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I have a 2006 Element. The rear brakes have always made an off and on noise when I apply the brakes. The noise happens when I apply the brakes. It is a soft scrapping noise. You can only hear it from inside the vehicle not outside.
I just replaced the rear brakes and rotors at 37,500 miles. Now the noise is more consistent than ever. It happens both going forward and in reverse. A friend had a 2005 Element and he said it happened as long as he had the car. His 2010 Element does not make the noise.
Any ideas? Thanks, JM
 

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The rotors can collect a bit of surface rust in just a few hours, and will make a sound until the brakes have been applied a few times to clear off the rust. (For some reason the Element's rear brakes seem to be more prone to this than the fronts, though I have never seen an explanation why.) If you replace the pads but not the rotors, it will take a while for the new pads to wear in to the old rotors' surface irregularities.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I noticed the noise as I was leaving the repair shop . The owner of the shop, who is someone who has repaired our various cars for years came and checked it out. Put the Element on the lift and did two test drives. He could find nothing wrong. The rotors are new. Could the pads be put in wrong? I don't know if they are Honda pads or after market ones. Would that make a difference? It is quite annoying. JMack
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have 216 miles on the new brakes. Mostly driving on Rt.1 through small towns. New England terrain up and down, straight aways and curves. No city stop and go. JMack
 

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Rear Passenger Braking Problem???

About a month ago i bought the car of my dreams, a honda element!!! I was so excited and the car was perfect! about three weeks ago, a grinding noise would come from the rear passenger wheel when braking. I can only hear it with the windows up and music off, but it is very noticable. its a 2006 exp AWD.... I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as the rotors needing resurfacing. After they tried to charge me 450 for the job and me spending an hour arguing.... They did it for free. My car was in the lot and the shop closed so i drove away... Still hearing the gush gush gush noise as i brake...???? The braking was much smoother but the noise is still here:( Any ideas or suggestions!? ALSO- i was told it isnt the differential fluid or the pads making the noise... Thanks
 

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Bad Design?

:x

This is why I joined this group. I wanted to find out if I was the only one with this problem. I have a 2003 Elly, with 230,000 miles,manual stick on it. Like it so much I bought another 2008 for my wife, a pretty green one....

My biggest problem is the rear passenger brake, in 230K miles the dealer has not gotten it right. Every time I take it in... it's a $500 dollar bill. Break and rotor is shot (ding) another $500 dollar bill. This has happen 5 times on the same brake passenger rear...what? Today it's making the same noise again... here is another $500 bill. $3000 just in brakes since new. I argue every time, and have become quite a pain for my dealer. The kicker is the front breaks have never been changed in 230K miles. They can not explain why that one brake keeps going bad. Maybe winter salt in Ohio getting into the pads, and sticking , and not releasing... maybe. I was told after 7yrs that I should come in all the time for a maintenance procedure on the brakes. It's not in my manual, but that was his answer, point is why didn't I bring my elly in for brake maintenance once every 3 months. (Reason it is $500 bucks every time I bring it in.)

In 60 K miles my 2008 (Ellen)had even wear on breaks, and cost $500 bucks, cause they ate the rotors.

BTW the engine and transmission is great, keeps on ticking, going to take Elly to Florida after the brakes are fixed Cha-ching







About a month ago i bought the car of my dreams, a honda element!!! I was so excited and the car was perfect! about three weeks ago, a grinding noise would come from the rear passenger wheel when braking. I can only hear it with the windows up and music off, but it is very noticable. its a 2006 exp AWD.... I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as the rotors needing resurfacing. After they tried to charge me 450 for the job and me spending an hour arguing.... They did it for free. My car was in the lot and the shop closed so i drove away... Still hearing the gush gush gush noise as i brake...???? The braking was much smoother but the noise is still here:( Any ideas or suggestions!? ALSO- i was told it isnt the differential fluid or the pads making the noise... Thanks[/QUOTE]
 

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Is there any chance that it's the parking brake shoes? I noted on my E when I did the rears that the parking brake is separate from the hydraulic system completely. If those shoes have collected trash, or rust has formed in the hub drum, you could experience a grinding noise.
 

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Hey RobertRist... I bet the problem isn't the rear passenger brake. I bet it's the other three not working correctly causing the rear passenger brake to do most of the work.
 

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brakes

The brake pad carriage is very close to the rotors both on the ends and on the inside of the rotor. rust builds up (In VT) on the rotor and it becomes larger and the rust rubs on the carrier.
I have this all the time.
 

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I have to get the rear rotors and pads replaced on my 2006 Element every 8 to 12 months. They say you are supposed to come in to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months. (at a cost of @ $150.) I have never had a car where you had to continually have the brakes adjusted or they wear out completely! I think it is a fault in the vehicle design, but they won't admit to it. Why else would you have to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months.
 

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I have to get the rear rotors and pads replaced on my 2006 Element every 8 to 12 months. They say you are supposed to come in to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months. (at a cost of @ $150.) I have never had a car where you had to continually have the brakes adjusted or they wear out completely! I think it is a fault in the vehicle design, but they won't admit to it. Why else would you have to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months.
No expert on brakes here but I think you need to find another mechanic. The one you have now sounds more like a slow-motion mugging.
 

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You might want to try replacing the caliper slide pins and boots. I changed mine and all of those noises went away.
 

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I have to get the rear rotors and pads replaced on my 2006 Element every 8 to 12 months. They say you are supposed to come in to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months. (at a cost of @ $150.) I have never had a car where you had to continually have the brakes adjusted or they wear out completely! I think it is a fault in the vehicle design, but they won't admit to it. Why else would you have to have the brakes "adjusted" every 6 months.
Who is "They"?
Wow! No car has adjustable brakes anymore.
 

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There is nothing wrong with the design.

Unless you drive 100,000 miles a year, rear pads should not wear out in that time. So there may be something wrong with your setup (seized slider pins, bad caliper or flexible line) that simply replacing pads won't fix. There is no adjustment on the calipers/pads, and the parking brake only needs to be adjusted when the rotor is removed, again about every 80-100K or so.

Possible wallet flush. Educate yourself on how these brakes work so you can speak competently to your (next) mechanic when he shows you what's wrong.
 

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same problem rear right: a hushing sound not when braking but when taking a fast right turn - in the end I think it is the pads & rotor making contact because they are too close; I replaced on advice of the mechanics the brake cylinder, because it might be rusty ( brake-oil attracts water, funny) and not getting back properly in its seat, but that did not help. (just a little bit). So now I am taking my right turns at a bit slower speed.
 

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The rear brakes on the element are known to have issues if you happen to live in the rust belt - per what I've read here and what I've experienced.

Its typically the caliper seizing (either the piston bore or the slide pins) and/or the brake line collapsing. I've had one of each happen. Easy way to identify this is to measure the temperature of the brakes after driving. Last time this happened to me, the bad corner was up to 500* while the other corners were barely seeing 200*F. Of course, the steam billowing from that wheel after driving through a puddle, and the smell of burning brake pad were other clues ;)

I'd hate to deal with a shop that doesn't spend the time to fully diagnose the issue and just throws a new set of rotors/pads on the rear once a year at your expense. Ive found its a simple and cheap job if you DIY... A reman caliper is $60, a brake hose is $20, pads and rotors for one axle are $100...
 
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