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I used to run royal purple in my camaro, until my buddy put it his cobra and it ate the cam chain guide away and blew his motor. So now I only run QuakerState High RPM's synthetic in all my vehicles, since all my vehicles see redline a lot when I am driving. QuakerState also seems to keep my MPG's the same over the 5,000 miles I run it as the RP usually decreased.
Later
Steve
 

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I've mentioned this on EOC before, but my sole experience with long-term RP is sort of firsthand, and definitely not good. A friend's Miata that I would occasionally fix minor stuff had a steady diet of RP "because daddy swore by it". Well, "daddy" was a classic Jaguar nut, and nobody in that crowd would know anything about long-term reliability if it bit 'em on the butt. But try telling her that. :-(

Anyway, the Miata engine's bottom end shot craps at around 150K. Now this engine is bulletproof, and well-known for 250-300K with reasonable treatment. So, essentially, it's my opinion/observation/whatever that she cut the engine life in half by running Royal Purple.

I don't get it, really, about RP. Amsoil I understand, more or less, as well as many of the other "fanboy" designer syn oils like Red Line and Mobil 1. But RP? I've never heard a single person with serious wrench time say anything good about it. They might be out there, but they've never crossed my path.
 

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I put Castrol Edge into my E for the last oil change. The only problem I have with Castrol Edge is that it's really expensive. It's 5w30, but after some research on bobistheoilguy.com the general consensus is that it's on the thin side of 5w30 and should be fine in a Honda Element. If you're really interested in understanding motor oil, I can't recommend bobistheoilguy.com enough - the members commonly run different oils in their engines for 5,000 or so miles and then send it off to a lab for testing and analysis.

I came to the following conclusions:
* Synthetics are made from non-oil products like natural gas and then chemically altered to achieve desired characteristics. This article isn't a bad overview, and has links to some of the popular oil brands at the bottom - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
* Amsoil, Royal Purple, and the other low-volume high-cost oils do not justify the price premium. I came across a couple posts on bobistheoilguy that referred to Royal Purple as snake oil.
* Mobil 1 is highly rated, should be about equivalent to Castrol Edge, is purchased by large numbers of people and can be had for about half the cost of Castrol Edge at Walmart (I paid $21.00 for a 5 quart jug). I'd consider switching back to Castrol Edge if it was available at the same price.
* There's not much information on whether Mobil 1 Extended Performance is actually better than regular Mobil 1, but the one test result that I came across suggested that the difference is negligible, if any.
* Pennzoil Platinum also gets good reviews.
 

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I use Mobile 1 and it seems to stay cleaner than the regular oil I used to use. I only change it when the E asks me to which is about every 7k..
I put over 250k on every car I own (that's about the time I smash em) without an engine problem of any kind using Mobile 1 so I'm going to keep using it.
 

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In our oil chemistry class, the instructor let us run tests on any oil that any student brought to class. Bottom line, Mobil 1 and Red Line were tied for first place. Regular motor oils from all the major oil companies like Shell, Mobil. PetroCanada, Esso, Castrol, all were all excellent and rated very close to the top of the tests for low/high temp protection of Mobil 1 and Red Line. Pennsoil and Quaker State were rated down below the majors due to contaminants like asbestos, that we assumed was being used in the filtering process. The other synthetics we tested like Castrol, Pennsoil, Amsoil tested no better than the regular motor oils, except for a slightly better lower temp viscosity flow.
 

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Did an oil & filter change on my wife's CRV and my Element, using Royal Purple oil and Royal Purple filter. I didn't have any preconception that I would actually feel a difference. I just thought I was doing a good thing for my car.

My E has 70k on it and I have always used Honda oil and filter. Well, after the change to Royal Purple, I was surprised and delighted that when I stepped on the gas that the car took off the way it did. I mean, I hardly had to press on the pedal (on level ground). I mentioned this to my wife and she said that she had noticed the same thing. She said that she can work the gas much more lightly now. Now THAT was really impressive, that she noticed a difference too.

I have never used a synthetic before on ANY vehicle, so maybe that's the difference... just less friction, perhaps. That's the only way I can explain it.

Now I want to use synthetics for every application that is possible. However, Honda warns against using anything other than Honda transmission fluid, Honda differential fluid, etc. I wonder if that is just advertising or not? Man, I wish that I had done this YEARS ago! (I have owned it since new).

What do you guys think? Can I use a non-Honda synthetic transmission fluid and rear differential fluid?
 

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.

What do you guys think? Can I use a non-Honda synthetic transmission fluid and rear differential fluid?
Never felt a noticeable difference before based on engine oil.

Honda OEM is recommend for transmission & rear diff. I have seen this stressed time and time again (Eric The Car Guy says the same thing).
 

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This is very disappointing news.

I just can't understand what makes Honda products so darn special? What makes the Honda transmission so different from everyone else's that it would require a fluid that is so different from all of the others?

Honda owner's manual says that you can use Dexron in an EMERGENCY but that it should be changed back to Honda stuff as soon as possible. Really?

I am going to look for Eric the Car Guys explanation for this.

I'm sad.
 

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This is very disappointing news.

I just can't understand what makes Honda products so darn special? What makes the Honda transmission so different from everyone else's that it would require a fluid that is so different from all of the others?

Honda owner's manual says that you can use Dexron in an EMERGENCY but that it should be changed back to Honda stuff as soon as possible. Really?

I am going to look for Eric the Car Guys explanation for this.

I'm sad.
Rear diff is a no brainer. It's Honda's part-time AWD differential so they make the fluid that works best for it.

Honda OEM transmission fluid works just fine. Only reason to change it is if you want to experiment in order to try to get less knotchy (smoother) shifts. I used Redline before on other vehicles with positive experiences, but did not feel that the E 'needed' Redline transmission fluid. Redline would likely make my shifting smoother after the fluid has heated up (and knotchier while cold), but my E is a truck and doesn't shift like a sports car so I just don't bother with non-OEM.
 

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Isn't that "Eric The Car Guy" the one that was telling people to put transmission fluid on the threads of new spark plugs before installing them?
 

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thanks...but does any one see difference's in running synthetic in the engines VS running conventional oil ?
No, if you're doing your changes regularly it's a waste of money to put synthetic in the E. Of course the syn folks will disagree but oh well.
 
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