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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyone attempt to replace their starter on a automatic E ?

Do you have to take off the manifold ? or best to get it from the bottom ?

2003 E - ex, 76 k, Auto.

thanks,
Reno Jeff


........yes i posted eralier about the panic button thought it might be related.

.........until my lovely wife told me " oh yeah the ellie didn't start at the store a few days ago then it did after i tried again " "oh yeah it did it the next day also"

BRILLIANT !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Starter is out - was scratching my head looking at the back bolt until you posted.

Thanks for the quick info !


regards,

Reno Jeff

p.s. .....starter 135.00 @ Kragen auto W/24 month replacement.
 

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woh your starter too. i just replaced mine (literally today). I ordered from Honda and it hurt my wallet. $389 for OEM. I heard that Kragen actually offers a lifetime warranty. Hopefully this new starter will give me 136k miles of service as well.

I followed the factory manual and took the manifold off along with all the hoses and connectors on the throttle body. The inside of my intake was kinda oily. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner and a baby bottle brush, but I still wonder if my pcv valve may be bad. I do hear the valve click when i squeeze it's vacuum hose but maybe it still needs to be replaced.

I'm noticing that when the car starts now it sounds almost futuristic. It used to chug chug then start. now it's more like woosh car starts.

Note to Forumers: be very careful not to lose a piece of foam from a bottle brush when cleaning ur intake. i started noticing the foam getting smaller and had to shake out the loose pieces from the intake manifold. Has anybody tried the Intake Snake? It's made for cleaning carburetors/throttle bodies. Popular mechanics recommends it but it's like $80, i just used a $1 bottle brush from target and bought 4 of them.
 

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Note to Forumers: be very careful not to lose a piece of foam from a bottle brush when cleaning ur intake. i started noticing the foam getting smaller and had to shake out the loose pieces from the intake manifold. Has anybody tried the Intake Snake? It's made for cleaning carburetors/throttle bodies. Popular mechanics recommends it but it's like $80, i just used a $1 bottle brush from target and bought 4 of them.
Generic open cell foam and carb cleaner absolutely do not mix. The bits you shook out were because the cleaner was dissolving the foam. I realize the foam brushes are disposable, but I'd be a tad concerned that you are leaving more than little hunks of foam behind.

The "Intake Snake" is expensive for two reasons. First is that petrochemical-tolerant scrubbie material isn't cheap. Second is that the PM audience is a sucker for fancy-ish tools you use once or twice. :D
 

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Generic open cell foam and carb cleaner absolutely do not mix. The bits you shook out were because the cleaner was dissolving the foam. I realize the foam brushes are disposable, but I'd be a tad concerned that you are leaving more than little hunks of foam behind.

The "Intake Snake" is expensive for two reasons. First is that petrochemical-tolerant scrubbie material isn't cheap. Second is that the PM audience is a sucker for fancy-ish tools you use once or twice. :D
Note to self: baby products and chemical cleaners do not mix.

i wanted to ask how you clean your throttle body so i don't throw foam particulates into mine the next time?
 

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replacing starter motor

I have had a problem with starting on cold mornings. I have a new battery with clean terminals and ground. The initial crank will be very sluggish or not at all. Wait a minute and another sluggish crank will start the engine. This will not occur again throughout the day. Checked with my mechanic (had just had the vtech solenoid replaced, first time in the shop in 170,000 km). He asked around and heard that the starting solenoid goes on the E around 170k. Unfortunately the solenoid is in the starter motor. Total estimate under $600. I would do it myself if it wasn't too difficult. Has any one replaced the starter motor? I have been unable to find any posts on the subject. Thanks
 

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Solenoid usually wont slow down the starter. most times it just stops working. To me it sounds like you have a bad connection on a wire somewhere. I would look around the positives and the grounds to be sure you dont have a bad connection. That is a lot of money to drop and to find out it was not the starter.

John
 

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Yes, probably not the solenoid - bad solenoid and the starter motor would just not turn at all, but certainly could be the starter motor itself. Internally in the motor, as the brushes that transfer power to the commutator wear out - you get exactly the symptoms you describe.

According to a mechanics guide:

Sluggish or slow action of the starter motor:

a. Battery run down
b. Insufficient current flow due to loose or corroded connections
c. Brushes sticking
d. Brushes worn
e. Commutator dirty
f. Commutator rough pitted or burned
g. Armature or field coils defective.

At your mileage - guess would be the motor is due for reconditioning.
 

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removing starter motor

Thanks MKH. Everything is clean so I would agree with the brush or commutator idea. Now, how do I get at the little beast?
 

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I still say wiring. There are a lot of points in the wiring where you could have an issue. Have you checked at the starter to make sure it is receiving the proper amount of power it needs. All it takes is one bad connection.

John

Thanks MKH. Everything is clean so I would agree with the brush or commutator idea. Now, how do I get at the little beast?
 

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Best way to check your wires

Get a voltage meter and check the resistence of all the cables. If it is high you know it is a bad cable that might have some internal corrosion or damage. A load test would also give you an idea what is wrong with the starting system. The starter is held in place by two bolts, and is fairly easy to access. A rebuilt starter from NAPA should be about $250. Some starters require shims and checking with a feeler gauge to ensure that it is set square.
 

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Replacing the starter on the E is very simple, doesn't even require you to jack it up as long as you don't mind being a little cramped while you're working. Just crawl under, unbolt and disconnect the wires. Installation is the reverse of removal. Save's you a bunch of $$$ and will strenghten your bond with your E!
 

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Once you pull the starter, you can always take it in to most Auto parts stores, and they will load-test it for you to make sure it is the cause.
 

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starter

The problem with the testing is that it is only a problem on some cold mornings. Even then it is usually only sluggish on the first crank. Once contact has been made its good for the day. The cold morning suggests just a little less power is available to make the initial contact. I guess pulling the starter and checking the brushes is the next step.
 
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