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Passenger Door Lock Switch - OEM Style
or how Honda should have done it to begin with..
Standard Disclaimer: I do not know your electrical knowledge or skill, I can say this modification works as posted and does not interfere with or cause problems of any kind to other parts of the electrical system. However, if you totally screw up your wiring or burn your Element to a cinder by attempting this mod I'm sorry - but you really shouldn't have been messing with the electrical system if your that inept. Fair enough?
Objective:
We need to remove the door panel.Begin by removing the old door handle.
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From under the armrest, pull the cover and remove the single screw.
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Lower the window, then pull the bottom of the inner sash panel (A) out, then grab the top and move toward the from of the door, removing the sash panel. The panel on the front of the door removes simply by pulling straight out.
Pulling the door panel is not complicated nor does it require any special tools. Your hands work great - just start at the lower back and work your way around. There are clips located roughly where the red dots (C) are in the picture.
Once the panel is loose, shut the window. then disconnect the window switch (D).
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Running the wires to the door isn't a problem either, simply use a stiff wire, I used a length of 12 solid (it was laying around) but any stiff wire would work. You want to feed the wire through the opening where the speaker was, through the 'rubber' grommet to the dash area behind the glovebox.
Once the wire is through, tape the new wires (three wires are required) and simply pull back through to the opening at the speaker.
Disconnect the 'stiff' wire and feed the three wires up through the opening where the wiring harness for the window switch is located. Keep the wires in the same general area as the existing harness to give room for the operation of the window.
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Attach the connectors to the wires. Use adequate insulation if the connectors are not insulated already. A simple wrap or electrical tape on the center one is fine.
Connect the switch to the inner door handle and connect the inner door handle rod - the same way you removed it earlier.
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Route the wiring under the dash to the far side of the dash. The connector we are going to use is located directly above the hood release. Looking directly above the latch, connector C751 is the larger gray one. Two wires we are needing are the White wire with the Green stripe (Unlock) and the White wire with the Blue stripe (Lock).
Simply splice the wires from the new switch into these wires. In the pictures posted, the GRAY wire is UNLOCK, the WHITE wire is LOCK, and the BROWN wire is simply a ground wire that I connected to a screw at the sub cover.
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or how Honda should have done it to begin with..
Standard Disclaimer: I do not know your electrical knowledge or skill, I can say this modification works as posted and does not interfere with or cause problems of any kind to other parts of the electrical system. However, if you totally screw up your wiring or burn your Element to a cinder by attempting this mod I'm sorry - but you really shouldn't have been messing with the electrical system if your that inept. Fair enough?
Objective:
Install a door lock switch on the passenger's door that will lock and unlock all doors - just like the driver's door switch.
This is a follow up to Alaskan Toaster's Group Buy of the JDM Door Handle in the Group Buy Forum.
Required parts:This is a follow up to Alaskan Toaster's Group Buy of the JDM Door Handle in the Group Buy Forum.
1 - 72125-SCV-J01ZB JDM Door handle (this is the gray color)
1 - 35380-S9V-A02ZB Door Lock Switch (same as on the driver's door)
2 - 93500-030080H Machine Screws (any correct size screw will work)
3 - lengths of wire as needed - any color. (20 gauge is fine.)
I used white, gray, and brown because that's what I had laying around.
2 - Molex connectors or similar. (whatever Radio Shack has...)
Installing:1 - 35380-S9V-A02ZB Door Lock Switch (same as on the driver's door)
2 - 93500-030080H Machine Screws (any correct size screw will work)
3 - lengths of wire as needed - any color. (20 gauge is fine.)
I used white, gray, and brown because that's what I had laying around.
2 - Molex connectors or similar. (whatever Radio Shack has...)
We need to remove the door panel.Begin by removing the old door handle.
- Pry cover loose
- Remove two screws
- Release the pink hook (pull the handle forward and out half-way to release the pink hook.)
- Disconnect inner handle rod.
From under the armrest, pull the cover and remove the single screw.
Lower the window, then pull the bottom of the inner sash panel (A) out, then grab the top and move toward the from of the door, removing the sash panel. The panel on the front of the door removes simply by pulling straight out.
Pulling the door panel is not complicated nor does it require any special tools. Your hands work great - just start at the lower back and work your way around. There are clips located roughly where the red dots (C) are in the picture.
Once the panel is loose, shut the window. then disconnect the window switch (D).
Note: if you're squeamish now would be the time to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery... I did not disconnect the battery, but I'm sure the chances of totally screwing up something are greatly deminished if you do disconnect it.
Running the wires to the door isn't a problem either, simply use a stiff wire, I used a length of 12 solid (it was laying around) but any stiff wire would work. You want to feed the wire through the opening where the speaker was, through the 'rubber' grommet to the dash area behind the glovebox.
Once the wire is through, tape the new wires (three wires are required) and simply pull back through to the opening at the speaker.
Disconnect the 'stiff' wire and feed the three wires up through the opening where the wiring harness for the window switch is located. Keep the wires in the same general area as the existing harness to give room for the operation of the window.
Attach the connectors to the wires. Use adequate insulation if the connectors are not insulated already. A simple wrap or electrical tape on the center one is fine.
Connect the switch to the inner door handle and connect the inner door handle rod - the same way you removed it earlier.
Route the wiring under the dash to the far side of the dash. The connector we are going to use is located directly above the hood release. Looking directly above the latch, connector C751 is the larger gray one. Two wires we are needing are the White wire with the Green stripe (Unlock) and the White wire with the Blue stripe (Lock).
Simply splice the wires from the new switch into these wires. In the pictures posted, the GRAY wire is UNLOCK, the WHITE wire is LOCK, and the BROWN wire is simply a ground wire that I connected to a screw at the sub cover.
