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Based on my reading of this thread and those related to it, my impression is that the group buy was a frustrating task. You may be better off going at it alone. I'm also not sure about how readily available the part actually is. Yosi found me one within a couple of days but did not indicate if there was a surplus.

Good luck if you decide to move forward with it!
 

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If you want one, and he can find one, buy it NOW. I've tried to order other JDM Element parts for years that are long gone. Even some US parts (color match) are no longer available. Don't wait. Don't bother with a group buy.
 

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Dremel tool, liquid nails, a driver's side switch and a couple of bolts get the job done. Piece of cake actually. Finding an adhesive that would work with the plastic frame was the biggest pain in the ass. Dremel out an opening for the switch, liquid nail the bolts to the back of your modified cover, allow to set, insert switch, tighten down nuts to glued in bolts, run wiring, DONE!!
 

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Dremel tool, liquid nails, a driver's side switch and a couple of bolts get the job done. Piece of cake actually. Finding an adhesive that would work with the plastic frame was the biggest pain in the ass. Dremel out an opening for the switch, liquid nail the bolts to the back of your modified cover, allow to set, insert switch, tighten down nuts to glued in bolts, run wiring, DONE!!
To clarify, IslandE is talking about modifying a standard US Left side lock/handle into a JDM Right side lock/handle.

Installing a JDM is just switching parts and running the wires.
 

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I know this is a couple years old but figured I'd add some info on locating a handle in case any new used E owners were trying this.

I found a right hand JDM handle assy, straight from Japan, through Amayama.com. Part number for my black handle was 72125-SCV-J01ZA and cost me about $57 shipped. You send a request for the part through their site, they'll email you the quote with a link for payment. Smooth and easy and others have had good luck with them for the hard to get overseas parts.

The switch and screws are same for USDM from any US Honda parts supplier here. My salvage yard 5 pin connector was $7 from Ebay and came with about 6" of wire still attached.
 

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Ok I have gathered all the parts for this mod, but iam having trouble finding pics of the pin outs for the switch. On the first page looks like it was described with a pic, but the pic is missing. From what I have gathered the middle is the ground but can't figure which is lock/unlock been searching and searching. Thanks for any help.
 

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Ok I have gathered all the parts for this mod, but iam having trouble finding pics of the pin outs for the switch. On the first page looks like it was described with a pic, but the pic is missing. From what I have gathered the middle is the ground but can't figure which is lock/unlock been searching and searching. Thanks for any help.
It's been a while since I did this, and I don't have time to read the whole thread again, but...

Just peek at the driver side one. Or if you know which one is ground, just plug in the other two. If it works, you're good. If it works in reverse, switch the two.
 

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Thanks for the reply! Duh am going to pull both door panels to run new speaker wire and mirror heater wires I'll just copy the driver side.
 

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Does anyone know which prongs are supposed to attach to which colored wire on the driver's side?

The photos from page 1 are gone 🥺 . Any tips would be appreciated. If not I'll have to remove the driver door and try to figure it out from there.
 

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I believe I have the wiring correct on the passenger door lock switch.

I've routed the wires from the passenger door to the glovebox. Now I need to go from there to the driver side harness. Am I supposed to route the wires though the dash or the floor? Any recommendations?
 

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Pics please. I know this is old but maybe worth a shot
There really isn't much to it. I don't have any photos of my install, but if you follow the colors and diagrams in the post you should be fine.

It is very very easy and I'm a worry wart when it comes to projects. Fishing wiring through the door jam is the hardest part and it isn't that tough.
 

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Many thanks to bh241 while this was more than 30 minutes (took about 3 hours or so taking my time start to finish and adding some new door speakers while I was there)
I included these few pictures in order to really help spell it out. The steps were easy to follow, but hopefully this answers any remaining questions/

This was a pretty easy mod following the instructions early on in the post. I did a few things differently than originally described as it made more sense.

Fixture Automotive exterior Vehicle Vehicle door Automotive design


This is a shot of the wiring behind the door card, with the stock Honda plug using three of the five wires. Getting the door card off is well documented so I wont go into it here. Getting the wiring through the factory tunnel (rubber connection with existing wiring) was also easy, I did this while at the laundromat in about three tries without a coat hanger. It is necessary to remove the holders for the glovebox door to get access and I disconnected the large grey connector to get a little more access to get my hand in there, if you want a pic let me know.
Hood Finger Thumb Tool Cable

Again the marking of the white/green, and white/blue, with the yellow wire as ground. (sorry I had not yet marked this with black tape)
FAR LEFT white/green
MIDDLE Ground
FAR RIGHT white/blue
Please ignore the wiring on the connector side as these colors were on there when I clopped the harness from a salvage yard.
Thanks again to bh241 for the wire connection description

I recommend using the female flat connecting wire taps on second and third to last two wires on the gray Cconnector C751 (the larger gray one) directly behind the hood release switch, which requires the removal of the drivers side door sill plastic, drivers side footwell plastic and the under steering wheel fuse panel to expose. Placing all three wires in the same place just make it easier to service in my opinion as the modification need only be unplugged if there are any possible issues, although it's beyond unlikely.I recommend first connecting the grond, as this is the safest way to wire without disconnecting the battery. This is where I used the loop connector and the hood release mount bolt as a body ground.
Cable Electrical wiring Bicycle handlebar Gas Wire



Parts used
talk to Ikeda san @ J's car garage
J's Garage Export Co., Ltd.
Yoshitaka Ikeda [email protected]
BLK door insert (1): 72165-scv-a01za $35.30
BLK switch (1): 35380-s9v-a02zd $25.34
shipping: 20$
screws (2) 93500-03008-oh (I forgot to order these, and sourced them at Ace hardware for about 50 cents)
Three 18 - 20 butt connectors to connect 20G wire to factory Honda plug from which is easily found, got mine from a 2000 civic cruise control (as I have totally rebuilt my civic I know this connector well)
20 gauge wiring 30 feet total, cut in three 10 ft lengths. (had about 1ft left over from the trigger and 6 inches left from the ground wire)
one 12-16 gauge screw terminal for ground. (could have been an 18-22 ground loop, but I didnt have one big enough to fit the bold)
two 18-22 gauge wire taps with female flat connectors
two 18-22 male flat connectors

tools used
Phillips head #2 screw driver for door card
slot head #1 screw driver for wire clip and black plastic plugs on pass door to peel back plastic weather stripping (smaller slot head not quite for techwork, but for small slothead screws)
10 MM socket head and 1/4 rachet
wire strippers
wire cutters
electrical tape in black, white, blue and green
 
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