Honda Element Owners Club banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
yesterday, I found a rusted paint at edge of top (see picture). I am guess this was caused by internal rust. I am thinking to sand off the rust, and put some composite to make flat and then paint it.

Any advice? What material I should purchase from auto parts shop like autozone?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
pretty sure the warranty is like 7 years or 5 years or something, dont have my owners manual right here but it is in there.
you are right: it was covered by corrosion warranty for 5 years. but I bought on 2004 august, so out of warranty.

So I have to repair it myself to save money.

any suggestion for repair?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
you are right: it was covered by corrosion warranty for 5 years. but I bought on 2004 august, so out of warranty.

So I have to repair it myself to save money.

any suggestion for repair?
i tried... :)

where exactly is it, the picture makes it hard to tell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Sorry to see the R word. Rust is like Cancer you have to get it all out to fix the problem. The tight shot looks like the edge of the roof at the windshield. If it is that is a bad place to work. By the looks of the rust blisters and crusty metal under the surface you have a good size hole to fix. The only way to fix it is to remove all of the rust and gray area from the metal. If you just put Bondo (body filler over the rust it will pop back through in a week or two. You will need to take the moulding/windshield out and grind the area out and have a pro weld the hole up and grind the metal and prep for filler. If the area is two big you will need to form new metal in the area and weld and grind the area for glass filler and then body filler. This kind of repair needs a pro to make it right. If you are trying to save money have a bodyshop do the repair work and leave it in primer. You can always do the paint work yourself. the paint work usually cost more than the rust repair. Rust is such a problem that most body shops will not cover it if it comes back unless they put new metal in the roof in the problem area. If you are going to sell the car you might tape up the area and dig the rust out and grind the area with a 3M rust remover wheel that the autoparts store sales. You will probably have a three or four inch area to repair with body filler and paint. sanding the filler and feathering the area for paint and primer will be hard with the moulding in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sorry to see the R word. Rust is like Cancer you have to get it all out to fix the problem. The tight shot looks like the edge of the roof at the windshield. If it is that is a bad place to work. By the looks of the rust blisters and crusty metal under the surface you have a good size hole to fix. The only way to fix it is to remove all of the rust and gray area from the metal. If you just put Bondo (body filler over the rust it will pop back through in a week or two. You will need to take the moulding/windshield out and grind the area out and have a pro weld the hole up and grind the metal and prep for filler. If the area is two big you will need to form new metal in the area and weld and grind the area for glass filler and then body filler. This kind of repair needs a pro to make it right. If you are trying to save money have a bodyshop do the repair work and leave it in primer. You can always do the paint work yourself. the paint work usually cost more than the rust repair. Rust is such a problem that most body shops will not cover it if it comes back unless they put new metal in the roof in the problem area. If you are going to sell the car you might tape up the area and dig the rust out and grind the area with a 3M rust remover wheel that the autoparts store sales. You will probably have a three or four inch area to repair with body filler and paint. sanding the filler and feathering the area for paint and primer will be hard with the moulding in place.
great information! thank you very much.
sorry for the picture quality because I was trying to make easy to upload. actually the rust size is only about one quarter big.
I am going to take your advice: since it is 5 year old car and I really don't like about perfection of work and I don't want it spread out, I am going to sand off the rust and hopefully won't see a hole underneath it. Then I will put the filler, sand it to make flat, then put primer, and finally put blue paint on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Picturetaker has pretty good info.

Alternatively (what I did at my body shop) was remove trim pieces - tape off windows, and tape off a bodyline that's close. etc. Sandblast the area out. When you're sandblasting you can see the rust very easily.

If there are any holes you would need to fill them with either metal or a fiberglass based filler like Tiger-hair (bondo will just soak in new moisture like a sponge). Put that in, sand smooth with a fairly rough grit. Use bondo at this point or a lightweight putty which will fill in the scratches from the sanding in the tiger-hair.

You use finer grains of sandpaper at this point - and you can use primer to give you a nice overall view of the area - refill with bondo / putty and sand as necessary, reprime - sand with a very fine grit - then paint and clearcoat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Picturetaker has pretty good info.

Alternatively (what I did at my body shop) was remove trim pieces - tape off windows, and tape off a bodyline that's close. etc. Sandblast the area out. When you're sandblasting you can see the rust very easily.

If there are any holes you would need to fill them with either metal or a fiberglass based filler like Tiger-hair (bondo will just soak in new moisture like a sponge). Put that in, sand smooth with a fairly rough grit. Use bondo at this point or a lightweight putty which will fill in the scratches from the sanding in the tiger-hair.

You use finer grains of sandpaper at this point - and you can use primer to give you a nice overall view of the area - refill with bondo / putty and sand as necessary, reprime - sand with a very fine grit - then paint and clearcoat.
thank you for the tip. I will update this thread with pictures after I finish if I don't think I mess it up :lol:. Since it is my first time to do this kind of job, it is going to be a fun project for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
rust too

I have rust too. It's between the tailgate hinge and the body what is the best tip to address this befor it gets bad , just surface rust now but needs attention
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Use a die grinder or a 3M Clean and Strip disc, remove as much flaking rust as possible. Then dissolve remaining rust with Evapo-Rust. Wet the area with evapo-rust and keep it wet (cover with a rag soaked in evaporust). Stuff works. Its water based and not phosphoric acid based, yes water based, don't knock it till you've tried it. Eastwood sells it under the name Eastwood Rust Dissolver. Look to Eastwood for ideas or suggestions about auto body products after you get rid of the rust.

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/removal.html

The safer, acid free rust remover. Removes rust, not metal. Leaves metal clean and ready to paint, plate or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts. Will not harm copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Will not remove sound paint or chrome. Removes blueing and other oxide coatings. Works as long as surface remains wet. Derust small parts in a plastic container larger parts can be placed in the discharge stream of a small pump. Virtually any plastic pump will work. Irrigation hose can be used to assure complete coverage. One gallon derusts about 20 square feet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
in last week, I "fixed" the rusted part. it doesn't look good enough after finished. I believe it is due to the surface not flat and smooth enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
The boys at the body shop are good at what they do. After the repair and sanding close your eyes and rub your fingers across the work, if you can tell where the repair is by touch, don't bother to put paint on you will see the repair. This was taught to me be an old body man years ago. The repair should be smooth to the touch, or your prep work is not done. Keep on filling and sanding.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top