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Discussion Starter #1
I feel like I am taking crazy pills.

Several months ago I was having rough idle and idle hunting problems. I read here to clean/replace the IAC valve. Since my E is drive-by-wire (and the IACV is integrated) I replaced the entire TB with a new Honda OEM TB and gasket.

It solved the idle issue, but now it feelsl like the vehicle is dragging or braking when I let off the gas pedal while cruising. It's almost always when I've got a light foot on the pedal and I let off. It doesn't happen when I "get on it" or am at highway speeds (usually just <40MPH). The sensation is like someone lightly pressing the brakes on the vehicle for 3-7 seconds then releasing. It ONLY happens when I let OFF the gas pedal. Zero problems with accelerating or highway speeds.

Since then I've been trying to diagnose the issue and have done the following:

1. (approx 4 mo ago) Replaced the new TB with a second, new Honda TB and gasket, relearn procedure - issue persists
2. (approx 2 mo ago) Had the dealership do an HDS idle relearn, crankshaft position relearn, and software update - issue persists

About a week after I visited the dealership, the vehicle threw these three codes:

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input
P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

3. In response to the codes I replaced the MAF w/ relearn procedure - issue persists
4. (2 weeks ago) Replaced the APP sensor, readjusted the throttle cable, did relearn procedure - issue is BETTER, but still persists.

This weekend the vehicle again threw the code P0507 (IAC system RPM higher than expected). Went to the dealer to have them look at the vehicle and look at the dragging issue. Mechanic could find nothing causing the code OR the dragging sensation (I asked him to look at the wiring, connectors, and for vacuum leaks around the intake area). He wasn't able to find anything causing the dragging issue, but felt it. All he said was it could be "the transmission" but didn't seem worried.

For anyone else with similar issues online, it was resolved by cleaning/replacing the IACV (brand new), the MAF sensor (brand new), the APP sensor (brand new), or there is some loose wire or vacuum leak (mechanic found no leaks or wiring issues). I am resistant to think it might be the transmission is because it only started AFTER the TB replacement. I changed the transmission fluid and filter about a year ago and have had zero problems.

I'm at the point where I think this may just be normal, overzealous engine braking on the Element's part, or it may be an issue with the transmission not allowing me to coast when I take my foot off the pedal. The problem is that I know my vehicle didn't do this before the TB replacement. Why would it be doing it now? Am I overlooking something that could be causing this?

Help me EOC, you're my only hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's definitely above my skill and comfort level. Any idea on the ballpark it costs for valve adjustment?
 

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EOC Rank: Crankypants
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> Any idea on the ballpark it costs for valve adjustment?
A thread-title search for keyword "valve" returns several relevant threads. I did the work for you and found the following posts:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1265778
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1265858
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1240586
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=980834
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=982182
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1041633
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1041801
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1044066

Any well-equipped shop (they must have angled feeler gauges) can handle this job. However you will need a new valve cover gasket, maybe some other parts depending on their condition (see first thread above for details), and Hondabond or equivalent.

The cost of putting it off too long can be burned valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wanted to update for anyone in the future that finds this post.

Took the vehicle to a second dealership last week where they reprogrammed the ECU, performed an idle relearn, and re-calibrated the TB position sensor. This fixed the dragging/surging issue completely.

I had a technician at the first dealership perform these steps, but I suspect he only checked the TB position sensor and did not actually re-calibrate it to the new throttle body.
 
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