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And the Febest parts are out of stock everywhere...

I guess I need to jump on them when I see them for sale.
They pop up unexpectedly. I ordered my second one from Febest in Estonia (yes, Estonia). A day after I did that, 2 popped up on Amazon. Check every couple of days.
 

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I also found them on ebay from a seller that has apparently sold 33 of them so far. Unfortunately that seller is out of stock now too.

Thanks.
 

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From the Amazon link
(The Febest Number is HAB-003. This fits the following cars: HONDA CIVIC EU/EP/ES 2001-2006, HONDA INTEGRA DC5 2001-2006, HONDA CR-V RD4/RD5/RD6/RD7/RD9 2001-2006, HONDA CIVIC/CIVIC FERIO ES1/ES2/ES3 2000-2006. The compatible part numbers for this part are: 52370-S9A-A02, 0, 52371S5TA00, , , 52370S9AA02)

So if these fit the E then Energy Suspension and Prothane urethane bushings for these cars will fit also.
I have an issue with my rear arms & as soon as I can verify that its the bushings I may go this route.
 

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From the Amazon link
(The Febest Number is HAB-003. This fits the following cars: HONDA CIVIC EU/EP/ES 2001-2006, HONDA INTEGRA DC5 2001-2006, HONDA CR-V RD4/RD5/RD6/RD7/RD9 2001-2006, HONDA CIVIC/CIVIC FERIO ES1/ES2/ES3 2000-2006. The compatible part numbers for this part are: 52370-S9A-A02, 0, 52371S5TA00, , , 52370S9AA02)

So if these fit the E then Energy Suspension and Prothane urethane bushings for these cars will fit also.
I have an issue with my rear arms & as soon as I can verify that its the bushings I may go this route.
I was looking at those too before I found out about the Febest ones. I didn't really want polyurethane though.

Let us know how they work out!
 

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Thanks gd, I just ordered a pair.
Check the attached picture.

If you need help on new bushing install, I can give advice.

FYI, I replaced all rear bushings and rubber (minus the vertical rear differential rubber mount), sway bar links and differential bumpers trying the conquer the ever-present rattle and clunks over rough roads and rumble strips. This fixed some clunking but there is still rattling. After bumping the rear bottom of the gas tank with my fist, I think I have pin-pointed the location of the rattle. I know where it is now but not what it is. Dropping the tank is a job for another day. :|
 

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Wow, thank you for the help already! I may ask more questions when I get into the job.

Too bad you still have a rattle, hope it's not too tough to fix. Did you also replace the rear struts?
 

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Wow, thank you for the help already! I may ask more questions when I get into the job.

Too bad you still have a rattle, hope it's not too tough to fix. Did you also replace the rear struts?
I sure did. That was the first thing I did.
 

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Just chiming in after reading this thread. I have a seized toe bolt and have been trying to find the best way to replace it. I’m also facing the reality of likely having to replace the rear bushings but may try and cut the bolt first.

Either way, gd500... have you tried replacing the rear sway bar bushings? From what I’ve noticed Elements are notorious for them drying out and making the mysterious clunk you speak of. I replaced mine and it was gone. I swore the sound was coming from the spare tire well but sure enough, it was those damn $5 bushings. Also the end links are another possible culprit.
 

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Replace Rear Bushing to straighten up wheels

Is this the bushing you would need to replace to straighten up the rear wheels? I've had 4 Elements and after time, they all have the rear wheels bowing out. I had a private mechanic for 20 years and I took it to him and he knew immediately that the rear bushings needed to be replaced. Straightened the wheels right up. He retired. I have a 2010 Element that has the same bowing issue. I took it to the dealer and he had no idea what I was talking about. His shop manager was not familiar with this kind of repair and the service rep asked me if I could tell him what bushing needed to be replaced. I haven't climbed under the car recently, but I'm thinking this is it. Yes? No?
 

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So I tackled the drivers side this past weekend and it was easily the hardest job I've ever done. I ran into some major rust on the Rear Trailing Arm body mount. The nut on top of the spacer inside the body mount was spinning so I cut a hole in the body to get a wrench on the nut. Even then I was only able to get it out as far as you can see in the pic. I then cut the bolt.

Removing the stock bushing from the RTA was not too bad. I cut both sides of the flange off, then used my drill to drill out the rubber between the inner and out parts of the bushing. I was then able to slip the inner part of the bushing out, and the out parts came out rather easily after that.

Removing the strut bolt from the RTA was the hardest part of this job. I started by cutting the strut and getting it out of the way. Then cut the rubber part of the strut bushing to reveal the inner metal bushing that was frozen to the strut bolt. I cut this as far as I could with a cut off wheel, that exposed a little bit of the rusted bolt. I used an air chisel and sprayed PB Blaster in the cut. Finally the inner bushing would rotate on the bolt, but the bolt was still frozen to the RTA nut, which is welded to the arm. I used my small MAP gas torch and heated the hell out of it and finally broke it free with the impact gun.

I'll take some pics of the bushing install this weekend when I do the passenger side. Basically, I used a hose clamp to compress the bushing, and a rented ball joint tool to press the bushing and flanges in. The key points are aligning the bushing to the arm, and also the metal flanges to the arm. This needs to be marked before you remove the old ones. Also, the flanges do not get pressed into the bushing all the way. I took a measurement of the old flange to flange distance to get that dimension, though there is a little room for error since the flange bolt holes are a little elongated.

I had a friend bring a welder over to repair the body using some big and thick washers. He has a better welder at his shop and said to bring it down for some finish welding, but for now I think it is strong enough for the drive there.

The passenger side has no rust and both RTAB bolts came right out. I checked to make sure.
 

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Thanks, I did buy the Roca ones about a month ago, they were in stock then, was just curious what others use, and especially how they perform over time. The Roca bushings I installed on the driver's side last summer are doing fine so far, and the pass side original ones are still silent, but I imagine I will be replacing them in not too distant future - the car has about 170,000 mi on it.
 
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