I’ve heard there is a company that makes resistors that plug into the disconnected SRS connector to make the SRS module think the removed component is still there. We have a diag tool here that does the same but it’s pretty bulky.
No. The SRS system does a self diagnostic every time the key is cycled on. If it picks up a malfunction (in this case the missing passenger seat belt buckle) it will illuminate the light and disable the entire system. You need to be able to trick the SRS unit into thinking all components are present and functional. Only then can you clear the light and keep it off.So, maybe a dumb question, but does the drivers side airbag work if you reset the system… without the passenger seat in the car?
Diagnostic procedures on both the airbags themselves and the seat belt tensioner (buckle) call for use of the the Honda SRS simulator tool in the 2 ohm ports. As such, I’ll be making the bypass connectors using 2 ohm resistors and original OEM connectors. They’ll snap right in where the airbag inflators (or seat belt buckle) would have been plugged in.It would be great if you told us what the resistance was.
Yes, I’d be really interested! Thanks
You brought up something I hadn’t thought about. The bypasses I’ve been making are for the driver’s and passenger’s primary airbag inflators as well as the seatbelt buckle. The older Es only have a single SRS connector under the passenger seat for the seatbelt buckle (like the ‘03 I’m making these for) so they can be bypassed with a single modified connector. The newer models added an airbag in the seat as well as what appears to be an OPDS unit. In your picture the yellow connectors are the SRS components. The far right connector is the seatbelt buckle for which I made a bypass. To trick the system completely on these newer model E’s like this we would need to have a bypass for each of the three SRS components that come out with the seat. The airbag and buckle I am confident I can trick. I’ll have to do some homework on the OPDS.I’m new to posting here. I’ve owned only E’s since 2004. Now prepping my 2010 for a 2 month road trip. Here’s a pic under the passenger seat. There are 7 connectors, 4 of which have to be released to free the seat from the wiring harness coming from the floor. From left to right, connectors 1,2,5, & 7. Does only one of those connectors need to be tricked into thinking the seat is still there? If so, which one? I am keenly interested in Chop_E’s bypass adapter.
I appreciate the interest. ChopTopChallenge starts on Thursday so I’m going to be occupied for some time. If I’m able to get this working for the newer Es I’ll post a separate thread so I’m not cluttering up OPs thread.Hello, I would also be very interested in purchasing this bypass for my 08 Honda element if possible! Thanks
Edit: just saw that 07-11 will require additional research, so no rush. But I would be very interested in purchasing if you are able to get this working!