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25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After getting a lot of good feedback and a fair amount of questions I've decided to give more insight and instructions on my most recent build. Like most of us I researched as many build options I could find until I came up with a design that best fit my needs.

A few key points pushed me in this direction:

1. Collapsable so I can instal and remove it by myself.
2. Easy to store when Im not using it
3. As much head room as possible
4. At least 6' long
5. Must be as wide enough to use a full size mattress
6. The option for the passenger seat to recline while platform is transported.

-Plywood base:
(2) 4x8 3/4" plywood (I've seen builds that use only one board but I wanted mine wider and longer than everything I've seen. This isn't the cheapest option, and you're left with extra lumber but I was ok with that)

-Appx 6ft of 1x2 basic pine (added support for posts)

-(14) 1x2 metal flanges

-(7) 1/2" x 12" metal pipe

-Screws: 1-1/4", 3/4"

-30" door hinge


------After I made all my cuts I started mounting the flanges to the base. I bought 2 flanges for each post, one secured to the base and one will sit against the floor.

------Notice how the middle supports are NOT secured to the middle board. Thats because that you need it to swing freely to fold backwards. The long door hinge will secure it to the rear board.

----The front board (Board A) takes the most work. I mounted the flange so that the post sits inside the floor console between the front seats. I added a piece of 1/2" plywood I had laying around to add more height.......


----To keep the front board (A) secured snug to the middle board (B), I used a spring loaded latch that I had to special ordered from Lowes. Its called a "Stainless Steel Entry Door Night Latch"....

---After everything was assembled I wrapped the top of the base with 1 roll of $20 Outdoor/Indoor carpet from Homedepot. I used the extra to wrap the underside of board (A). I used spray adhesive and stapled the seams.



----Most builds I saw always planned for your head to lay at the rear and feet at the front of the car. I wanted it to be opposite of that so I designed it so there was a space between the edge of the bed and the tailgate. This makes closing the hatch and tailgate a lot easier by giving you a space to plant your feet while you lean forward to pull up the tailgate. I Also did the rear hatch DIY.


6 Posts
This looks excellent, very clean, I like the use of the pipes for support, as that really doesn't take away much cargo space under the bed. How's it working for you?

I am also looking to build something similar to this in my '11 E. If I go with somthing similar to your design, I would change this to keep the front seats upright and ready to go.

16 Posts
Nice build and great photos! I would consider using 1" PCV pipe for the upright spacers, instead of 1/2" iron pipe.

223 Posts
What happens in an accident? I built the Swerky design so that it is fully tied down to the seat brackets on the sides. I know it is not possible to take out and put in easily that way, but I felt the safety factor was more important. I CAN convert it back to OEM by just taking out the bolts that hold it in, but it will NOT come out quickly.
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