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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally attempted the drive belt replacement as part of a little preventative maintenance (66,300 miles !!) . The ONLY way I can see it being done is with a special tool designed to manipulate the Serpentine belt tensioner . . . I tried everything else; impossible access and leverage issues prevented normal tools (sockets, open ends, box ends, ratchets, breaker bars, ouji boards, etc.) from even getting close. :shock:

I ended up buying the tool at Pep Boys for 40 bucks; Lisle model 57900 http://shop.store.yahoo.com/bradystools/betoseli57.html

Purchased the belt from Majestic Honda (item #12 - $26.60)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Element&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=5DR+EX+4WD&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=A/C+++++COMPRESSOR


I don’t know why Honda doesn’t supply a belt routing diagram under the hood like most manufacturers so I made my own. I suspect because this removal is so tricky (and dangerous = missing fingers !!) that they don’t want DIY’ers messing with it. Nothing about it in the manual either, but here’s what you’re up against . . . :)



(Sorry, I don’t know what it looks like without the AC option)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

The procedure is fairly straight forward:

Need:

• Replacement belt P/N 38920-PZD-A01
• Serpentine Belt Removal Tool (with adjustable offset) and 14mm 6 sided socket
• 10 mm open end wrench

1. Turn front wheels hard right (or remove RF wheel) and remove the plastic access panel to exposed the main crank pulley
2. Using a 10mm wrench loosen (but don’t completely remove) the bolt holding the power steering line clamp on the fender wall. Moving the clamp and steel tubing around later on will help with a tight clearance when attaching the tensioner tool to the pulley bolt.
3. Assemble the tensioner tool with an angle (using the extension) and shallow (again, for clearance issues) 14mm six sided socket – see picture below





 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Procedure continued -

4. Attach the tool using the 14mm socket to the center bolt on the tensioner (yes, it is really tight in there).
5. Pull the tool towards the front of the E and the tensioner will rotate towards the rear and remove tension from the belt.
6. Slide the belt off the alternator pulley first and then the tensioner and S-L-O-W-L-Y let the tool and tensioner return to a neutral position.
(when installing a belt, the alternator pulley will be the last pulley that you slide the belt onto . . .)
7. Remove the belt from the other pulleys

Reverse the process for installation.
Having a helper and extra set of hands really helps on installation; just make sure everyone is communicating “where hands are” when the pulling tension via the tool. :)



 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Cool, thanks for the tips (and pictures) Box4Rox!! :)

It's good to see fellow EOC members who aren't afraid to roll up their sleeves and maintain their own vehicle - VERY Cool!
 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Great thread... I'm only at 10k miles so I don't need to do this yet, but when it is time I will definitely be looking this thread up. I need to do this on my Camaro as well - 216k miles and still going :shock:
 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Great pictures and instructions. I am nowhere near having to do it yet, but like damien, will be looking this thread up when the time comes. Thanks for the effort!
 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Very interesting, I see alot of attention went to just getting the tools.
Thinking - What does the dealer charge for this. Tanks for the pic's.
 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

I know it would cost about 90 bucks with tax to have it done at a Quickey Lube...I used to work in one. Do you know what size the belt is? I know it has 7 ribs but don't know the length. You could save some money if you bought a different brand of belt. Just a thought. I would go with the OEM myself.
 

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Re: Replacing the drive belt - how to

Best DIY tip on the site so far...glad to see your mileage is so far ahead of mine, DO PLEASE continue to blaze those trails!
 

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serpentine belt tool

Say, that tensioner adjuster tool looks like something a crafty person might put together with Home Depot parts for about 10 bucks. Any chance that someone who has bought one could provide some simple dimensions of the thing? And earn the gratitude of cheapskates everywhere?
At 40 bucks for the tool it's on the threshold of just letting the dealer do it (and taking responsibility for getting it right, and having someone else jam their pinkies into greasy metal spaces, etc.) Thanks.
 

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edmonds59 said:
Say, that tensioner adjuster tool looks like something a crafty person might put together with Home Depot parts for about 10 bucks. Any chance that someone who has bought one could provide some simple dimensions of the thing? Thanks.
Good point edmonds, my thoughts exactly. I guess $40 spread over 5 years is $8 a year. I suppose that's the way to look at it, even though you only use it every 5 years or so.

Hey, awesome writeup on this Box4Rox...I'm at 46K, so I've printed this out to contemplate next year. :wink:
 

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Thanks for this thread, what a great time/money saver! The tool mentioned is perfect for this job. At 50 bucks, I wouldn't call it cheap, but I am sure I would have paid the dealer at least that much and now I have the tool to keep and use on other vehicles as needed. Again, many thanks.
 

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Did it without the special tool

Your instructions were great!! Some places around here lend tools at the auto parts store and I was hoping I could get the belt wrench. They did not have one for rent or for sale. The local dealer was a couple of minutes away, so I went there to get the belt and figured I would find a way to get the belt on. I used a standard 14mm 12 pt craftsman wrench and half of the handle of my craftsman floor jack for leverage. It worked perfectly!!! I had tried first with a 6pt wrench, but because of placement I could not get enough leverage. I did not have to remove the 10mm bolt (although during belt installation I could see why you did it, the belt would hang up near there as you threaded the pulleys). Also I did remove the cover at the bottom-that was absolutely necessary.
P.S. I also printed out the diagram for routing the belt-didn't think I would need it-but it did come in handy as I found out later in the project.
Great job on the instructions!!
 

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Great write up!!!!!!!!!!!!! and pics too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At one time Goodyear had the Gatorback belts that had a lifetime warranty
(I know because I worked for a local GY shop). I can't remember how the warranty went on the labor part of it, sometimes CRS catches up to me. With only 13,000 miles, give or take a few on my 06, an OEM belt might be alright but I believe I'll go GY on this one when I need it. Also seems like NAPA belts have a good warranty also.
 

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Thanks Box4Rox, for the how-to, and thanks evilgriff, for paving the way I was going to go, tool-wise.

I can't find the belt at Majestic's site, and HandA don't have it listed. Is the Goodyear belt sold by Autozone and Checker likely to be as good as OEM?
 

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Maybe we should get a tool rental section here. rent the tool out to us EOC peeps and you'll recoop your money and we won't have to shell out the 50 bones.
Maybe 10 for the rental and 10 for shipping. Hmmmmmmm
 

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Well I just changed my own belt at about 60000 miles. Thanks so much for the pictures and advice. I probably couldn't have done it without the instructions. That belt tool is a must. I still had plenty of difficulty with space and I dinged up the bracket that holds the power steering line in place but it's all back together now.

Thanks again,
Jeremy
 
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