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Discussion Starter #1
Well, over the past year several time sI have gotten out of the E to the smell of smoke coming off my rear brake pad. About a month ago, I had to have new pads an rotors put on because they were bare and were grinding metal on metal (even though I get my E serviced at Honda, they didn't catch it).

Now tonight, I got out of my E after a short cruise to air dry after a wash, and the rear driver's side rotor was literally glowing bright orange. Is this normal?
 

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Nope, not normal. The pads are dragging on the rotor. Prolly a caliper "sticking."

(assuming you don't drive w/ one foot resting on the brake) whoever serviced it a month ago missed something. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I'm going to have to take it back. :mad:
 

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not normal at all! Probably draging as others have said, also you'll want to change your brake fluid now after you get that fixed because it's probably been boiling from the heat.
 

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not normal at all! Probably draging as others have said, also you'll want to change your brake fluid now after you get that fixed because it's probably been boiling from the heat.
good point.
 

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Well, over the past year several time sI have gotten out of the E to the smell of smoke coming off my rear brake pad. About a month ago, I had to have new pads an rotors put on because they were bare and were grinding metal on metal (even though I get my E serviced at Honda, they didn't catch it).

Now tonight, I got out of my E after a short cruise to air dry after a wash, and the rear driver's side rotor was literally glowing bright orange. Is this normal?
How many miles on your E? Did you tell your dealer about the smoke? You know, your dealer should have done some investigating when the REAR pads and rotors were worn bare. Come on. That's not normal.

If you're paying factory trained technician dealership prices you should be getting commensurate service and advice. You're probably going to owe for a new caliper (unless it's still under warranty or was last month when the original repair was done), but I'd insist that the dealer cover a new set pads and rotors for the rear axle (that have surely been damaged since the rotor was glowing red) and brake system bleed because they failed to address the (conspicuous) cause. They only addressed the result. Not acceptable.

They've also imperiled your very life. Red hot rotors adjacent to the fuel cell? Brake failure? Car fire?

From what we know I see a big problem with the dealer's due diligence. Unless they’ve got a good explanation, I’d be in that service manager’s face.

Keep us up to date on how this unfolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ended up getting it fixed at a big box store (Canadian Tire) because my dealer couldn't get me in for nearly a week and we were going away for the weekend.

I'll be calling the dealer and getting in ASAP. I'm cinfident they'll take care of me.
 

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Going from 100 to 40mph will not make the rotor glow trust me. Even a few times and the rotor still won't glow. Especially a rear rotor.

Make sure caliper isn't sticking and also check the emergency brake and make sure it isn't sticking. Doubt if its a wheel bearing. Maybe a weird ABS problem.

If the caliper is sticking it should be replaced and pads on both rear wheel changed. Also they should check the wheel bearing for that wheel and replace the rotor.

If you haven't flushed the fluid that should be done. Brake fluid flush every two years unless you live in a very humid climate than every year.

Takes several laps on a road course like Summit Point WV the original track to get the rotors glowing and that's the front rotors with carbon pads on the min straight going from 140+mph to about 60+mph entering turn one. And to get the rotors that hot you are turning hot laps leaving your braking very late and driving as close to 10/10ths as you can get in street car. For a car club school and a student the folks running the school aren't going to be happy and you will soon see a black flag for a talk to dial it down. 8/10ths is about the limit at a car club school. You need to build up heat in the rotor
and keep the heat in the rotor to get it to glow.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, part of the service I had done 3 weeks ago was an inspection of the calipers, and they ok'd everything. Now this is happening. My wife's peeved, and is taking it back tomorrow to get it fixed, and get new parts and she's not paying a cent. :)
 

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Yeah, part of the service I had done 3 weeks ago was an inspection of the calipers, and they ok'd everything. Now this is happening. My wife's peeved, and is taking it back tomorrow to get it fixed, and get new parts and she's not paying a cent. :)
Just my $.02--if it's not under warranty or recall then I would not expect the dealer or Honda to pay for the cause of the problem, i.e. caliper, wheel bearing, etc. I would, however, expect the dealer to take care of the resulting damage, i.e. new rotors and pads for rear axle and a brake fluid bleed, for not properbly diagnosing the cause of the problem in the first place (if the dealer is sufficiently embarassed about the matter then this would be the only way I could see the dealer taking care of the cause of the problem too). BTW, because they didn't diagnose the cause of the problem all the new work, i.e. rotors and pads and possibly new fluid, is ruined and that is why they should take care of them.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, we took the car in and they took a look and said everything seems fine. They thought that maybe the E brake had been stuck? We'll see if it comes up again. :cool:
 

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We'd still like to know how many miles are on the car.

The fact that the overheating happened repeatedly implies that either you habitually drove with the handbrake on (unlikely); the handbrake cable was somehow overtightened (should have been obvious on inspection); or there's a problem somewhere in the hydraulic circuit (more likely).

Did they pull the wheels and check the e-brake pads for evidence of abnormal wear?

Overheating can wreck the rear bearings. You should have them checked and repacked, and the brake fluid flushed.
 

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We'd still like to know how many miles are on the car.

The fact that the overheating happened repeatedly implies that either you habitually drove with the handbrake on (unlikely); the handbrake cable was somehow overtightened (should have been obvious on inspection); or there's a problem somewhere in the hydraulic circuit (more likely).

Did they pull the wheels and check the e-brake pads for evidence of abnormal wear?

Overheating can wreck the rear bearings. You should have them checked and repacked, and the brake fluid flushed.
Ramblerdan is right on....If it got glowing hot you need to do more than just have it checked, you need to repack the bearing and flush the brake-fluid. more than likely if it was caused by the e brake you will need to have the shoes replaced as well. I'd hate to see you on a trip and have a bearing failure or something. Also have the bead checked on your tire, the heat can damage it as well.

Be safe, and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the advise. We had the work done at a big box place (Canadian Tire), but actually have a regular service that we'll be getting done at the dealership in the next couple of weeks. Part of the service is brake service, so I'll get them to take a look.

My E has 70k KMs on it.
 
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