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Question for owners in areas where roads get a heavy coating of salt and other coatings in winter. What are some strategies to keep brake calipers from rusting and seizing? I'm in southern Maine, and have owned my EX since 2012 (currently 108k miles on it). In those 8 years, my front brakes been redone 3 times, rears 5 times -- all including fresh calipers because existing ones seized (which then does a number on pads and discs, of course). Everyone around here complains about rust on underbody components, but this seems extreme. My shop is pretty honest, so I'm confident this is really happening. Here's the kicker: I park inside in winter! (It gets evicted in summer when the s2000 comes out of hibernation.) So my question is: how best to avoid these things rusting and seizing?
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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2005 EX in the rust belt here. Currently 105k miles, 65k when I bought it 5 years ago. Lives outdoors year round. Fronts aren't too much of a problem. Still the original calipers. I lube the slider pins with silicone grease once a year, checking the boots, cleaning the calipers well under the mounting hardware, a very light coat of hi temp anti-seize under the mounting hardware, inside the piston bore (some ghastly pics of that rusting through on here somewhere), and on the pad ears. It really doesn't take long and isn't unpleasant under a shade tree on a nice day of my choosing.

I do the same for the rears but they're another story entirely! Replaced both original rear calipers and hoses this year, pins ok but one piston wasn't retracting fully (rust) and that side ran hot. Pain in the butt getting a set of remans that wasn't crap. I tried but wound up returning two sets of zinc plated calipers. One set Cardone 'ultra' remans, and one set Callahan 'Chinese' new. Both mis-manufactured. Finally got a set of non-plated Brakebest remans (probably Cardone as well but at least someone had QC'd them).

Same story with rotors. Fronts wear evenly and stay nice and clean, surface rust from sitting comes right off with use (Centric premiums). Rears rust and groove/gall awfully. OEM, Brembo blanks, Centric Premiums all equally bad. When I did the rear calipers this fall I had the almost new rear Brembos turned a bit to get rid of the yuck and the inner rotor ridges removed. The mechanic who turned them had seen this on more than one Honda and suggested trying harsher ceramic pads on the rear only (I had been running Raybestos Pro pads all around). We'll see. So far the rear rotors do seem to be staying cleaner.

Long story short, a yearly thorough DIY clean and lube goes a long way but the design on the rear still stinks IMO. I'm on original front calipers @15 years and just starting set #2 on the rear.
 

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2008 EX AT
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I do the same brake lube routine as Marv. Otherwise, the rear brakes get cranky. I can tell by how freely the car coasts in neutral on a slight hill. Any binding will show up this way.

I also did the entire rears on my 2008 E including the flexible hoses. Best quality discs, pads, calipers from Rock Auto. If the old flex hoses are bad, you’ll also get binding as the brake fluid won’t flow back properly. I also change the brake fluid every two years here in Chicago area. YMMV.
 

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cars don't rust as bad when they're outside believe it or not... the cold slows down the chemical reaction of iron oxidation.. in a garage it has all night to eat away whether the garage is heated or not
 

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Here's the kicker: I park inside in winter!
Is your garage heated? or above freezing?
My limited research told me that salt won't cause rust when its below freezing. My car lives on the street, so I try and wash it any time the temp gets above freezing to get the salt off. During those spells of cold and salt, I don't bother.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is your garage heated? or above freezing?
My limited research told me that salt won't cause rust when its below freezing. My car lives on the street, so I try and wash it any time the temp gets above freezing to get the salt off. During those spells of cold and salt, I don't bother.
Interesting. Garage isn't heated, but it tends to be above freezing unless the outside temp is 25 or below (which is unusual around here). I need to be more diligent about washing.
 

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Question for owners in areas where roads get a heavy coating of salt and other coatings in winter. What are some strategies to keep brake calipers from rusting and seizing? I'm in southern Maine, and have owned my EX since 2012 (currently 108k miles on it). In those 8 years, my front brakes been redone 3 times, rears 5 times -- all including fresh calipers because existing ones seized (which then does a number on pads and discs, of course). Everyone around here complains about rust on underbody components, but this seems extreme. My shop is pretty honest, so I'm confident this is really happening. Here's the kicker: I park inside in winter! (It gets evicted in summer when the s2000 comes out of hibernation.) So my question is: how best to avoid these things rusting and seizing?
 

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Worked on brakes a few months after when bought it here in Maine. My 2008 brakes a few months later after sale were bad that year according to consumer reports data due to brake caliper pins corroding.

I decided to replace all pads, pins, fluid, and calipers to not worry about brakes to my EOL for years . from O'reilly's I do name names, with proof.

IN answer to your question, find a service to clean and lube your caliper pins each year or so.

I hate to mention my wife's car as I get bashed, there is no required periodic maintenance service on my wife's 2017 Tesla S unless you live in a New England or equivalent state.

Then it is to clean and lube the brake pins every 2 years.

I speak of this replacing O'reilleys brake calipers AGAIN in -10 degree weather, when i should have left oem stuff on.
 

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202866
I put on coated calipers and rotors front and rear. Also upgraded to the larger Acura ones with larger rotors, calipers and pads. Stops better than it ever has.
 
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