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2004 Element EX-S AWD 6MT = “Zippy”
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The pivot of the clutch pedal is a likely source for squeak... it's not even really the "clutch" system at that point yet...
I have found that my foot position on the clutch pedal can increase or decrease noise based on how far from center of pedal I'm torqueing it with my foot...
Zippy is BAD right now... seems even worse in higher humidity... I just turn up the radio.. 🤷‍♂️

For my Z3, I actually bought new aftermarket bushing in delrin, still had squeak, replaced again with BRASS... all gone.

I can't remember why, it's been a while since I was upside down under the dash, but I vaguely recall an easy "brass bushing replacement" wasn't possible with the Honda Element design... <sigh>

Please correct me if that's incorrect, I'll be the next purchaser...
Brad
 
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
After a quick inspection of the hydraulic system, I think I’m gonna replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. The fluid is dark grey/murky. The master cylinder looks corroded on the inside of firewall by the clutch pedal.

Looks like a pretty easy fix. Seems the battery and airbox gotta come out to get full access. Might tackle it this weekend if my local auto parts store carries the parts I need.

My only worry is bleeding the line

Any tips?

UPDATE: placed an online order at my local autozone for pickup today. New slave cylinder, master and dot 4 brake fluid

Got my hands full tomorrow lol. Front rotors and pads, rear sway bar links and then the slave/master cylinders. Probably start off the with clutch. That’s gonna be the hardest/most time consuming.
 

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After a quick inspection of the hydraulic system, I think I’m gonna replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. The fluid is dark grey/murky. The master cylinder looks corroded on the inside of firewall by the clutch pedal.

Looks like a pretty easy fix. Seems the battery and airbox gotta come out to get full access. Might tackle it this weekend if my local auto parts store carries the parts I need.

My only worry is bleeding the line

Any tips?

UPDATE: placed an online order at my local autozone for pickup today. New slave cylinder, master and dot 4 brake fluid

Got my hands full tomorrow lol. Front rotors and pads, rear sway bar links and then the slave/master cylinders. Probably start off the with clutch. That’s gonna be the hardest/most time consuming.
Hey congrats ! I am in Columbia County NY and our DMV is open everyday ! I am there usually at least once week
for work. Just have to get in line at 8 to be close to first in, they open at 9 . Good luck !
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Hey congrats ! I am in Columbia County NY and our DMV is open everyday ! I am there usually at least once week
for work. Just have to get in line at 8 to be close to first in, they open at 9 . Good luck !
Thank you. I’m friends with the Orange County Clerk so she was able to get me in sooner. Car has been on the road a week tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Saturday I did the slave and master cylinders. Clutch pedal feels a little less stiff for sure. Squeak sound got better, but still there. Probably something I can lubricate near the pedal. I did the rear sway bar links as well. Clunk sound is still present. Think it might be coming from the rear spring/strut assembly. Car rides a little rough so thinking about buying the TRQ front and rear suspension kit from 1A auto. Didn’t have time for the front rotors and pads. Get to that maybe Wednesday evening.








 

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Regarding brakes, I ended up replacing/rebuilding the rear brakes including the ebrake assembly because corrosion caused soemthing to stick, seems to be a common problem and the rust belt might contribute to that. You might want to check your rear wheels for heat after driving for a while. Mine got bad enough I could feel it and smell it but I don't know how long it had actually been going on.
I got everything from Rock Auto pretty reasonably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Regarding brakes, I ended up replacing/rebuilding the rear brakes including the ebrake assembly because corrosion caused soemthing to stick, seems to be a common problem and the rust belt might contribute to that. You might want to check your rear wheels for heat after driving for a while. Mine got bad enough I could feel it and smell it but I don't know how long it had actually been going on.
I got everything from Rock Auto pretty reasonably.
I had a similar issue on my 03 Ram I had a long time ago. E-brake was sticking causing burning smell and causing wheel to get HOT. Ended up selling the truck before I got around to fixing it. I’ll keep an eye out for that for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Was experiencing some high idles when coming to a stop with clutch pressed in. Replaced air filter and cleaned up the throttle body. Good to go! So much easier to work on this car compared to the German ones I’ve owned.
 

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I hear you. I have two different laptops I need to talk to the VW's, haven't needed one yet for any Hondas I've owned. Worst thing I've come across with Honda's is the tinny sheet metal and the tendency for the brake and gas lines to rust out, etc. Also really surprised with the seats wearing out in the Elements, I've owned Accords with way more miles and the seats are fine, but they are usually cloth instead of vinyl or whatever the E seats are.
 
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