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So, i've always had the idea that perfectly cubed enclosures would leave standing waves and make it sound like dookie, so my question is whether or not the sealed enclosure for the 13Av.2 that elemental designs sells is worth the money, or worth building one like it?

Heres the link:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_27_65&products_id=707
in addition to "tricking" the sub into thinking it is an a larger box polyfill also helps break up standing waves. the best thing to combat standing waves is a sphere, but there are also many other ways to help break them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
haha, i have a 13av.2 that i'm using, the only sub i can think of that would fit in the cutout is the jlaudio 13wo6, but thats not my style (or my wallets style either). I already have the box cut out, i just need to put it together and fit it into place in the back of my e. I just don't want to do all that work just to have it sound like crap. The box is exact specs to the one they sell, so hopefully it will sound as amazing as all get out, if not then it's back to the drawing board. I'm trying to fit the 13av.2, along with a true 1600 watt rms old school ppi amp in the back of the e without losing the ability to fold down the rear seats. not a lot of room for a lot of bass, but ill find a way.:grin:
 

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You could line the interior walls of the box with a sheet of 2" edead studio panel. Then add 1.5 lbs. polyfill.
 

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I gotta say, the 13Av.2 is a pretty nice in a spec sealed box, but put it in a ported box and it really lets the inner beast shine. But I guess if you're really trying to cut down on space, then sealed would be the way to go. I can say first hand that the ed build boxes are top notch, but with basic carpentry skills, you could build one that functions just the same. Just remember its the glue that really holds it together, and you can never have too much of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah, i didn't think it would be junk, just curious because of the whole square thing (ran into a car audio guy at a local shop that freaks about it). I'm also kind of nervous about getting into ported boxes.:|

Thanks for the feedback everyone, i'm going to line my box with some sound deadning material when i get the time, and work with a little polyfill before i try to design a ported box.

I do however have one other question. Where would be the best place to get past the firewall with 1 and 4 guage wire? It kinda halted the setup, because i was so use to running around it with flexible 8 gauge wire. :-(
 

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Ported boxes really aren't that much more complicated. I'd be more than happy to help you design one (and I'm sure several other guys on here would too).

As far as wires, I ran my 0awg through one of the holes for the Manual tranny, but it looks like thats not an option for you. I also ran 4awg through the fender well and in through one of the grommets on the vertical part of the drivers door sill. It was a little tricky to get through, but once it was there, it was there. Now that I think of it, I think its still there, just not being used.
 

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With a sub like the 13av.2 I wouldn't bother with a vented box. The transfer function of the vehicle itself provides boost. Keep it simple,, keep it tight and buld it to fit you Element. Unless of course you're one of those idiots that prefers to be heard 4 blocks away and don't care how it sounds while you're in the car driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm just waiting for some installation components to be delivered and ill hook everything up with a sealed box to see how it sounds. Afterall, it's getting a true 1600rms amp to power the beast, so it should be fine.
 

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Well, no question about it, you'll get some output. The 13Av.2 really is a low end beast, and with it in a sealed box, you'll get some nice subsonics out of it. The biggest thing when building the box for it is make sure you double up on the baffle (if not all the sides) and brace. Are you planning on having it rear/side/up/down firing?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
yeah, those are the last components of the box that i'll be building friday, i was able to get the whole weekend off, so a friend and i are going to be putting it in. friday morning will be spent shopping for a capacitor, then I'll be ready to put everything in.

It will be firing upward, 3/4 MDF with a double baffle and a lot of polyfill. I'll Probably try and put some sound dampening material on the interior walls of the enclosure, that is if i have enough money after the capacitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I want to go ported. I'm hoping to dabble in fiberglass pretty soon, so that would be when to do it, but im a noob to fiberglass, so i want to start off with something that can be light weight and a good beginning step (like a new center console):grin: after that i was thinking of building a spare tire enclosure with a maximum height of 7.5'' above the floor so i could still recline the rear seats enough to fold them up. im just skeptical on how to design such an enclosure that would be able to handle the weight of the 13av.2.:|


jpeaslee, do you happen to remember what the volume of the 13av.2 is, and do i subtract that from the total interior volume? This is what confuse me. and also, does it matter where the vent would be, for example should it run parallel from the sub, and does it need a bend or can it be straight? Thanks for all the input. I have broken in the sub a bit and you weren't lying, my rear view mirrors move out of place by 1/2'' every time the sub hits the lows, can't wait to hear it ported. However, completing the original design is the first task, and i really need some dynamat.
 

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I want to go ported. I'm hoping to dabble in fiberglass pretty soon, so that would be when to do it, but im a noob to fiberglass, so i want to start off with something that can be light weight and a good beginning step (like a new center console):grin: after that i was thinking of building a spare tire enclosure with a maximum height of 7.5'' above the floor so i could still recline the rear seats enough to fold them up. im just skeptical on how to design such an enclosure that would be able to handle the weight of the 13av.2.:|


jpeaslee, do you happen to remember what the volume of the 13av.2 is, and do i subtract that from the total interior volume? This is what confuse me. and also, does it matter where the vent would be, for example should it run parallel from the sub, and does it need a bend or can it be straight? Thanks for all the input. I have broken in the sub a bit and you weren't lying, my rear view mirrors move out of place by 1/2'' every time the sub hits the lows, can't wait to hear it ported. However, completing the original design is the first task, and i really need some dynamat.
I was wanting to make my own center console too, but the ebrake positioning still makes everything awkward unless you fork out the money for the sc ebrake mount (or if someone knows of a way to fabricate their own mount?)

You can find out any of the specs of any eD sub at their website, but here are the specs for the 13Av.2... (.12 ft3 displacement). If you decide to go with eD recommendations, the ones listed on their website are already including the sub displacement. As far as port placement goes, its not exactly a set rule or anything. There are different theories of how to do port placement in the box, but for the most part what is going to make a bigger difference is box, sub and port placement/direction within the car. By having the port and sub facing certain directions, it can load the sub in different ways, increasing or decreasing perceived output. Before you do a fiberglass box, I would make a temp box (or several) playing around with different positions. Generally the biggest output I've gotten is having subs/ports rear firing with about 6-8" between the subs and tailgate. I wish I could figure out how to make that work with my next box, but I'm just going to have to deal with a upfiring port and sub.
 
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