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Discussion Starter #1
Last summer my a/c system had a leak. It was late in the summer so I just refilled it rather than look for the leak. That lasted a week. A friend suggested I try interdynamics super seal which will even seal leaks in metal components. So I left him put it in my system and then right afterwards he fill it with refridgerant. I made it through the summer. During the winter I tried to cycle the system by turning it on. The compressor came on and after about 10 min it shut down. I assume all the refrigerant leaked out. So I left it alone til now. Last night, with the system not charge at all, I tried to charge it. It took barely half a can and was already at 60psi! The compressor never name on. It leads me to believe that air got into the system and solidified the leak sealer somewhere in the line between the low side port and the compressor. Is this a correct assumption? Some feedback asap would be great cuz it's getting hot and muggy here in NJ and I got a one year old who is sweating in the back. Also, is there anyway to correct rather than just pulling the whole thing apart and find where it is blocked or replacing he line/hose that is blocked?
 

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A/c

Hi,

I am not an HVAC tech, but offer my limited experience. I have had (in other vehicles) the system checked for leaks by seeing if it they hold a nitrogen charge. Usually after a week, if the pressure is maintained, the system is considered to be sealed. Second, there are quite a number of fine orifice components that can get plugged and the system fails. The sealants are not the first choice to a long and happy A/C system. If the system has had a leak for some time, the air dryer components are considered to be spoiled/contaminated and need replacement.

My current trustworthy mechanic has said to me he does not ever quote under $500 before he starts and A/C job so that he does not confuse or mislead his customers. And, he mentioned to me that going to $1500 is easy.

Your experience may be very different.
 

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Given the history with the leak and the leak stop that was added, before you start replacing things randomly I would take it to a shop and have someone put gauges on it. It might be as simple as the low pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I hit the A/C button this afternoon to see what would happen and the condersor fan came on but it didn't seem like the compressor did and there was no cold air. Oh well, I going to see mechanic in the morning because last night I wasnt even getting the fan to come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mechanic says compressor is no good. I trust h because I have been going to him for years. I just wondering if I should check anything myself before telling him to replace compressor. I am petty handy withy car so if it is easy maybe I can put it in myself?
 

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Ask your mechanic, but I would consider replacing the dryer and the orifice tube. Just my two cents.
 

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Have you tried turning the compressor by hand once the belt is off? It could be something else if it turns smoothly. I know there is a pressure switch that will prevent the comp from starting.
 

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The compressor will spin without a belt because the clutch will not be engaged. To see if the clutch engages/disengages, turn the A/C on/off and listen for the "Click". If the clutch click's then at least you know you don't have an electrical issues. With the clutch engaged and the belt off, then try to turn the compressor.
 

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I did mean the low pressure switch.

I had to replace the field coil on mine because it wasn't engaing. I think I was able to turn the compressor by grabbing the clutch face plate. If the field coil works and it's powered, you can use the pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so I am just replacing the compressor for now. I am doing the work myself. I know once installed that the system has to be vacuumed. Just need to know what PAG oil to us and how much. I am guessing it is probably PAG 46 and I has to be about 2-3 oz?
 

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AC Problem

When you lose R134A freon, you likely lose refrigerant oil as well. Compressors fail because many people just add freon, and not oil. With the old R12 systems, when you lost oil there was usually an oily spot. The new refrigerant oils, PAG or Ester, usually leave no trace as they dissapate.
 

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Figured I would post my issue in the most recent A/C issue thread rather than starting my own thread.

Problem: I have used my AC randomly over the winter here in TX. So its not like it has been 100% off over the past 4 months or anything. Randomly 3 days ago I turned on my AC and got nothing but luke warm air. It blows hard, but just not cool. As I was driving down the road I continued to play with the knobs and magically ice cold air started flowing. Yesterday I had the same issue. Seemed to take a few more minutes to get cold air finally flowing. Today I am having the same issue but my trip was too short to get it working. At this point I am assuming that I have a legitimate issue.

2007 Honda Element SC (Auto)
111K miles

I am the original owner. I have never had any AC issues in the past. I havent performed a single troubleshooting step other than what I described above. I plan on reading my official service manual tonight when I get home. Also I will try to check the fuse and relay. Without reading the manual I am not sure how to check the AC Clutch or Coil or anything else at this point.

Is there any other basic steps I could take before taking it in for a diagnostics? I will check in with a status update by this weekend. Thanks.
 

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> I continued to play with the knobs and magically ice cold air started flowing

Sounds to me like a blend door isn't operating consistently. I'd open the glovebox and watch the mechanism work while turning the mode to and from a/c. Could be something as simple as gummed-up gears, or a bad electrical connection to a motor.
 

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> I continued to play with the knobs and magically ice cold air started flowing
Sounds to me like a blend door isn't operating consistently. I'd open the glovebox and watch the mechanism work while turning the mode to and from a/c. Could be something as simple as gummed up gears, or a bad electrical connection to a motor.
I did just swap out my cabin air filters 2-3 weeks ago. Ill check that area too.
 

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I still haven't checked anything, but yesterday the cold air has completely ceased to exist. The air coming out actually felt warmer than the outside air.

I will check a few things this weekend and report any findings...
 

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Did not receive any DCT codes after performing the ac/heater self diagnostic on page 21-8.

This leads me to believe its a refrigerant oil leak.
 

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Gunn Honda San Antonio. 3 hours.

Well, turns out it was a bad relay. They replaced the relay and refilled with dyed freon to check for any future leaks.

They told me that the bad relay was not engaging/disengaging the clutch from the compressor which was causing the compressor to release excess freon which is why my system was low on freon.

After all is said and done, $350. I think they overcharged, but that comes with the territory of going to a dealership.

I am not sure if the relay is under the steering wheel area or the hood. I hope this helps someone in the future.
 
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