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Discussion Starter #1
Back in June, I think, at 96k miles, I reported that I replaced my front pads and rotors. I used NAPA rotors and lifetime pads. Well I'm now at 107k miles. One or both rotors warped so bad the car was very shaky to stop from highway speeds. I'm not sure why, but the pad/rotor combination sucked.

I took all the wheels off and set up my dial indicator. Of course I could only check the runout on the outside surface due to the backing plate. I couln't measure any noticable runout.

I had the nearly new rotors turned. Only one of the rotors needed a second pass on the inside surface. Perhaps that was the problem surface. I used factory Honda pads this time, and all is well.

If anybody is looking for new pads or rotors, I'd stay away from the NAPA lifetime pads and rotor combination.
 

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Usually the lifetime pads a so hard that they will ether warp the rotors or put hot spots witch will also give you a rumbling or shaking when you brake. The factory Honda pads are Ceramic. I just got aftermarket rotors and pads and I don't have any vibration but already see a lot of brake dust. I will also get the factory nest time.:)
 

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Since Napa has 3 tiers of rotors can you help future rotor buyers out by listing the model number you had? The mids have never given me much probems.

Thanks Man
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no reciept

I through my reciept away, so I don't have the part no's. Also, no warranty without a reciept. RATS!
 

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I don't get what people don't understand. There is NO such thing as lifetime brake pads. They are SUPPOSED to wear when you use the brake. Where is the common sense anymore? I agree that the Honda pads are the way to go. They are part ceramic and the dust is less.
 

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When you experience harsh shaking under braking there is one thing to try before throwing more money at the situation:

RE-BED THE PADS!!!

The bedding procedure is the most commonly overlooked step of any brake pad change. Just follow this procedure:

- Make a series of 5-7 medium pressure stops from 45-5 mph (don't actually stop)
- Cool-down by driveing back & forth on an open road without using brakes for 5-8 minutes
- Make a series of 5-7 high pressure stops from 55-5mph (don't actually stop)
- When you smell burning brake pads your done
- Do another 5-7 minute cool-down drive

The whole idea is that you lay down a nice even coating of pad material on the rotors. If the pads deposit material unevenly, the rotors will always shake. Uneven deposits are usually the result of making a high-speed heavy stop and then keeping the vehicle motionless at a stop light (freeway off ramp). The pad material gets baked onto one section of rotor as you wait at the light. Re-bedding the pads usually cures this (unless it IS a runout problem)...
 
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