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Real Intermittent Wipers

134944 Views 225 Replies 65 Participants Last post by  wannahonda, 
bh241
19
DIY circuit info moved to a separate thread.

Summary
Updated August 23, 2010

The following encapsulates information from subsequent posts. BH241 pioneered this modification and started the thread; other members contributed information about parts and procedures. —Ramblerdan


Tools and Supplies

• About 3' of dual-conductor wire, preferably color-coded
• Medium Phillips screwdriver
• Very small slotted screwdriver
• Wire cutter
• Wire stripper
• Crimper (if using crimp-style butt connectors)
• Wire connectors: Posi-Lock or crimp-style butt connectors, small wire nuts, or equivalent
(Alternately, a soldering iron or gun, solder, and electrical tape or shrink tubing)
• Continuity test light or VOM to check connections (recommended)
• Small zip ties or electrical tape
• Tiny jeweler's screwdriver or equivalent (if removing pigtails from a donor X connector or a Metra 71-7992 connector)


Parts

• 2003–08 Pilot wiper switch, Honda p/n 35256-S9V-A01
• Two pigtails for the switch connector
• Two pigtails for the X connector at the back of the under-dash fuse box

For the switch connector pigtails, you can use either Honda p/n 04320-SP0-A00 or 04320-SP0-B00. The terminals are the same on both parts. The wire gauges differ slightly, but either will work. It might be advantageous to have both, for color-coding purposes. If pigtails are unavailable, use terminal 07JAZ-001090A (for thicker wire) or 07JAZ-001250A (thinner) crimping onto your own wire.

For the X connector, you have these choices:

a) Terminals with wire stubs from the X connector of a donor (junkyard) car. This is a sure bet, and each connector contains several usable parts.

b) Pigtails removed from a Metra 71-7992 connector. The 71-7992 has the advantage of being readily available, and each connector has eight of the small pigtails. The 7992 terminals don't snap smartly into the X connector the way the Honda part does, but they do work. You will have to file, cut, or fold over the tabs on the back of each terminal to make it fit into the X connector.

To remove terminals from the donor connector, gently press each wire in toward the front of the plastic shell to unload the locking tab, insert a tiny jeweler's screwdriver or equivalent from the front to compress the tab, and pull the wire out the back. (Illustration below is for a different connector, but the idea is the same.)

Honda

c) Pigtails from a dealer's kit if you can match them to the ones on the X connector.

d) Honda wire terminals, p/n 07JAZ-001360A. You will have to crimp a wire onto each terminal.

e) Tyco part 173681-6, referenced below. This is available in reasonable quantitites only by begging free samples from Tyco.


Procedure
1) Remove the upper and lower garnish from the steering column.

Honda
2) Disconnect the wiper switch connector by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out.

3) Remove the old wiper switch by taking out two screws, prying at a point between them just enough to release a locking tab (arrow in photo below), and sliding the switch out to the right.

Gambling Element
4) Install the new wiper switch.
5) Remove the X connector from the back of the under-dash fuse box by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out.

Ramblerdan
6) Release the retaining tabs on the back of the switch connector and the X connector. (The tabs on the switch connector looks like those in the photos below and are released exactly as shown; the X connector is similar.)

Ramblerdan
7) Note the orientation of the terminals inside the switch connector and add pigtails to empty slots #9 and #10. Record the color coding of the pigtails.

BH241
8) Note the orientation of the terminals inside the X connector, and add pigtails to empty slots #3 and #4 (already wired in photo below). Record the color coding (or other marking) of the pigtails. If you are using pigtails from a Metra 71-7992 connector, you will need to file, cut, or fold the tabs on the rear of each terminal before fitting it into the X connector.

BH241
9) Replace the retaining tabs on both connectors.

10) Connect one wire between X connector pin #4 and switch connector pin #9. Leave enough slack for the connector to reach to the back of the fuse box.

11) Connect the other wire between X connector pin #3 and switch connector pin #10.

12) Check continuity between X connector pin #4 and switch connector pin #9, and between X connector pin #3 and switch connector #10 (recommended).

13) Reinstall the X and switch connectors, secure the wire, and reinstall the steering wheel garnish.
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bh241
2
How about an interesting twist of this whole concept.

I just finished installing a 2006 Honda Pilot wiper switch on my Element. It's part # 35256-S9V-A01. I bought it from Honda for $36.00 give or take.



Here's the deal, this thing bolts right up, you have to run two wires from the additional two terminals on the switch ( # 9 & #10 ) to the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box connector X ( pins #3 & #4 ). Granted it's a royal pain in the ass to get to since it's in the rear of the UDFR Box, but it's about as easy a way to get real intermittent wipers in the Element as I've seen.

Why didn't Honda do this to begin with? or at least offer it as an option?
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_jea_
Wow, this looks cool! Would it be easy for a biologist to install it?
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T
Wow thats nuts, I have to have one :)
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box-E
Your kidding, it was that easy:-o, bad Honda:-x. Thanks for posting and thanks for the part number. Do you think it's any different on an 07?:confused: Drew:)
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bh241
box-E said:
Do you think it's any different on an 07?:confused:
Click to expand...
Shouldn't be any different. The same part # is in the '08 pilot, and the E's hasn't changed.

I really don't see why this wasn't put in the E to begin with, what would the cost have been anyway? The part was readily available, the MCU doesn't need to be modified, the only real addition would be two wires...

Maybe next they will put it in the '09.... would be a nice "upgrade"
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NismoGriff
Now this is what I am talking about. I had built the other circuit but never installed it yet because I didn't really like the idea of a random knob/box mounted on the dash some place. I had done something just like this on the wife's Mazda Protege 5 using a control stalk from an MPV van. I will defintately be ordering one one of these switch's. Thanks!! On another note, do you have a diagram of what wires I will be accessing when I install this....I have yet to purchase a FSM :oops:
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bh241
4
NismoGriff said:
do you have a diagram of what wires I will be accessing when I install this....
Click to expand...
That's the funny part... the wires are not in the harness! You'll have to run two wires from the UDFR's "X" connector on the back, to the two additional pins on the Pilot's switch.

Just run a couple of wires, connect the UDFR's "X" connector pin # 4 to the new Pilot's switch pin # 9, and the UDFR's "X" connector pin # 3 to the Pilot switch pin # 10.

yes, it's a royal pain to do.... especially for a middle aged (maybe a tad more than middle.... :roll: ) guy....

The "X" connector:


Yes, it's located on the back of the UDFR Box


Here's the two wires in place:


The two wires need to go up to the Wiper/Washer Switch.


I would recommend going to Honda and trying to get the 'pigtail' connectors - I didn't but then again, I do work in an electronics shop. :wink:
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NismoGriff
Thanks for the pics bh241, that rocks!! I highly doubt I will try to get the pigtails from Honda. I have quite a few incomplete Honda engine and interior wiring harness parts at my shop. I am sure I can find the appropriate pins to remove from one plug and graft into the E's plugs. Oh and I agree, accessing the under dash fuse/relay box is a complete PITA :-x
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ramblerdan
Super cool mod, BH.
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Snuffleupagus
Nice! I may finally do this mod after all. Thanks! :)
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NismoGriff
I did this today and I thought it was VERY easy to do, but only because bh241 did the hard part. I DID NOT have to remove the under dash fuse/relay box. Since the picture of the box was posted, I was able to just reach my hand behind the box and unplug the needed plug. How did I know which plug it was??? Well, if you look at the picture bh241 provided, you can see that it would be the plug located in the lowest position and to the left of the box as you face it. What makes it even easier is there is a large harness that comes from the console side of things and heads towards the column, there is a small harness that branches off of this larger harness (right near the right side of the UDFR box) and runs up left side of the UDFR box and towards the back of it. You'll know your following the right harness if you find it attached (with a white pin type clip) to part of the steel structure right next to the UDFR box. From this "clipped" point it makes a small loop and plugs into the back of the UDFR box. This is the plug you would need to undo in order to add the two wires. Now, this was on my 04 EX 5SPD and I really can't see why any of the other year/model E's wouldn't be the same, but it would be nice if somebody else could confirm this.

Another note...the two wires that plug into the back of the UDFR box did not have metal pins that matched any of the late 90's Honda harness pieces I had laying around. I went to my local yard and grabbed a plug out of the UDFR of an 04 Acura RSX, it had the pins that I needed and was FREE!! The two pins that went into the back of the plug that plugs into the actual switch I had (hundreds of them) so those were easy. :wink:

Also, for those of you who have never "added" wires to a factory plug on a Honda....in most cases, there is a retainer on the plug that has to be removed in order to allow the new wires to be easily slid in. Once the wires are in, this snaps easily back into place. Be careful not to break this retainer when undoing it, it's not very thick plastic. Not having it would probably not be a big deal, but I like to keep things nice and neat :cool:

Actual work time I would say was about 35 minutes and that was soldering and heatshrinking the connections that I made. I also taped up the wires and taped them along the aforementioned harness so there wasn't any extra stuff hanging around.

Looks and works like factory. I think there are 7 positions on the switch that starts at about a 5 second interval and goes up to about 15 seconds. I almost can't wait till it rains to try it out :D

THANKS AGAIN BH241 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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bh241
NismoGriff is right, you won't have to pull the UDFR box to do this mod. I did, but it is certainly not necessary.

I would recommend getting either the correct 'pigtails' from Honda or going for the 'salvage yard' connector, either way, it should make the whole job a lot easier.

A word about how this operates, the Multiplex Control Unit or MCU (which is internal to the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box or UDFR box) is very similar (if not identical) to the one in the Civic. I don't have a lot of information on the thing, but hey, if anyone has one laying around, I sure would love to 'dive into it' so to speak... :rolleyes:

The MCU controls quite a bit of things, the intermittent wiper function included. Once one does this mod, the intermittent wipers will function like they do in the Civic.

From the Civic Owners Manual:



The section "On models except EX and Canadian LX models" describes how the original wipers function. The section "On EX and Canadian LX models" describes how the int. wipers will function once this mod is completed.

It really is a decent setup, I haven't had much - well any really - rain since installing the mod, but will do a better write up later on when I actually get some dang rain around here.

The mod really is fairly easy to do, I honestly don't see why Honda doesn't go ahead and do this, it seems like a 'no-brainer' to me. But hey, what do I know about building and marketing cars....


​
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NismoGriff
Yes folks, don't be intimidated to try this. I would say the hardest part of doing this would be removing the steering column cover, LOL. Believe it or not (if you've never removed a Honda column cover) it takes a little monkeying around to get the cover off without breaking the lock tabs on the cover. I've seen people get lucky and just yank on it and not break any, but I would advise to take your time and be patient.

Also, I had taken some pics to identify the harness I was talking about in my previous post, but somehow I managed to zap the memory card on my phone last night and lost almost 800 images and some video :sad: I will try to take some more very soon.

This is a great mod if you were really aggrivated with the almost never appropriate factory delay setting. If it never really bothered you, you will realize how pathetic it was once you do this. :wink:
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B
If possible I would like to see more on adding the wires to the connector. I understand you have to run 2 additional wires from the x connector to the switch connection and that you need to put the proper ends on them so they interface but are you saying that you switched the plug from the junk yard Acura and put it in the E by swapping out the wires or did you cannibalize the Acura plug for 2 wire end fittings?
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NismoGriff
bmwrider said:
If possible I would like to see more on adding the wires to the connector. I understand you have to run 2 additional wires from the x connector to the switch connection and that you need to put the proper ends on them so they interface but are you saying that you switched the plug from the junk yard Acura and put it in the E by swapping out the wires or did you cannibalize the Acura plug for 2 wire end fittings?
Click to expand...
I simply removed two pins out of the cut off plug so I would have two proper ends to solder to the wire that I used. I did this on the end that plugs into the wiper switch too, except it uses different style pins.
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ramblerdan
Got a new Pilot switch but can't find connectors or pigtails anywhere! No yards around here have any late-model Hondas (which I guess is a good thing in a way). Does anyone have a part number or source for the pigtails? I don't want to have to buy an entire wiring harness for a few pins.

I found part numbers for pigtails, but they're for the front-clip harness, and I have no idea which, if any, might be appropriate for the X connector or the wiper switch connector.

04320-SP0-G10 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
04320-SP0-K10 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
04320-SP0-N10 Pigtail (2.0) (BLUE)
04320-SP0-R00 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
04320-SP0-S00 Pigtail (0.5) (YELLOW)
04320-SP0-T00 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
04320-SP0-U10 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
04320-S5A-A00 Pigtail (1.25) (RED)
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bh241
Paul,

Do you know if these are the only pigtails available? If so it has to be one (actually two) of them.


I didn't order them from Honda, I actually took some from our electronics shop and 'modified' them to fit... 'kinna a custom job' so to speak.
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ramblerdan
Don't know more than I posted above. The electronics manual didn't help either.

An angel is sending me some pigtails. I'll post pics.
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Free_man_E
Does anybody have the pinout and wiring diagram for the
rear wiper switch. I'm thinking of using bh241's original mod for
the rear wiper and the Honda Pilot wiper switch on the front.

And out of curiosity is the Honda Pilot wiper switch that is used
for the variable speed a potentiometer or a decade resistor network?
And does anybody know the resistance range and between
which pins?

Also is there a wiring diagram available for the hole windshield
wiper system? I've been pondering experimenting with a Parallax
basic stamp micro controller to open up other possibilities.
For one thing I could add a pseudo random controll for the wipers.


http://www.parallax.com/
BS-I info > http://www.parallax.com/Store/Micro.../SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/3/Default.aspx
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