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I've been contemplating replacing my struts on my 03 as well as all the bushings since I'll be ''in there" already.

@mr_manny is that pic with JUST that rear 10mm spacer and larger tires? No spacer up front?

I figure $150 for pair of kyb rear struts, $200 for pair of kyb fronts, front bearing $20/each, front mounts $30-40/each, rear mounts $20/each, spacers $100-150 for all 4 corners...I'm at $660ish plus my labor. This doesn't include replacing the rubber bushing for the spring contact points (which may be garbage at this point). Rear is now quiet now that I replaced the sway bushings/link ends but front has the dreaded squeaky bed sound at certain times.

Considered the BC Racing with lift set vs the KYB + spacer route just don't know if the extra $500-600 is worth the coilovers with swift springs. Just want to gain 1-2" of overall clearance between suspension and tires. Hate how low the gas tank/tank cage is.

Saw your first post of this thread was updated that you are going the KYB route @Colonel Monk . Are you also replacing all the rubber components like the bearing, strut mount etc?
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Howdy

Well I have a giant pile of autoparts in my garage. I'm about to start on the teardown....

My main question, is this - if I was to replace the front coilsprings as well, is there really a large difference between the front springs among years? My 2004 is commanding a large price of $130 each, and a 2006 spring for 4WD and 4spAT is only $48 bucks..... If they just tweaked the spring rate a little I'm fine with that. Maybe they realized it was a little weak or something.... I can see the springs for 2WD being a little weak but from 2004 to 2006? Thoughts?

Link to Listing Honda Element Coil Springs - Guaranteed Genuine Honda Parts

Link to 06 front coils https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~spring~51401-scv-a31.html

I went with the KYB struts - interestingly enough, from the time I put them in my cart to the time I pulled the trigger (1 month) they were designated as a distributor closeout and only have a 90 day warranty...... Not that I plan on them blowing, but I think that stocks of these parts are starting to run thin.....

Tie Rods and Ends
New Front Control Arms (mevotech)
Rear Control Arm Bushings
Sway Bar Bushings
Sway Bar Links
Wheel bearings
Struts
Rear Coils (so far)

What else? The plan was to leave no stone unturned, and not waste the wear and tear on my decrepit body just get 'er done. Oh yeah, I'm planning to do the tires in a few months. I have settled on the Michelin LTX - I tried to cheap out in my mind, but living in snow country and living in the country I just couldn't go the cheap route. Hopefully the car lasts long enough to wear them out.

CM
 
might as well change out those front lower ball joints while you are at it. maybe the engine oil switch thingy. serpentine belt. coolant. brake fluid flush. power steering fluid. hmmm.. valve adjustment *(I need this b/c my idle is hard every now and then)
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Howdy,

Yes, ball joints are part of the plan. I have had the valves adjusted at about 175,000 miles and it was running like crap. Now running good knock on wood, though for sure that engine is loose.....

I started on the project last week. Started in the right rear corner and got my bearings (no pun intended). Yesterday some hardware arrived from McMaster Carr I have a shop press but no tooling for it, so I got some fittings and stuff to use for pushing the bushings out. Some will need to conjure up a press out of threaded rod.

So far so good but haven't done the hard parts yet.

CM
 
Howdy,

Yes, ball joints are part of the plan. I have had the valves adjusted at about 175,000 miles and it was running like crap. Now running good knock on wood, though for sure that engine is loose.....

I started on the project last week. Started in the right rear corner and got my bearings (no pun intended). Yesterday some hardware arrived from McMaster Carr I have a shop press but no tooling for it, so I got some fittings and stuff to use for pushing the bushings out. Some will need to conjure up a press out of threaded rod.

So far so good but haven't done the hard parts yet.

CM
what did you pay to have your valves adjusted? thanks
 
how did the suspension go? This is on my 'get my element to baseline' plan. Slowly collecting suspension parts but haven't bit the bullet on KYBs struts + hats or Moog/equivalent fully assembled units.
 
Check out this thread:

 
Thanks for the link te1966, the gabriels seem like the 'best' all assembled strut.

I was hoping to use KYB struts and with the close out pricing on them I figure I can reuse the original coil/spring but should replace everything else.

  • 2 front struts (KYB 331046/47) (part 5 and 6 of pic)
  • 2 front mounting plate and bearing (KYB SM5403) (odd that its a single part where as others its 2 unique part numbers) (Part 9, 10, 11)
  • 2 front coil insulator (KYB SM5701) (part 2)

203782


  • 2 Rear Struts (KYB 344611) (part 3)
  • 2 Rear bearing (KYB SM5400) (Part 5, 9, 14, 15) Should be able to reuse my rear mount plate and just replace the bearings right?
  • Cant find part #10 at rock auto...maybe it's still useable.

203783


Is that everything for the struts portion of the suspension? Boots look fine, maybe the #8 on fronts and bump stop #13 for rears?

If that is everything, I can get for ~$350-400 for OEM quality struts vs $550 for the gabriels.

I've done plenty of springs swaps and what not, just wanna make sure I get everything I need before tackling this.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Howdy,

I'm still in process. Not just doing struts, but all of the bushings as well and that is a bigger job than it seems if your bushings are stuck on account of road salt.

I have a shop press and some of them have still been quite a challenge.

The only two left on the rear is the left trailing arm bushings. I should be reassembled in a few days.

I'm going to say not all were bad, but there was alot of noise back there and I decided that just having them all done was going to be worth it. Doing all the fronts as well.

I bought the KYBs. I guess I did so after reading some threads here about them being "stock" honda, and how some folks had not liked their Gabriels..... Probably should have gone Gabriel, I have nice spring compressor but not sure how good of shape the strut cap parts are. I'll be disassembling the old later this week and will figure out if I need to replace them or not. I'm hard on shocks and I have put this vehicle thru alot. I have owned from 33K to now 185K and have not replaced them yet. They probably needed it about 25K ago.....

CM
 
I would recommend that you replace the strut caps.
Mine also looked fine, so I didn't replace them initially (E has 77K).

Ended up needing to replace them a few months later.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
I would recommend that you replace the strut caps.
Mine also looked fine, so I didn't replace them initially (E has 77K).

Ended up needing to replace them a few months later.
Manny thanks for that info. What about them failed? I have hit mine some with a hammer to knock off some rust bubbles but haven't disassembled enough to see what else might be lurking.

CM
 
Was referring to the mounting plate and bearing (part# 10 and 11 from your earlier post).
Rubber developed cracks which made quite a racket on bumpy roads.
Sorry for the confusion Colonel :)
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Was referring to the mounting plate and bearing (part# 10 and 11 from your earlier post).
Rubber developed cracks which made quite a racket on bumpy roads.
Sorry for the confusion Colonel :)
Gotcha, I see what you're talking about.. I don't know what the honda approved terms are hahaha. I should take it apart tonight so I can assess condition.
 
Well I priced out the Gabriel fully assembled shocks ($510ish shipped) vs piecing together the KYBs + all the replacement parts ($630).

I may just go the Gabriel route and same myself $100ish and the hassle of disassembly and reassembling a strut.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
I could be full of uh, it, but IF you went the KYB route you don't necessarily have to replace all the other parts. Depends on the condition... They aren't perishable parts per se.

I just looked at Rock Auto, and if you buy just the struts you will have about $300 into all 4. You'll need a spring compressor. I thought the Harbor Freight one looked the safest, so I bought that for $32 bucks.

There are a fair amount of folks that say doing the springs is dangerous - and it def is if the compressor slips. Thats why I like the block design of the HF tool, and the safety pins. I think it's very important to tighten each side a little at a time to keep the coil centered and straight. If you do one too much it would cause it to slide off some of the spring compressors I've seen.

If something doesn't go right, it could well be worth the extra $200 bucks - but since you're taking the task on anyway.....
 
I've changed plenty of struts before on other cars, I'd just borrow the compressor from local autozone.
I would agree that not everything needs to get changed. I would just hate to take them apart and only have ordered the minimum, then have to wait for parts to come in. Engineer by trade so inherently want to change all the things haha.

I figure this list at a minimum for doing the struts

-4 KYB struts
-front top bearing/mount
-front insulator
-rear bushing kit
-rear coil bushing (#10)
-Rear seal/mount (optional? reuse OEM?)

This comes out to ~450 after shipping and tax. Not bad.

Should be able to reuse the coils, bump stops, dustboots, nuts/bolts?
Edit: Order placed for the list above. I've used KYB in the past and much rather have them considering they are the OEM version. Parts list grows. Now to add outer tie-rods, ball joints, compliance bushings, front sway bushings (did rears already) to the list for when I tear the front apart.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Howdy

I just went out to garage and took one of the rear struts apart. My car 185K and not treated too well, last 6 years in the rust belt (CA before that). All of the parts are in good shape except the paint on the part of the strut cap that is outside the car. Hit the rust with my welding hammer and it's still very solid, just enough oxide layer under the paint to bubble it good. I'll treat them and paint them well, put it back together.

The bump stop, and other washers and such were in fine shape. So was the nut, but it comes with the new struts anyway.

The dust seals came off with the strut, they seem reusable.

Good Luck! I bought new springs as my car has had a load in it for 10 years and the sagging problem is annoying... So I figured I'd try the MOOG springs hoping maybe they are made with faerie dust or something that will make it haul more gear.

CM
 
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