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Discussion Starter #1
So, the E calls for 5W-20, right?

So here's my situation.

-I have 5 quarts of Mobil 1 oil left over from previous cars.
-3 quarts of 0W40
-2 quarts of 10W30

Mobile 1 website says no harm in mixing different viscosity bottles. See where I'm going? I'm a few hundred miles away from my 30K oil change.

Thoughts??????
 

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You can do that. You will not wind up with the recommended weight oil in it though. It MAY effect your fuel consumption slightly. Other than that, It's no big deal.

Dom
 

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You can do that. You will not wind up with the recommended weight oil in it though. It MAY effect your fuel consumption slightly. Other than that, It's no big deal.

Dom
I disagree. Do a search on line. This can shorten the engine life....A copy from a website:

Thicker is not better, no matter what your mechanic or engineer told you. 20W-50 has 40% more viscosity (resistance to flow) at operating temperature than 10W-30. This means that your engine has to work 40% harder just to move the oil around inside your engine. An engine with thick 'oil' produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life. A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy. And the engine will last longer too! This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities. Unfortunately, the rule that 'you can't teach an old dog new tricks' prevents many 'experts' from accepting the facts. Indeed, when I was a kid, it was Castrol GTX 20W-50 in every car I had! In the years since, I have been working in the automotive lubrication industry, (15 years now) have been on the engineering boards of several major motor oil manufacturers. I feel lucky that I was able to 'see the light'.

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

I wouldn't risk the chance. $25 for a $20,000 car? Buy the correct stuff....
 

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Assuming your E is "a keeper".....
just use up that mis-matched stuff in that Westy slug. I'll burn right thru it in no time. ;-)

Go ahead and mix and match however you want if its a lease or you plan on frequent trade-ins anyway....it'll never matter.

For someting inbetween....your call. I wouldn't do it....but I wouldn't blame ya either.
 

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I disagree. Do a search on line. This can shorten the engine life....A copy from a website:

Thicker is not better, no matter what your mechanic or engineer told you. 20W-50 has 40% more viscosity (resistance to flow) at operating temperature than 10W-30. This means that your engine has to work 40% harder just to move the oil around inside your engine. An engine with thick 'oil' produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life. A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy. And the engine will last longer too! This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities. Unfortunately, the rule that 'you can't teach an old dog new tricks' prevents many 'experts' from accepting the facts. Indeed, when I was a kid, it was Castrol GTX 20W-50 in every car I had! In the years since, I have been working in the automotive lubrication industry, (15 years now) have been on the engineering boards of several major motor oil manufacturers. I feel lucky that I was able to 'see the light'.

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

I wouldn't risk the chance. $25 for a $20,000 car? Buy the correct stuff....

Read his post ! He's talking about 0W40 and 10W30 not 20W50 !! You also have to take into consideration that he is located in a warm climate area! He's not likely to see several days below 0' !!

So if he mixes 3 Qt of 0W40 with 1 Qt of 10W30, what's that come out to 4W36 or something stupid like that. If he Mixes 2 Qt's of each It comes out to 5W35. Do you really think the engine will notice that slight of a difference? I doubt it will have much of an effect, other than mileage, for ONE oil change.

Dom
 

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Stupid Oil Question of the day

... the E calls for 5W-20, right? .....
Right.

If the E calls for 5W20 oil, and its going 85 mph due west from Chicago for 22 hours, what oil does the Element call for?

The only stupid questions are those from which we don't learn, and those that contain the answer. :)

Sell the left over oil at a garage sale for $4/qt.
 

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The biggest risk you run mixing different weight oil, even if it is the same brand, is stratification which can lead to many problems even if only used for a short time. The lighter oil will float on top and the heavier oil fills the sump and is the first oil to reach the top end of the engine. The heavier oil might not penetrate the valve train and main bearings enough during warm up causing metal to metal contact. This would be compounded in a cold climate but you have to remember that even 5w30 is too thick for Honda engines in warm climates.
Your call, like ApriliaGuy said, if it's a lease or a soon to be trade in let her buck.:-D
 

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The biggest risk you run mixing different weight oil, even if it is the same brand, is stratification which can lead to many problems even if only used for a short time. The lighter oil will float on top and the heavier oil fills the sump and is the first oil to reach the top end of the engine. The heavier oil might not penetrate the valve train and main bearings enough during warm up causing metal to metal contact. This would be compounded in a cold climate but you have to remember that even 5w30 is too thick for Honda engines in warm climates.
Your call, like ApriliaGuy said, if it's a lease or a soon to be trade in let her buck.:-D
The testing labs do not support your Theory!

Having spent several years on track racing cars, I have seen several oil company's representatives at the track. Each touting their brand's virtues.

One of the best resources for the overall performance of oil is the ILSAC testing lab. On their sight they link you to This sight. Their claim is that the information is accurate.

Keep in mind that stratification is more likely to occur on the shelf than in an engine. The crank shaft agitates the oil wile normal engine temperatures cause bonding of the molecules.

When oil is made, One weight oil is not made then the next, and so on. A base lubricant Is formulated, then additives are mixed in to derive the desired constancy, weight, and characteristics.

If you have more questions about oil, I encourage you to use the link above. Ask the Experts, they will provide you with a valid reply. That's what they are there for!

Dom
 

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Next Day - time for another stupid oil question (see thread title)

How far past the 10K mile suggested change interval can I go before I do any real damage to my engine?
 

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Next Day - time for another stupid oil question (see thread title)

How far past the 10K mile suggested change interval can I go before I do any real damage to my engine?

It's impossible to answer that Question. If you send out some samples to an Oil annalist, you will have a definitive/accurate answer.

That's what I have done in the past.

Everyone drives differently. You also have varying driving conditions, from everyone else. If you use the rule of thumb, it should work for you. If you want it to be tailored to your specific set of conditions, then having it tested is the only way to go.

It gave me an the information I needed to figure out If my or My Wifes E needed more frequent changes. It turns out that her E needs them more frequently than mine. I drive hard, so I thought I would need them before she did. It turns out that the short trips she does, are more destructive, on the oil than the way I drive. Keep in mind that we use the same brand and weight oil and filter. We live in the same place. That eliminates some of the variables, but obviously not all, as evidenced by the testing.


Dom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry I haven't tuned back into this for a day or so.

First off, no Westy slug comments there, ApriliaGuy! If it came down to it, I'd sell the E, and keep the Westy!!!

Secondly, it's not $10 worth of dino oil, it's about $30 worth of Mobil 1. My lawnmower is not worthy.

Still, some good debate points, every car forum I frequent enjoys a good oil fight.

I actually pursued an option no one recommended. Since all the "old" oil I had was new enough to still be the current Mobil 1 packaging, I just went down to Advance Auto, explained that I needed to exchange some unopened oil for same brand - different viscosity. They said fine. I now have the "correct" weight ready for my oil change next week.
 

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Next Day - time for another stupid oil question (see thread title)

How far past the 10K mile suggested change interval can I go before I do any real damage to my engine?
I have the light that says when to change but it seems to be hitting up for a change every 5000 miles. My manual for my F--150 was 5000 as well. Drop the cash and get it changed. As for the damage your already there! I changed mine on the mileage with the F--150 before the E. Now that I have the E the F--150 is in storage unless I need it I change it every spring & fall. I never went for the 3 month rule. It can sit on the shelf for months why not in the oil pan if the vehicle that's not running? I always did the mileage time line.
 

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First off, no Westy slug comments there, ApriliaGuy! If it came down to it, I'd sell the E, and keep the Westy!!!
I know how ya feel.....I'd prolly keep my '66 Double Cab too.....even if it'll only go 65mph downhill with a tail wind, and ya gotta scrape the inside of the windsheild in the winter.

Nice solution to the problem btw....it ain't easy bein' cheesey!
 
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