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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just purchased this 08 and day after would not start-purchased new batter 2 days later complete dead won't take a charge-replaced battery-after research replaced relays-AC clutch relay and cooling fan relay any idea where to go next-appreciate and ideas especially from someone who solved this problem-Im desperate

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Hi,
You need to troubleshoot.

If your Door Ajar light is on or your auto locks don't work a bad Door Ajar switch will drain the battery.

NOT sayin that is your problem, but something that happens!

 

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Are there any aftermarket accessories like alarm or remote starter? Are you familiar how to do a parasitic draw test? Generally anything over 50ma is considered excessive for Honda. It varies for newer Models. Easiest tool to use is a low amp meter clamp found anywhere, Harbor freight has them. You can use a multimeter but if you don’t do it correctly, you could pop the internal fuse making the tool useless until Fuse is replaced. What you need to do is put the vechile in to sleep. While monitoring the meter, you’re going to pull fuses one at a time until you find what fuse makes the draw drop below the 50ma. Once you find the fuse, you’ll need to find out what circuits the fuse controls and unplug the components on that circuit until the draw stops.

Preparation
Make sure you have a charged battery
-place amp clamp around the negative battery cable . Make sure you pay attention which way you place the clamp because some matter of the arrow if it has one faces towards or away from the battery.
-Open hood, front doors and hatch.
-take a screwdriver and close all the latches .
-lock and arm the factory alarm system and wait 15 mins or so to allow all the models to go into sleep mode. You will get the lights flash/horn and all interior lights will go off just like normal.

Testing
-After given time to allow modules go to sleep, turn on meter, zero it and place around the neg battery cable closest to the battery terminal.
-Observe the meter and verify you do have an excessive draw 50ma/.05a or above.
-Starting with the Underhood fuse box, you can start pulling fuses one at a time while monitoring the meter. If you pull a fuse and nothing changes, reinstall the fuse and move on to the next. Repeat until you find the fuse that causes the draw to stop. If you don’t find one in the under hood, move on to the driver side under dash and repeat.

After finding culprit circuit
-ok you found the fuse that made the draw disappear. Now you need to find out what component are controlled by that fuse.
-you’re now going to need to physically unplug each component one at a time until the draw stops. Let’s say you find out the radio unit is causing the draw the cd player keeps operating. you can verify by plugging it back in and see if the draw comes back.
-if you wake the modules up by mistake like hitting the unlock button, the whole process needs to be started over again.
-when you’re done testing, don’t forget to open the latches before trying to close the doors.

hope that helps.
 

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All you need is a multimeter. Give that video that was linked by @seagiant a watch.

When my alternator went bad, I knew exactly what it was, because my battery was reading 12.5v when the engine was off, and under 12.4 with engine on, meaning the alternator wasn't charging it.

I would get a booster and jump that battery. I'd also get a tender to keep it charged while you diagnose. Once you have the vehicle started, test with a multimeter.
 
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