[westieterrier]

This has been a confounding issue for me and I'm hoping someone has any insights. So, I replaced both Strut Hats; both A-Arm Compliance Bushings; and only the drivers side Inboard Axel Boot (it was ripped, all others were fine) on my 2003 Element AWD EX with 99K. When I did the driver's side boot, I thoroughly cleaned and packed the Inboard Joint and rollers with grease to spec and it slid nicely into the transmission on install. I did not replace the tranny oil ring as it looked fine, though I have one arriving today.

Except for two (2) minor hiccups, the work went well and I followed the Service Manual to a T. My two mistakes were:

A) Passenger Side: I didn't properly support the passenger side knuckle when removing the strut and A-arm (one at a time, so I figured Axel would be supported by one or the other), so on reinstall I had to give the Axel, which I did not remove, a good shove inward to move the rollers up the Inboard Joint so I could align the ball joint to the A-Arm. The Inboard Joint Boot stayed in place and the Inboard Joint did not come off the Intermediate Shaft whatsoever.

B) Driver's Side: When I removed the driver's side Axel, I took the whole assembly off with the Knuckle and promptly dropped it on the concrete floor (they call me Butterfingers). It landed Inboard Joint face down right on the very tip of the shaft extending off the Inboard Joint. There's a little bit of damage on the face of this shaft where it contacted the floor, but none on the splines or anywhere else on the Inboard Joint (see pics). Again, I repacked the Inboard Joint; the marked Rollers went nicely back in place; and the entire Axel slid and clicked nicely in place.

When I test drove my E, all seemed well; no vibration; no clicking, clunking, etc. But, when I engage Park (P) on the transmission lever/shifter, it doesn't hold the E. It's like it's in N-neutral despite being in P. I topped off the transmission fluid, which was very low, and tried to reset Park with that trick of the key in the slot on the shifter cover; all to no avail.

I now have the driver's side Axel out again (by itself) and still don't see anything wrong with the oil seal or the splines, etc. inside the transmission case (see pics). I will replace the seal anyway at this point.

My questions: 1) Would the marring on the very tip of the driver's side Inboard Joint cause Park not to work? It doesn't even appear that the tip of the Inboard Joint Shaft has any job or serve any major mechanical function, correct? 2) Is it worth taking the passenger side Axel out to see if there's a problem there, even though that Axel was not removed and stayed pretty much undisturbed for this whole job?

I would replace the entire driver's side Axel or even just the Inboard Joint, but they are not available from Honda anymore. NOS versions are $1,000, and I'm not putting a new Chinese Axel on the E. It also doesn't make sense to put a junkyard Axel from a 300K E when mine only has 99K.

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to layout every step of the job in the hopes someone has any insights. I be truly grateful for them! Happy St. Paddy's day. P

 

[DCM]

Assuming this is awd, have you removed the driveline to the rear axle, to see if the front wheels alone will move the vehicle? That will tell you if both axles are properly inserted.
Also, that key slot doesn’t reset anything…it’s just there to enable you to take the vehicle out of Park, if you don’t have power.

 

[westieterrier]

Hi DCM, thank you for taking the time to read my post, which I've edited to include AWD. I really appreciate it! So, I think you are saying that if one or both of the CV Driveshafts is not fully inserted, that could cause the Park function in the transmission to malfunction (not hold the car). Correct? If so, that is probably good news as all I need to do is re-install the driver's side CV with a new oil seal, then remove and re-install the passenger side.

To test where the power is going, is the only way to disconnect the rear diff to remove the Propeller Shaft? Looks that way, but I thought I'd ask. Could I perform the test by just putting the E on four jack stands and seeing what wheels are engaged at idle in D?

Lastly, here's a close up picture of the driver's side Inboard Joint Shaft, bottom face. Do you think that this minor damage could cause it not to fully insert (see arrow)? The CV Axel clicks in nicely and holds as it should when I insert it into the tranny. Thanks again so much, and have a great weekend! P

 

[DCM]

Based on that picture, it appears that the spline has been spinning on the shaft…see how it’s worn the teeth in a radial pattern?

 

[westieterrier]

Thanks DCM, that is likely the answer. I won't even take apart the other side, or test the drive wheels by removing the rear Propeller Shaft, until I get a new Inboard Joint. New OEM front CV Driveshafts are utterly not available. So, what would you suggest from the following options:

A) Buy a used OEM CV Axel of unknown condition and swap out the Inboard Joint using the internal Rollers from my 99K E. My original Rollers looked great with little wear (see pictures);

B) Buy a Chinese aftermarket unit and swap out its Inboard Joint as a whole with said unit's Rollers remaining inside. Do you think such a part swap would be a perfect fit? Unfortunately, just about all of the aftermarket units I've seen have loads of bad reviews; and that seems to be the word on the street as well.

You have been amazingly helpful and cannot thank you enough! Have a great weekend! P

 

[ajchien]

Nice jackstands.

 

[westieterrier]

Nice jackstands.

Thanks. They’re US Jack Co. units made in Michigan.

 

[ajchien]

Thanks. They’re US Jack Co. units made in Michigan.

Here are mine… Sorry for sidetracking your thread. 😏

 

[westieterrier]

Here are mine… Sorry for sidetracking your thread. 😏

View attachment 220472
View attachment 220473

No apologies necessary AJ! They are great jacks. I also bought the 6 tons as well. Like almost $300! But what’s your life worth? I’m hoping they make aluminum ones at some point.

In addition to USA tools, I’ve been getting some Japanese-made pieces from a manufacturer called Tone Tools. They take forever to ship, but its really good stuff. P

 

[ajchien]

No apologies necessary AJ! They are great jacks. I also bought the 6 tons as well. Like almost $300! But what’s your life worth? I’m hoping they make aluminum ones at some point.

In addition to USA tools, I’ve been getting some Japanese-made pieces from a manufacturer called Tone Tools. They take forever to ship, but its really good stuff. P

You sound like the kind of guy that would appreciate the https://www.garagejournal.com/
website. Lots of tool talk there. Warning: the website will probably cost you some money, because people will often talk about tools you’ve never heard of before that you suddenly realize you want.