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Hi All,

I searched all over and tried to find a thread that addressed seatbelt tension. I found a few but none addressed fixing or adjusting it, just offered hit and miss ideas like cleaning, a pad or foil?.

So I decided to tackle this problem myself. These are the steps I took. (sorry no pics)

1. I removed the driver side back door panel from the door. (pop off speaker cover...4 Phillips screws at speaker area, 2 Phillips screws behind the door handle latch, bottom seat belt bolt with a 14mm socket, one Phillips screw behind plastic piece at door handle and then popped the panel off the door)
2. removed the seatbelt spool mechanism bolts (2) with a 14mm socket thus letting the seat belt tension/spool/holder mechanism be removed from its nesting place in bottom of door.
3. removed the 3 t-20 screws/bolts from the white plastic wound spring tensioning part. (I took it off the metal spool but you don't have to)
4. I re-inserted the white spring tensioner onto the little starred gear and turned the white tensioning device, while holding the spool in my hand, counter clockwise until it started to provide enough energy to return the seatbelt back into the spool. I gave it an extra two turns and re-seated it back into the metal mechanism/spool and re-installed the 3 torx screws/bolts.
5. Re-assembled everything in reverse order. (make sure you don't flip/spin the seatbelt when re-installing into the nest or it will be twisted) This took about 20 minutes from start to finish not having a clue what I was in for. It was actually a very easy fix.

Now the seatbelt returns back to the original position like it's suppose to and no more catching it in the door when shutting it. I was lucky and didn't over-tension it thus creating too much pressure on the driver's shoulder. Mine feels great.

I'm guessing that if you have too much pressure on your shoulder you could unwind (clockwise) the tension spring once or twice to relieve some of the pressure that makes it uncomfortable? You would just have to make sure you didn't release too much so that it would not spool back up.

Hope this helps someone, this website has saved me $$thousands$$!!! Thanks!!
 

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Thanks for that, Asparks65. I did the same thing on an AMC years ago, and that method does work.

However, anyone who considers taking this on should know that it's tricky, the spring is sharp, and any little mistake could ruin the part and/or send the spring flying into your face (so wear goggles). In other words, not a beginner's project.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! Just trying to give back a little.

Actually the spring is contained in a white plastic box about 3.5" x 2" x 3/8" thick. Its truly an enclosed spring and has a female star socket that sits on the 'axle' of the seatbelt spool to wind it back up when its installed on the metal housing on the side of the spool. Super simple fix.

NOTE: this is on a 2003 EX so some of the other/newer models may be different...

my bad, I left off my model and year, sorry.
 

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Thanks for that, Asparks65. I did the same thing on an AMC years ago, and that method does work.

However, anyone who considers taking this on should know that it's tricky, the spring is sharp, and any little mistake could ruin the part and/or send the spring flying into your face (so wear goggles). In other words, not a beginner's project.
I did this years back on a GM belt in a Suburban and the durn thing let go and tore my fingers up. DEFINITELY not a beginner's project!
 

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I got fed up after slamming my door on the belt for the billionth time, and ta-dah! EOC can fix it!

What are the odds on getting Honda to do this for free since it's part of the safety system, and I want to be lazy?
 

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coil spring broken?

Happy to have found on this forum (and confident to find it, btw) a way to tension the sloppy passengerside front seat belt I dismantled the cover of the backdoor and found everything as described, thank you. Anyway, the plug of the SRS system was not connected ( I wonder why and now know why there was a fault report on this item on the computer) and trying to tension the spring as described here, it just sprang loose when the tension was above a certain level. So I think something is broken inside and I just have to replace the spring in the white plastic cover. (there must be a history, seeing what has been done) BUT:
Here comes the problem. Seat belts are only sold as a whole, as far as I found out, and they are not shipped, because of the dangerous (explosive) SRS parts inside.
and I only need the coilspring in plastic housing.
does anybody have a suggestion where to find this part (which is not dangerous to send, I presume) and get it over?

EndoHerman
 

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does anybody have a suggestion where to find this part (which is not dangerous to send, I presume) and get it over?

EndoHerman
Endoherman

Are you the original owner, and did you buy it from a Honda dealership?

I am and I got them to repair a previous seat belt issue for free. Error code issue. I do a lot of service at the original dealership where I purchased in 2004.
 

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?

We took a swing at this today, and came up with some questions. We are working on an 06 EXP first, some it may be different than an 03.

1. disconnected battery to play it safe
2. removed panel
3. removed assembly from door

The white plastic cover doesn't seem to be T-20. T-6 and T-8 are too small. T-15 is too big. We have to go find some other sizes, because that's all we had.

We ARE talking about the right bolts, right? It's the only set of 3 in a white plastic cover.

We should be okay as long as wearing eye-protection and being careful, right? (The warning is scary)


FYI, large bolts on assembly, per manual, are 24ft/lb.

IMG_8478.jpg

IMG_8479.jpg

IMG_8481.jpg

IMG_8482.jpg

Thanks
 

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He is is the Netherlands....Might be a problem.
that's right; once I'll try to find the history of my E but now there are more common problems to solve.
Anyway, I found out that this coilspring probably is used in more Honda's like the CR-V so I am gonna try to find a part of a further demolished car.
 

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You dont want to open the metal case. Just the plastic part.
and just turning should be enough
Ok, on the 06EX it's a T10.

I didn't want to break or open anything I didn't have to and cause problems. So do I wind the white piece while yellow still attached, or do I separate the yellow and wind the white piece only? Both pull out ~1/4" from the assembly without totally removing them. They can be freely rotated together. I didn't pull them apart yet, in case I don't need to.

IMG_8492.jpg

Thanks
 

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Ok, on the 06EX it's a T10.

I didn't want to break or open anything I didn't have to and cause problems. So do I wind the white piece while yellow still attached, or do I separate the yellow and wind the white piece only? Both pull out ~1/4" from the assembly without totally removing them. They can be freely rotated together. I didn't pull them apart yet, in case I don't need to.
there is no need to separate the yellow cover from the white casing of the spring; you can wind the whole, a little bit lifted like you show on the picture, anti-clockwise to increase tension - don't turn to often, cause it gives the same effect as the winding up of old toy cars - a cracking sound and in the best case you can start winding all over, if it is not broken.
and then you fix it on again.
BTW: pulling the white-yellow casing out completely makes it unwind totally and then you have to start winding from the beginning but anyway you have to put it on the axis of the seatbelt and lift it a bit otherwise there is no way to keep the central axis of the spring fixed, if you see what I mean
 

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there is no need to separate the yellow cover from the white casing of the spring; you can wind the whole, a little bit lifted like you show on the picture, anti-clockwise to increase tension - don't turn to often, cause it gives the same effect as the winding up of old toy cars - a cracking sound and in the best case you can start winding all over, if it is not broken.
and then you fix it on again.
BTW: pulling the white-yellow casing out completely makes it unwind totally and then you have to start winding from the beginning but anyway you have to put it on the axis of the seatbelt and lift it a bit otherwise there is no way to keep the central axis of the spring fixed, if you see what I mean
When first opened, is tension the same as if completely unwound?

We wound it about 8(?) times. I tested after each 2, and the seatbelt seemed to function the same. He's going to test it for a week and see how often it still gets stuck, if at all.
 

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When first opened, is tension the same as if completely unwound?

We wound it about 8(?) times. I tested after each 2, and the seatbelt seemed to function the same. He's going to test it for a week and see how often it still gets stuck, if at all.
as far as I know, when you take the white plastic casing (incl.yellow cover) off,it shall/will be completely unwound - so then you have (after putting it back in place on the axis) to turn a-clockwise until you feel some resistance, I guess.
Mind you, I did not get as far as that because of the clinging sound of a broken spring :-( so it is a mere extrapolation of how it should work.
Anybody better knowledge?
 

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as far as I know, when you take the white plastic casing (incl.yellow cover) off,it shall/will be completely unwound - so then you have (after putting it back in place on the axis) to turn a-clockwise until you feel some resistance, I guess.
Mind you, I did not get as far as that because of the clinging sound of a broken spring :-( so it is a mere extrapolation of how it should work.
Anybody better knowledge?
We never fully removed it. I was just trying to get an idea if we started at "0" winds and wound 8 times, or if we started with something else, and wound 8 times MORE.

It sounds like the seatbelt is still flaccid. I guess we have to open it up again and wind more.
 

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*EDIT*

Ok, so we had a serious problem.

2nd Try:
We were going to unwind to count how many rotations we were at, total, and the cover got away and completely unwound. One of the yellow/white cover tabs untabbed, but we snapped it back on. We put the white cover piece back on, and wound it up, starting with the seatbelt coiled up to the not-in-use position. Then we tried the belt, and it would only extend about 3".

3rd Try:
So we unwound the white cover again, and uncoiled the seatbelt fully. Then we started winding the white cover, and letting the seatbelt pull in as tension was increased. When it seemed sufficiently tense to recoil the seatbelt fully, we discovered it wouldn't extend this time, at least not far enough to buckle, and makes a light 'clicking/catching' noise as it is retracted. The seatbelt uncoils fully , but stops early, about 6" from being able to buckle up.

4th Try:
Unwound everything again fully. We manually coiled the seatbelt about 1.5 times without tension/white cover. Then we secured the belt to NOT pull in as we wound up the white cover. We wound up the cover about ~22 rotations, where it seemed to refuse further winding. We had been stopped around 22 a few times before when playing with it, so that may be the actual limit. We secured the white cover, then released the seatbelt to retract back into the spool fully. It now pulls out to what seems like original length, and no strange noises when clicking. The battery was reconnected, and there were no warning lights on the dash. He's going to test it for a while and see if that solved the original retraction problem.
 
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