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Spark Plug Replacement?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this has been answered before, I couldn't find a relevant thread with recent replies.

So according to the Maintenance Schedule, my spark plugs should be up for replacement soon (at 110k), so that's probably my next "project".

Looking at RockAuto, they stock the following types of spark plugs:
Which one would you recommend as new replacements? The Laser Iridium & Ruthenium seem to be similarly priced, while the Iridium IX is a couple $ cheaper per plug.

Thank you, and happy holidays.
 

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So RockAuto is saying the manufacturing also recommends replacing the spark plug boots when replacing spark plugs. What is this for, and is it necessary?
I didn't see anything about these in the 1A Auto tutorial video.
The boots don't need to be replaced on your e when changing plugs. The boot is what slides into the spark plugs hole and seats on top of the plug when it's installed and bolted up. Unless it's visibly damaged, or misfiring, the coils and boots are fine.
 

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Hi,
Spark plugs usually get changed at the 110kmaintance schedule...

Along with a valve adjust and replacing valve cover gasket and the round sparkplug tube boots in the valve cover.

This is usually done at one time.

 

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The boots don't need to be replaced on your e when changing plugs. The boot is what slides into the spark plugs hole and seats on top of the plug when it's installed and bolted up. Unless it's visibly damaged, or misfiring, the coils and boots are fine.
no, the boot also has a small inductive wire in it, replacing plugs and not boots is like replacing the plugs but not the wires, personally I'd replace them, cheaper than replacing a coil pack, hence tune up, not slap plugs in it c'mon they're like what 5 bucks each, can't tell you how often that aspect is over looked, that being said not all coil boots can be replaced, sometimes its part of the coil pack assembly, and the boots are not the tube seals you replace when doing a valve cover to keep plugs from getting an oil bath, unless you like your car to misfire, oh and if you do decide to replace the boots, be careful with the little inductive coiled wire that goes in, they are very fiddly
 

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NGK 6994, laser iridium are the OEM spec, dont forget to gap them, and no they are not pre gapped, all plugs need to be checked, unless its a dual prong or weirder setup electrode, dont quote me as im going from memory but I think the gap us suppose to be 0.039" to 0.043"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
NGK 6994, laser iridium are the OEM spec, dont forget to gap them, and no they are not pre gapped, all plugs need to be checked, unless its a dual prong or weirder setup electrode, dont quote me as im going from memory but I think the gap us suppose to be 0.039" to 0.043"
RockAuto says their gap size is already at 0.044". What is the procedure to check that before installation, with some calipers?
 

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you need a spark plug gapping tool, there are some you can get from auto parts store, they look like a weird coin, dont get the type that have wires sticking off them, basically you very gently bend the electrode to proper size, I also verified the gap should be 0.039" to 0.043" or 1.0mm to 1.1mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you need a spark plug gapping tool, there are some you can get from auto parts store, they look like a weird coin, dont get the type that have wires sticking off them, basically you very gently bend the electrode to proper size, I also verified the gap should be 0.039" to 0.043" or 1.0mm to 1.1mm
Something like this tool? https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Basic-Spark-Plug-Gauge/1003096240?

Also, where did you find the gap should be 0.039-0.043", in the service manual?
 

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Something like this tool? https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Basic-Spark-Plug-Gauge/1003096240?

Also, where did you find the gap should be 0.039-0.043", in the service manual?
yes and yes, trust me I'm not pulling any punches, that is the proper spec and I would also encourage using the NGK 6994 series laser iridium plugs, unless you buy factory denso plugs from Honda, and always check the gap, little bit of anti seize is always good, and a pea size blob of dielectric grease on the coil boot end, I would also recommend replacing the coil boot at the same time
 

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yea the factory cool boots are almost "glued on so they can be a little hard to remove but they are serviceable, there isn't too much to do for tune up on newer cars, but its still important to keep them running well. I also really like seafoam fuel system cleaner for keeping the engine and injectors clean, you can also use seafoam as an engine oil flush, I believe you add 1oz of seafoam per quart of oil that the car holds, most elements are 4.5 to 5qts depending, so add 5oz of seafoam to the oil right before you change it, dont drive with it in the engine! you just add it and let the rig idle for ike 30min before draining it out. I've done this to rigs with crazy high mileage and you should see what comes out! its nasty! but like I said if you want to do that you don't drive around with seafoam in the crank case, you add it just before you change the oil, you can add seafoam to the tank and drive around let it work its magic. change plugs and coil boots, new air filter, clean the throttle body, service battery terminals, and check to make sure you don't have a bunch of gunk in the PCV valves or hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yea the factory cool boots are almost "glued on so they can be a little hard to remove but they are serviceable, there isn't too much to do for tune up on newer cars, but its still important to keep them running well. I also really like seafoam fuel system cleaner for keeping the engine and injectors clean, you can also use seafoam as an engine oil flush, I believe you add 1oz of seafoam per quart of oil that the car holds, most elements are 4.5 to 5qts depending, so add 5oz of seafoam to the oil right before you change it, dont drive with it in the engine! you just add it and let the rig idle for ike 30min before draining it out. I've done this to rigs with crazy high mileage and you should see what comes out! its nasty! but like I said if you want to do that you don't drive around with seafoam in the crank case, you add it just before you change the oil, you can add seafoam to the tank and drive around let it work its magic. change plugs and coil boots, new air filter, clean the throttle body, service battery terminals, and check to make sure you don't have a bunch of gunk in the PCV valves or hoses.
Thanks for the suggestion. Is this the product you are talking about, and the instructions on how to use it?
How to add Sea Foam Motor Treatment to crankcase oil

NOTE:
Though Sea Foam can be added at any time between oil change intervals, we recommend adding Sea Foam to an oil crankcase 100 to 300 drive miles before changing oil and filter.
 

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personally I just use a measuring cup, and when I get ready to do an oil change, I just pour in 5oz via a funnel just like you would oil, I know seafoam says you can add it a few hundred miles prior but I just do it when I'm about to change the oil, like car in the garage, add seafoam then I just let it sit and run for like a half hour, I also like using WIX xp filters and full synthetic oil, either mobil 1 or valvoline, but amsoil, royal purple and redline also make great oil as well.

I've even done a back to back oil change on really cruddy engines to help flush the varnish and carbon deposits out of it, brand new oil comes out nasty with no miles on it, also you don't need to "flush" the engine every oil change, I do it like every 20-30k, I notice a difference for sure.

see if you add it and drive around, you can actually thin the oil so much you might lose oil pressure so just run it in the engine sitting static and idling, if anything just pour the rest of the can in the fuel tank and off you go! when added to the fuel system it helps clean and protect the valve train, upper piston and fuel injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
no, the boot also has a small inductive wire in it, replacing plugs and not boots is like replacing the plugs but not the wires, personally I'd replace them, cheaper than replacing a coil pack, hence tune up, not slap plugs in it c'mon they're like what 5 bucks each, can't tell you how often that aspect is over looked, that being said not all coil boots can be replaced, sometimes its part of the coil pack assembly, and the boots are not the tube seals you replace when doing a valve cover to keep plugs from getting an oil bath, unless you like your car to misfire, oh and if you do decide to replace the boots, be careful with the little inductive coiled wire that goes in, they are very fiddly
Seems like RockAuto is out of stock of NGK 59025 spark plug boots, and only have the SMP or ACDELCO boots. Are the boots interchangeable/compatible between manufacturers, or is it required to use NGK boots when installing NGK spark plugs?
 

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standard motor products, SMP, is good aftermarket manufacturer. its not so much matching brand types as it is the application and quality of the part, I would go with SMP over AC Delco, but that's just my preference. as long as you use proper application parts, brand becomes more if a preference, personally i think NGK makes some of the best aftermarket plugs available, i put them in everything, yes chevys and fords and dodges, because most of the new domestic rigs run denso plugs or an equivalent built by NGK, so that tells me that denso and NGK know what they're doing.

or rather good parts aren't cheap, cheap parts aren't good and there's no point in doing something if your not going to do it right and go all the way, and dont pay a middleman when you can go straight to the source, ie why buy an AC Delco part when they're probably paying someone else to make it for them?

at least in this example of spark plugs, granted in another tangent some aftermarket companies are specific to the manufacturer, so chevy is AC Delco, Ford is Motorcraft, autolite is aftermarket, dodge is champion, and most euro cars were Bosch, most all Asian import vehicles run denso or NGK, there are others but i they may be cheaper off shoots from an established brand like tire manufacturers or battery manufacturers, anyways you'll be fine with SMP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Hi,
Spark plugs usually get changed at the 110kmaintance schedule...

Along with a valve adjust and replacing valve cover gasket and the round sparkplug tube boots in the valve cover.

This is usually done at one time.

Thanks for the video @seagiant

Which one of the following listed parts would you say best matches and/or exceed the OEM spec for Spark Plug Tube Seal? Or would you saw only stick with OEM part (Part No. 12342-PCX-004) for something this critical?

 

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beck arnley, fel pro, mahle/victor reinz, aftermarket brands that make good quality parts, most autoparts stores should have a valve cover gasket set that should have everything you need in one kit. you could go OEM but a valve cover gasket isn't one of those parts I would worry about, a vtec solenoid assembly, if it wasn't OEM then it would have to come from a very reputable company. just my 2 cents...
 

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Hi,
I went to my Honda Dealer, and bought the parts needed, for the Valve Adjust, the spark tube gaskets, and the valve cover gasket...

OEM and Fel-Pro, is the ONLY thing, for ANY gasket, for me!

Saw this!

 
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