzer]

You didn't mention this in your info so have to ask: Have you replaced or load tested the battery? Everything you describe could be caused by a bad battery.

 

[ramblerdan]

Yes, no need to replace the alternator before testing the battery. If the battery in that '05 was original, it's time for a new one. Then see where things stand.

As for the ELD, it is part #38255-S5A-003, price $20–$30

See this how-to

 

[Yoda E SC]

it sounds to me like you are having battery issues, how old is it?

 

[nuckleheadnate]

I just dropped it off to be tested. They had to charge it first, so they are going to let me know in an hour or so. I'm hoping this is the problem.

If the battery is the problem, do I just throw a new one in and everything's great? Or is there a certain way to get everything in sync again?

I know my post must sound completely amateur, but I'm not very auto-savvy.

 

[Bowzer]

You'll need to enter your radio code and re-do the presets for stations...then you're pretty much set.

 

[nuckleheadnate]

Great! Well hopefully I will be able to post positive results this evening.

 

[ramblerdan]

If you filled in your profile, we wouldn't have to guess whether you have an EX (thus a radio with anti-theft code).

 

[Yoda E SC]

You'll need to enter your radio code and re-do the presets for stations...then you're pretty much set.

and hold the auto switch down the whole time you are rolling the window up/down/up again for the driver auto window feature to work again.

 

[nuckleheadnate]

Got the battery back. It's good. 396/410

I put it in the E and the remote lock worked. E dinged when I got in and pit keys in the ignition. When I turned the key, nothing again. Couple lights flashed that's it. No more dings from E. I removed the battery terminal and immediately replaced. Now stuff works again... Until I turn the key.

 

[in2steam]

Sounds like a bad ground(frame) or other connection since you removed the alternator thats were I would start, and because you could not get it to jump start after you did that.

Chris

 

[timmy2]

Many Many years agoooo

Many years ago, I had a problem like this - it turned out I had a short in a wire in the dash - it had nothing to do with the alternator or battery.

As far as the battery goes - I doubt it is the problem - even up here in Minnesota in the coldest weather batteries don't die that way.

While you may feel better with a new battery - I would find the cause first.

 

[94eg]

Well as far as I'm aware, the ELD and Alternator have nothing to do with starting the car. When the car is first switched on, the Alternator is set to low-charge mode to reduce the strain on the starter. Once the engine starts up, it then switches to normal charge mode and the ELD begins to function.

Still sounds like a bad battery, or perhaps a bad ground...

 

[ApriliaGuy]

Still sounds like a bad battery, or perhaps a bad ground...

Yup. That bettery (or maybe ground/connection) don't seem right. ;-)

I'd try another place/tester.

 

[1fastvx]

Still sounds like a dead battery. I would try another battery or buy a new one. Also, why did you replace the alternator?

John

 

[nuckleheadnate]

Josie II back to life

Update:
I got it back and I’m driving it. It turned out to be the battery after all. It tested great once during this process, but then never again. They took the cell and shook it and said after that they couldn’t get a reading, which means something inside the cell was broken. They said its rare, but it has happened to others there before.

More good news: I had to put the radio code in, but it actually saved my presets.

 

[Bowzer]

I've had a couple of batteries do that...break in the lead plates.

And by the way: THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING AN UPDATE ON THE RESOLUTION!

Congrats on being back on the road little pain and anguish.

 

[Americonium]

That EXACT problem happened to me, but I check the voltage at the battery, it read 8.5 volts, so after I replace it with this....

And now I bet I could start er up in -40C (or -40F)... Haha

 

[nuckleheadnate]

I've had a couple of batteries do that...break in the lead plates.

And by the way: THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING AN UPDATE ON THE RESOLUTION!

Congrats on being back on the road little pain and anguish.

lead plates.. that was it. glad to be have it back instead of driving my sister-in-law's toyota. ha!