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OK so i just bought an 07' Element EX FWD/Automatic, when i got the car i had to drive it a 6 hour trip home and it gave me no issues and ran like a charm. However like all used cars i buy i take them to a mechanic of choice and have a bumper to bumper inspection done. I was told the intake needed to be serviced and cleaned, the transmission flushed, and the driver side lower control arm bearing replaced. it took about 3 days to get this all done. After getting the car back it performed fine for a couple days till one morning i was leaving for work and as i attempted to get on the interstate, the check engine light, and VSA light came on, the vehicle promptly throttled itself. which when your going 60 in front of a semi and your car decides too have the power of a lawnmower and that you can't exceed 30 mph, it is not a desirable situation to be in. I had the car taken back to my mechanic in which he just cleared the code and said it was fine and that the problem was due to a faulty MAP sensor. I replaced the MAP sensor and yet the problem didn't go away. randomly the car just had a siezure. A few days after that the light came on and stayed on no matter what. So i limp moded back to my mechanic in which they said my intake boot was leaking due to age. So i ordered a new boot and changed it. To my suprise the old boot had a 1 inch whole in the bottom that i couldn't see when it was in the car. So one would think, "yay you did it you found and fixed the problem, cue happily ever after." Wrong. the car start working again. but randomly it throws the code that it has lost vacuum pressure. It is gotten to the point that it throws the code every time i drive but at random times. My mechanic says he fixes it every time i take it in, by cleaning the Mass airflow sensor. But that isn't the solution as the problem keeps reacuring. Somebody please tell what the heck is wrong with this car. i have tried everything i can think of and im considering biting the loss and scraping this car for whatever someone will give me for it.
 

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First, and no offense intended, I think considering scrapping the car over this is an overreaction. If the engine runs good otherwise and doesn't use a lot of oil it would be crazy to scrap the car. The other point is that I think you need to find a different, and better mechanic. It seems like more than a coincidence that all your troubles started after he serviced the intake -- which I think is of dubious need and worth on an Element. They're just not known for the intakes getting all 'carboned' up. I also wonder why your mechanic only happened to notice the leaking intake boot sometime AFTER he serviced the intake. Not to mention he keeps cleaning the MAF with the same unsatisfactory results.

Wherever you live, hopefully there are some good independent Honda shops that will be able to diagnose your issues and fix them correctly the first time. I would use the internet to find such shops and research the reviews for each shop. It sounds like your mechanic is practically guessing what the problem is and is happy to throw money his way to find it. A good shop that specializes in Hondas and/or Japanese cars should be able to isolate, diagnose and repair your problem(s) very quickly and the first time. In any event, good luck moving forward.
 

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Hi,
I hate sayin this but after what you explained about your "Mechanic"...
You would be better off taking it to a Honda Dealer and get the bleeding stopped, so to speak!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First, and no offense intended, I think considering scrapping the car over this is an overreaction. If the engine runs good otherwise and doesn't use a lot of oil it would be crazy to scrap the car. The other point is that I think you need to find a different, and better mechanic. It seems like more than a coincidence that all your troubles started after he serviced the intake -- which I think is of dubious need and worth on an Element. They're just not known for the intakes getting all 'carboned' up. I also wonder why your mechanic only happened to notice the leaking intake boot sometime AFTER he serviced the intake. Not to mention he keeps cleaning the MAF with the same unsatisfactory results.

Wherever you live, hopefully there are some good independent Honda shops that will be able to diagnose your issues and fix them correctly the first time. I would use the internet to find such shops and research the reviews for each shop. It sounds like your mechanic is practically guessing what the problem is and is happy to throw money his way to find it. A good shop that specializes in Hondas and/or Japanese cars should be able to isolate, diagnose and repair your problem(s) very quickly and the first time. In any event, good luck moving forward.
The mechanic i chose is the best rated japanese import shop in my city. I guess i'll have to look around. THX for your help
 

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Asking about a performance problem that sets a fault code is pointless without posting the code number, the exact code description and in which module it is stored. Otherwise all is guesswork. I do not care how highly your theoretical mechanic is rated he does not seem to know what he is doing, other than selling services that may or may not be needed. Stop throwing parts and find somebody who knows how and is willing to find the actual fault.

Rant over.
 

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You're going into limp mode... It's a clogged VTEC screen (there are two) or a VTEC solenoid OR the wrong weight of motor oil (screws up VTEC) clean the screens first.. they are picky.. one on each side of the engine near the front, then do an oil and filter change with the oil weight on the filler cap... NO OTHER WEIGHT
 

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You're going into limp mode... It's a clogged VTEC screen (there are two) or a VTEC solenoid OR the wrong weight of motor oil (screws up VTEC) clean the screens first.. they are picky.. one on each side of the engine near the front, then do an oil and filter change with the oil weight on the filler cap... NO OTHER WEIGHT
It sure sounds like the VTEC problem I recently had. But the code was clearly shown, and I,a rookie, was able with the help of YOUTUBE to change it out. Now runs great...but it rides great on smooth roads, like hell on rough roads.
 

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How do you clean a MAP sensor?🤔
I was about to say "use any good electronics cleaner" but I googled it just in case my memory was wrong. (Missing a lot of sleep lately) I found quite a few supposed experts claiming to use things like WD-40 and other weird stuff which would pretty much destroy a MAP sensor.
If the person who cleaned the sensor earlier screwed it up with the wrong cleaner, it'd cause a lot of the problems mentioned in the original post and it probably wouldn't show any of the normal codes either as mentioned.
 

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Fill out your location so we can start the BIDDING WAR!!!
Or at least we'll know the city that has a fairly crappy mechanic rating system...you use yelp, google, or word of mouth?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You're going into limp mode... It's a clogged VTEC screen (there are two) or a VTEC solenoid OR the wrong weight of motor oil (screws up VTEC) clean the screens first.. they are picky.. one on each side of the engine near the front, then do an oil and filter change with the oil weight on the filler cap... NO OTHER WEIGHT
ok THX
 

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Discussion Starter #13
THX to 4starz. he found the solution. I had the oil in my car checked and it was the wrong weight, I'm not sure who put the wrong oil in my car im assuming the previous owner. I guess this is why it is always recomended to change the oil immediatly when you buy a used car. I flushed all the wrong oil out and put the proper oil in myself (i no longer trust my mechanic). the vehicle functions fine now. However im confused on how the only way the car said something was wrong was a vaccum leak code and not a code for faulty oil or something. Either way im still learning and i hope this car will serve me well. I plan to take care of it to the best of my ability. THX again to everyone taking the time to help with my problem.
 
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