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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Passenger Door Lock Switch - OEM Style
or how Honda should have done it to begin with..

Standard Disclaimer: I do not know your electrical knowledge or skill, I can say this modification works as posted and does not interfere with or cause problems of any kind to other parts of the electrical system. However, if you totally screw up your wiring or burn your Element to a cinder by attempting this mod I'm sorry - but you really shouldn't have been messing with the electrical system if your that inept. Fair enough?

Objective:
Install a door lock switch on the passenger's door that will lock and unlock all doors - just like the driver's door switch.

This is a follow up to Alaskan Toaster's Group Buy of the JDM Door Handle in the Group Buy Forum.

Required parts:

1 - 72125-SCV-J01ZB JDM Door handle (this is the gray color)
1 - 35380-S9V-A02ZB Door Lock Switch (same as on the driver's door)
2 - 93500-030080H Machine Screws (any correct size screw will work)
3 - lengths of wire as needed - any color. (20 gauge is fine.)
I used white, gray, and brown because that's what I had laying around.
2 - Molex connectors or similar. (whatever Radio Shack has...)
Installing:

We need to remove the door panel.Begin by removing the old door handle.

  • Pry cover loose
  • Remove two screws
  • Release the pink hook (pull the handle forward and out half-way to release the pink hook.)
  • Disconnect inner handle rod.
Then the Speaker Cover and speaker. Nothing special, just pull the cover off with your fingers, and unscrew the speaker. Disconnect the wire, and move the speaker to a safe place so it doesn't get damaged.

From under the armrest, pull the cover and remove the single screw.



Lower the window, then pull the bottom of the inner sash panel (A) out, then grab the top and move toward the from of the door, removing the sash panel. The panel on the front of the door removes simply by pulling straight out.

Pulling the door panel is not complicated nor does it require any special tools. Your hands work great - just start at the lower back and work your way around. There are clips located roughly where the red dots (C) are in the picture.

Once the panel is loose, shut the window. then disconnect the window switch (D).
Note: if you're squeamish now would be the time to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery... I did not disconnect the battery, but I'm sure the chances of totally screwing up something are greatly deminished if you do disconnect it.



Running the wires to the door isn't a problem either, simply use a stiff wire, I used a length of 12 solid (it was laying around) but any stiff wire would work. You want to feed the wire through the opening where the speaker was, through the 'rubber' grommet to the dash area behind the glovebox.

Once the wire is through, tape the new wires (three wires are required) and simply pull back through to the opening at the speaker.

Disconnect the 'stiff' wire and feed the three wires up through the opening where the wiring harness for the window switch is located. Keep the wires in the same general area as the existing harness to give room for the operation of the window.




Attach the connectors to the wires. Use adequate insulation if the connectors are not insulated already. A simple wrap or electrical tape on the center one is fine.

Connect the switch to the inner door handle and connect the inner door handle rod - the same way you removed it earlier.



Route the wiring under the dash to the far side of the dash. The connector we are going to use is located directly above the hood release. Looking directly above the latch, connector C751 is the larger gray one. Two wires we are needing are the White wire with the Green stripe (Unlock) and the White wire with the Blue stripe (Lock).

Simply splice the wires from the new switch into these wires. In the pictures posted, the GRAY wire is UNLOCK, the WHITE wire is LOCK, and the BROWN wire is simply a ground wire that I connected to a screw at the sub cover.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks guys, but it's no big deal.

Here's a few more pictures I made up but the system wouldn't allow but eight to be posted in one thread. :rolleyes:

Anyway, if these are any help to anyone:

The Parts List


Door Panel Pulling (almost)


Inside Door Handle Install



 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I can get the door stuff off with no issues, I'll be able to complete this.

Chozen -

You might want to take a look-see at this thread started by locksmith, it gives a great how-to on pulling the door panel. (See even us veterans can use the FAQ/How-To's every now and then). ;-)
 

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bh241, that is a great write up/tutorial. There isn't really much to add to it but I will add this little bit of info for those that may want a factory plug for whatever reason. The plug that fits the cruise control switch on the E uses the same exact plug as the power door lock switch. So, just chop of the cruise plug and you have a perfect plug for your power door lock mod !! Who really uses cruise anyway :rolleyes:

OK, now SERIOUSLY, the plug does fit into the the door lock switch, but I really don't expect anybody to go chopping off the cruise control plug so they can have a factory power door lock plug :lol: I do know that the 96-00 Civic also has the same cruise control plug and those things are plentiful at junkyards. I also can't imagine that the yard would want more than a couple of bucks for the plug with a short pigtail of wire. It does have 5 wires but you could easily unpin the unused wires or just tape them off. You would obviously have to solder a lenght of wire onto this to make it reach the door lock wires on the driver side, but if your doing this mod, soldering or butt splicing some wire is not a big deal. The real benifit to this other than having a "stock appearance" is that if you ever have to take the panel off (or anybody else does for that matter), there is no concern about reconnecting the wires to the appropriate terminals. I think I am gonna stop down at the salvage yard tomorrow and pick one up....cause I don't want to loose my cruise function ;-) Anyway, for what it is worth, here are some pics of the connector you would be looking for. Remember folks....I use my camera phone almost all the time now, so you'll have to deal with the so-so pics :|
 

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Excellent find
. So I guess anyone that can't find an old civic in a junkyard... the cruise connector. :D
Actually...I am sure there are other areas that utilize the same plug....Honda does this alot. I am sure there are other year/model cars that even use the same cruise control plugs....the E and the Civic are just all that I have on hand at home to compare it too. The cruise control is just an easy to get to location if your at a "you pull it" type of yard. Most cars probaly wouldn't even require tools to get to it. :cool: Like I said, I am hoping to make it out to the yard in the morning on the way to work, I will report back if I find out more.
 

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As far as finding a plug...I recall a member using the plug from a PC power supply to use with a OEM fog light switch. Might be able to find a generica plug at Radio Shack or even an auto parts store that will work.
 

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As far as finding a plug...I recall a member using the plug from a PC power supply to use with a OEM fog light switch. Might be able to find a generica plug at Radio Shack or even an auto parts store that will work.
I did Lizzurd on my '03 SMM when I installed the CyberWhites. I used a P9 plug. In fact, I think I still have floating around here. I'll take a look but I'm prepared in case I don't.
 

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Nice writeup, Benny. Do you have a picture of the 159-2xxx connectors on the switch contacts? Which connector did you use?

Interesting point about the Civic cruise control connector plug. It reminded me that individual connectors can be removed from plugs. Many OEM plugs could potentially serve as pigtail donors.

 

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Nice writeup, Benny. Do you have a picture of the 159-2xxx connectors on the switch contacts? Which connector did you use?

Interesting point about the Civic cruise control connector plug. It reminded me that individual connectors can be removed from plugs. Many OEM plugs could potentially serve as pigtail donors.

What I plan to do, if I can find a Civic donor, is cut down about 3-4", giving me enough room to splice into the already connected wires, using solderless connectors. Saves time trying to pry the wires out (done THAT before)..... :shock::rolleyes:
 

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Ok folks.....just got back from the salvage yard. Another donor candidate is the 98 body style Accord. The hazard switch and the cruise control have the same plug on that style Accord. That generation Accord ran from 98-02 but I am not sure if all the plugs stayed the same, but most likely they did. This should make finding the plug even easier :D
 

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Ok....mine is done now. I started on it about Noon and got done at about 2:30 :-o This should take like 30-45 minutes, but I was at work and had to stop to answer the phone several times, receive my UPS shipment, take my partner's dog's out to do their business :rolleyes: On top of that, my buddy stopped by and I had to keep my eye on his 2 year old daughter who thought it would be fun to randomly kick my other $25k+ project that is sitting in my shop :mad: She's too cute to get mad at though. I am starting to realize why I never get enough done during a day.....too many other things get done while I am trying to do what I should be doing. Anyway, used the plug I got at the yard, soldered, heatshrinked, etc.... This is one of those mods that will have no real gratification for me, lol, but it's cool anyway.

Oh yea, the existing plug for the passenger window is the same as the donor plug. So if your using a donor plug, make sure you plug them back into the appropriate place. I removed the unused wires on mine, so it was easily identifiable.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The whole connector thing NismoGriff is posting got me curious so I just thumbed through the electrical manual, it looks like all these connectors are the same:

  • Cruise Control main Switch ( Connector 148 )
  • Driver's Door Lock Switch ( Connector 150 )
  • Front Passenger's Power Window Switch ( Connector 151 )
  • Left Tail Light Assembly ( Connector 155 )
  • Right Tail Light Assembly ( Connector 159 )
Any of you parts/service guys know if any of these are available?
Of course, if there are that many on the E, I imagine the accord also had several throughout it too... Anyone?
 

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I also noticed the window switch on the passanger side using the same plug. I went as far as pulling the harnedd out of the dor and running the wires into it all the way to the OEM connector behind the glovebox. Now I just have to run it to the drivers side. Also a 94-01 Integra passanger window switch will serve as a doner for the plug.
 

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OK guys, I hate to be a pain in the rear but I finally, finally got the PDL in place. Took forever to run the wire through the rubber grommet as everything I used seemed to get hung up. I guess from what I could see, there is foam insulation inside that tunnel and my kept getting hung up. None the less, the coat hanger made it through finally and life is good. I when ahead and grounded right behind the glove box as I saw a good spot, then ran my two wires across to the other side where they need to be to make final connection. PROBLEM! :cry:

How in the heck do you get that connector out. I pulled, squeezed and pulled and nothing. I don't want to damage anything and I know there is always a simple solution so I thought I'd ask. What gives? At least I have the hard part done and now its just a matter of tapping into the those two wires to control the Lock/Unlock. I also know I probably won't get an answer before I head out to work at 1400hrs and it's 1100hrs now. Time to make a Blockbuster run. If the Lord smiles down on me, I'll have an answer when I get back and I can finish this up. If not, Thursday will be the earliest.

Thanks again to all who put this together and the help along the way. This is putting the finishing touches on the little stuff I want done before next month. My stems, hub rings and lugs should be here today and maybe, just maybe we go get the new wheels and tires mounted tomorrow, or Thursday,maybe Friday.:oops:

So much to do and so little time.

Peace!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm working with and speaking of the c751 connector that sits just above the hood release. I don't see an obvious tab for release, the reason for my inquiry. I have had some PM's on it and I'll give it another shot in a few days.
The 'tab' is on the back side of the connector - don't know why they turned it that way but they did.

However, it's not mandatory that the connector be unhooked, it just makes it easier for us old guys to get to the two wires.


 

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I just came in to check to see if anyone who's actually done this had responded. I still can't get the freakin' thing out! :cry:

I even tried some needle nose on the plastic tab that locks it into its metal bracket and because my hands are so big, I just can't get it. I think I see the wires but my vision isn't the best, thus, I really need to bring it out to see. I started to take a swag *scientific wild ass guess* and getting the correct two wires I need by just putting the splice connectors on them and then using butt connectors which plug into the spicers to make the contact but I really need to make sure I have the correct wires. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm there but NOT!
 

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I just came in to check to see if anyone who's actually done this had responded. I still can't get the freakin' thing out! :cry:
Chozn - any luck, yet?

What I ended up doing (before I FINALLY found the tab) was pinched the round-ish connector on the metal plate to get the whole enchilada off. THAT'S when I found the tab on the back side. It still wasn't easy to separate, used a screwdriver to carfeully separate the two halves after I started an opening. Hope this gets you closer. The inline splices I used were still a pain due to the lack of slack in the wires. :shock::|

Anywho, finished the mod today and it locks/unlocks as it should (have from the factory), so I'm happy (only a couple of cuss words and little bit of skin later). I installed the switch and handle last week, but didn't wire it up until this weekend. LOOKED nice....... :shock::rolleyes::D

Thanks again Benny, your write-up was well referenced in the process..... :):)
 

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No luck

I'm still needing to make the final connections on the lock/unlock wires from the drivers side. I've ran the wires to the connector but I still can't get it out. I haven't had the time to get back on it but as you can see from my posted pics, the carbon fibor kit that I cut to work with the switch on the drivers side is kicking! Its all good but but for actually working. I need to get this done and complet.

Again, any suggestions to getting this connector out, I can use to allow me more space and seeing of the wires to make the fix.
 

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