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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to get the rear rotors off. I did the front rotors no problem. Is there some trick due to the emergency brake being on the inside of the rotor. Any tips would be great the Element is up on the jack stands and I would really like to get them changed out today.

Thanks
mcb
 

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should be same as fronts,,make sure your emergency brake is off,,,its probably very rusty..give it a few good hits with a big hammer....good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice but something is terribly wrong with the E-brake I disconnected the brake cables under the center console to get the E-brake shoe to collapse down as much as possible and no luck. I whacked it pretty good with a happer to loosen things up. I even used some M8 bolts to push it off and the only thing that happened were two strange rivets on the back of the dust shield popped out and a spring clip of sometype fell out on the ground. At that point is was clear the emergency brake pad shoes were canting and locking into the rotor. Likely caused by a heavy build up of rust. I left that side of the E-brake cable disconnected and put everything back together. I pretty sure it will make it to the dealer where I will let them do the rear brakes and repair that E-brake.

Thanks again
 

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i know its to late now,,but a little trick,,if you think the e-brake pad shoes are sticking,,pull and release the e-brake handle a few times,,most of the time this will release the shoes...
 

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Did you back off on the star adjusters all the way for the emergency brake. This will retract the brake shoes to there smallest diameter and allow you to remove the rotor. FYI, you rotate the rotor to put the removable rubber plug at the six o'clock position to access the star wheel adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep did that too. I first lossened the star adjuster and then when the rotor would not come off I cycled the E-brake a few time and then disconnected the cables under the center console. I will be interested to see what the dealer finds in that rotor when they finally get it off.

When I drove the M8 bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor to push the rotor off you could just barely see, between the rotor and the dust sheildm the E-brake shoes getting canted. The tops, at the pivot would start to pull out of the rotor but the middle and lowers were still caught in the rotor. The more I screwed the bolts in the more they twisted and the harder they would grab the rotor. I couldn't get anything in the gap between rotor and hub or through the star nut access hole that would make them pop free of the rotor.

All in all a very frustrating day. I will let you guys know what the dealer finds when they finally get the rotors off. Thanks for all the help.

mcb
 

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I wasn't quite ready to give up and got to the dealer, so I dug around on the internet last night and found the diagram for a CR-V rear brake assembly, couldn't find one for an Element anywhere. I had heard that the CR-V uses many of the same drive components and figured I might get luck with the brake diagram and I did.



If you look at the image above I removed removed nut (18) and then the two screws(20) This let the entire E-brake assembly and rotor move out a about 3/4 of an inch. The E-brake then hit the back side of the hub inside the rotor but that extra room let me get in behind the rotor and help the shoes out. I still have to get two new retainer pins (17) from the dealer this week to reassemble everything, but at least I can drive it minus the left rear E-Brake. I simply took out all the E-brake parts and put everything else back together. Just won't be able to park on any hills till its fixed. ;-)

Hope this post might help someone else that gets into this bind.

Later
mcb
 

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Off topic. I just looked at my rear rotors and I noticed that mine's got disc brake pads and not drum brakes. I'm confused since I have read some DIY here that the rear brakes are drum brakes and just follow the CRV how change rotors. Are there mix drum and disc brakes for the rear with our E's?

mcb, are you sure your rear brakes are drum brakes based on your last post or is it disc brakes?
 

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Rust

There is a ring of rust (see it from my 07 rotors) that is stopping the rotor. Just work it back and forth beating them off from side to side. I assume you took out the retaining screws... Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Off topic. I just looked at my rear rotors and I noticed that mine's got disc brake pads and not drum brakes. I'm confused since I have read some DIY here that the rear brakes are drum brakes and just follow the CRV how change rotors. Are there mix drum and disc brakes for the rear with our E's?

mcb, are you sure your rear brakes are drum brakes based on your last post or is it disc brakes?
The Element has rear disk brakes for normal use but the E-brake (Emergency Brake AKA parking brake) is a cable actuated drum brake that is inside the hub of the rotor.

Yes the problem was a very heavy ring of rust on the inside of the rotor behind the E-brake that was not allowing it to come past the E-brake shoes (3). What made mine so bad was the two retaining clips (17) in the above diagram had broken when I first tried to get the rotor off allowing the shoes to move away from the dust shield. The top of the shoes were retained by the large pin (6) but the rest of the sides and bottom of the assembly would try to move out with the disk and this would case the shoes to bind up badly in the rotor.

On the other side the rust was apparently not as bad and I had a better idea of what I was getting into so I was able to wiggle and work the other side off without any major issues. I used lots of "Rust Eater" on the inside of the rotor and took my time working it by hand rather than using the M8 bolts in the rim to drive it off. It took a few minutes of wiggling but I was eventually able to work it off with out a problem.

mcb
 

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Opinions on rust prevention applied to the rear rotor.

Seems this is a common problem. I have applied the E-brake and run the Element very slowly, in the driveway, to remove annoying grinding I heard when applying the brake. Worked great for 1 day. A thought would be to apply hi-temp paint to the single 90 degree inner edge of the rotor that seems prone to building up a ridge of rust. Not the entire contact surface for the E-brake shoes, just that one edge. The E-brake used as a park brake would still function fine, and the contact surface would not be compromised with paint (except that ridge) if used in an emergency.

Hi-temp paint could be used on a few other non-braking surfaces, as it seems corrosion likes to live in the E-brake assembly.

Now,this is not a desirable work around, but Honda has left us with this issue. I'm tossing this idea out as a possible longer term fix to an unfortunate design consequence that should not impact safety or functionality.

Any thoughts on this?
 

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The Element has rear disk brakes for normal use but the E-brake (Emergency Brake AKA parking brake) is a cable actuated drum brake that is inside the hub of the rotor.

mcb
Thank you for clearing my confusion. I have never done the rear rotor replacement yet and I see what you mean. This will surely help me in the near future when I have to replace them. BTW, when I looked at my brake pads last night, it was down to the wire. Doing my brake pad replacement in the next 60 min. Thanks for the info.
 

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Sorry I didn't see this post earlier!

There is a 'trick' to getting the rear rotors off...
Do NOT hit it with a hammer, as this may cause the E springs to come loose, and will cause you more work than anything to get them back on. You don't need to loosen off the E brake at all. Make sure you remove the 2 phillips screws.
(This has been posted before, so a search would have brought up this reply)

There are 2 8mm bolt holes in the face of the rotor. Insert 2 bolts, and slowly, and alternately, thread the bolts in. This will 'pull' the rotor off.
Once you replace the rotor, you may have to tighten up the E brake to seat properly, but you don't need to loosen them to get the rotors off.
 

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Thanks for the advice but something is terribly wrong with the E-brake I disconnected the brake cables under the center console to get the E-brake shoe to collapse down as much as possible and no luck. I whacked it pretty good with a happer to loosen things up. I even used some M8 bolts to push it off and the only thing that happened were two strange rivets on the back of the dust shield popped out and a spring clip of sometype fell out on the ground. At that point is was clear the emergency brake pad shoes were canting and locking into the rotor. Likely caused by a heavy build up of rust. I left that side of the E-brake cable disconnected and put everything back together. I pretty sure it will make it to the dealer where I will let them do the rear brakes and repair that E-brake.

Thanks again
This is what happens when you hit it with a hammer...
These are the spring clip retaining pins. They go in from the back, and hold the spring clips in place. I had to replace one side, because I hit it with a hammer. Finally used the bolts, and it came off, eventually...
I used only the bolts on the other side, and it came off no problems.
The only reason for it not to come off would be if you forgot to remove the phillips screws. The bolts are a simple and sure method to remove the rotors. Even badly seized rotors will come off. Just do a turn at a time, alternating from one bolt to the other. They push against the hub, and the rotor will come off.
 

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Need help with rear brakes!! PLEASE!!

Trying to put new pads and rotors on rear of my 05' E. Can't get old rotors off. Seem to be hanging up on the drum brake. Is the drum for the parking brake only? Tried using jacking bolts. Tried loosing the drum brake with "star" adjuster, is there a special tool to do this? When I tried to jack the rotor off 2 small metal pin broke and fell off of the backing plate. I believe these hold the drum pads to the backing plate? Where can I get these? Honda dealer only? Please Help! Thanks!
 

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Welcome, Riverrunner.

Posts merged. Search phrase "rear brakes" returns this thread. See posts above.

Service manual:
H&A (site sponsor)
Helm Inc.

More on adjusting the parking brake here.

Also note that it's common for rotors to get stuck on the hub, and the Phillips heads in the screws holding the rotor to the hub (use penetrating oil and an impact driver on these) sometimes strip and have to be drilled out.
 

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Trying to put new pads and rotors on rear of my 05' E. Can't get old rotors off. Seem to be hanging up on the drum brake. Is the drum for the parking brake only? Tried using jacking bolts. Tried loosing the drum brake with "star" adjuster, is there a special tool to do this? When I tried to jack the rotor off 2 small metal pin broke and fell off of the backing plate. I believe these hold the drum pads to the backing plate? Where can I get these? Honda dealer only? Please Help! Thanks!
Hello and welcome riverrunner...
Yes, your uestion has been answered in the post yours has been combined with...

The pins that came out is likely #17 on Ramblerdan's post above yours, and you should be able to get the hold down kit from most auto parts stores. Individual parts, and the whole kits are available from dealerships, but not all of them carry them, so they may have to be ordered (unless you can convince them to remove them from a box of shoes, since they come with the new set from the dealer)

A good set of easy outs works too if the Phillips screws start to strip...
 

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Sorry I didn't see this post earlier!

There is a 'trick' to getting the rear rotors off...


There are 2 8mm bolt holes in the face of the rotor. Insert 2 bolts, and slowly, and alternately, thread the bolts in. This will 'pull' the rotor off.
Once you replace the rotor, you may have to tighten up the E brake to seat properly, but you don't need to loosen them to get the rotors off.
Awesome help, thanks!
 

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It never ceases to amaze me, how people can spent $20K+ on a vehicle and $500+ on a set of replacement tires without batting an eye, but are unwilling to invest the cost of two fill-ups on a Honda Service Manual before attempting to service the safety systems of that vehicle.


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Anyone can line up the first two holes. Fewer can line up the last two.
Fewer can finish the job with no left over parts. The few who consistently have
better results after their work are mechanics.
 
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