Passenger Door Lock Switch

Love your tip. This ranks right up there with resetting the SRS light without a trip to the dealer. I have a few questions before I order the parts:

Where did you get the parts & what was the total cost ?

I've looked at the Majestic Honda web site but can not determine exactly what parts to order (they don't have any parts labeled "cup" or "lever"). Do you still have the part numbers handy?

Which parts of the lever and cup did you have to trim and how much? Is the trimmed area noticeable?

How did you connect the wiring?

How hard was it to thread the wires through the door into the passenger compartment?

Any and all tips are greatly appreciated.

Chris:

You "stole" my idea! lol I have been planning this mod out since the day I picked my E up on Jan 2 of this year. But I need to wait for the Spring since it is too cold to work outside here...

As was asked, could you give a complete parts list as to what is needed?

Why did you have to Dremel anything? I was expecting to only have to turn the cup upside down and put the switch in right side up. Not having taken the door panel off yet... do you think the wires look easy enough to connect up and get it working as it should have from the factory?

When you do the wiring, please take some good notes and snap a few pics as well.

Thanks.

spdrcr5 said:

Chris:

You "stole" my idea! lol I have been planning this mod out since the day I picked my E up on Jan 2 of this year. But I need to wait for the Spring since it is too cold to work outside here...

As was asked, could you give a complete parts list as to what is needed?

Why did you have to Dremel anything? I was expecting to only have to turn the cup upside down and put the switch in right side up. Not having taken the door panel off yet... do you think the wires look easy enough to connect up and get it working as it should have from the factory?

When you do the wiring, please take some good notes and snap a few pics as well.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

For parts just go to honaautomotiveparts.com and get a drivers side door lock switch and a passenger side cup/lever. Look at the exploded parts diagrams on the site and you can figure out which ones you need. Make sure you get the correct color.

The hard part is fitting your existing lever to the new cup because the pin holding it is hard to get out. You could try to use an upside-down cup/lever but then you'd have to bend the pull rod that goes from the lever to the latch.

Dremmeling is required because the switch and/or the cup are not symmetrical in the horizontal plane, so the switch ends up too low when you flip it over.

I haven't got around to wiring yet but I'm hoping to be able to do it using only the speaker holes and not taking off the whole door panel.

Hurry up and beat me so you can tell me how to do it.

Chris

OK... you're going to need to run THREE wires, two which go to the "multiplex control unit" (MCU), which is part of the under-dash fuse box. The concerned wires are:

White/Green tracer - unlock;
White/Blue tracer - lock (CAUTION - do not confuse this with the +12V wire coming from the fuse box under the hood. They are the same color/tracer!);
Ground - any location handy under the dash, although pretty much any black (and just black) wire will be a ground.

The switch in the driver's door is momentary on both contacts, so you can simply use vampire taps to attach your wires, although I'd attach the ground to a bolt or something - I don't like to compromise ground leads. If you have any doubts about which wires you're going to, just pick the bundle just before it enters the bellows on the driver side and you should be safe.

The center contact on the new switch is what goes to ground. You have to run a wire - there is no reliable ground within the passenger door itself since both sides of both actuators (window and lock) go to the MCU, where it does special things with what would be the ground side. As far as which tab on the switch does what, you will want to check things out with an ohmmeter - toggle switches vary internally, so the contacts might be arranged opposite of what you assume they are.

There should be plenty of room in the bellows between the door and the dash for your wires. I'd bundle the wires with 1/4" wire loom, but that's me. The switch wires are logic-only - they carry no working current. You can use 16AWG or even 18AWG wire without worry.

Good luck, and give us a full report! Great project!

I did this mod and it works great! A few notes for those interested.

1. If you happen to have a spool of 18G wire, go and get a second color. Getting the ground mixed up with one of the other wires is very frustrating.

2. Use a drill press to remove the pins. I used a small 3/16 grinding wheel on the dremel and removed most of the flair at the bottom of the pin. Then a used drill bit to press the pin out. To get it back in I cut a small piece of pfc to give the drill press something to push against as the pin goes into the handle. I just used the drill chuck without anything in it to reinstall the pin.

3. Be sure to remove enough of the passenger door handle so it will open enough.

4. Don't use the dremel to carve the handle or the cup to get things to fit. A razor saw, exacto, and chisel will easily carve the soft plastic.

5. I had much grief trying to get the wires out the door. I finally removed the speaker and was able to fish the wires from the handle, down to the speaker and then out the door. MAke sure the window can go down without pulling out your wires.

6. I used an old pc power supply connecter for the switch connection, just cut off the 6th pin, and trim to fit.

7. If you drop the glove box, and reach in from the side, you can unplug the connector that goes to the door and slide it completely out to fish the wire through the rubber gasket.

8. I used crimp taps to connect in to the cable that goes out the drivers door. Refer to one of the earlier posts, to tap into the white with blue stripe, and white with green stripe wires.

9. I used the bolt with all the ground wires attached to it for the center pin connection.


Now a question.

I drilled two holes in the bottom of the "cup" and reattached it to the door frame screwing into the same white plastic thingies. It's not really a good connection, and the screw heads prevent the "cap" from fitting all the way down. Anyone have a better idea?

I asked Yoshi about the group buy. He said that the parts themselves will not be any cheaper, and the only thing saved would be on shipping. Ok so, one of us gets a big package and then has the redistribute all the parts and pay to ship them all over the country. Plus, time is money too. So that's not going to be worth it in the end. Better off contacting him individually.

These are the prices quoted:
The total cost is,
#1 Switch ASSY CF Gray color
35380-S9V-A02ZB : 2805yen
#10 Case ASSY CF Gray color
72125-SCV-J01ZB : 1980yen
Shipping cost : 2090yen
5% of commission : 343yen
TOTAL : 7218yen

Which is $61.47 at todays exchange rate.