[1fastbox06]

do after spending two weeks gathering materials and finally getting in the garage, i installed a 2 farad cap, kicker zx200.4 amp, ppi "old school" pcx 2400.2. along with some kicker components in the front, and the tried and true 6022si infinity references rears, and for the time being two earthquake db-10's, pure awesomeness, right? wrong.

for some reason the remote lead to the head unit is not picking anything up, the deck is an alpine-cde-100, and i'm pissed. :x

so after rewiring the power, ground, and 12v wires to the deck and various wiring schemes on the remote power lead, i still get nothing. Any suggestions?

P.S. Also, i used a current circuit and everything checks out ok on the ground and 12v


:-( and as of 8:22 A.M. i came to find that my power lock remote and interior controls are not working?????? suggestions?

 

[ReaperZune8]

Did you bypass the stock amp and such?

Doesnt make sense if the subs in back are wired direct to the unit... those should work at least!

 

[ramblerdan]

Do your power door locks work when you use the door switch? Not sure what you mean by "interior controls," but the door locks and some of the MCU functions are powered by fuse #16 (15A) in the under-hood box.

 

[1fastbox06]

Do your power door locks work when you use the door switch? Not sure what you mean by "interior controls," but the door locks and some of the MCU functions are powered by fuse #16 (15A) in the under-hood box.

yeah, i was trying to find the right words, but didn't. :lol:

Im gonna go check it in a bit and see. thanks for the help.

 

[1fastbox06]

well thank you very much, now the locks work! :-D

now to that darn system. :-(

 

[gibroni]

You can always just use a different power lead from the vehicle and wire in a toggle switch to turn the amps on.

 

[PMM_Element]

Did you make sure to tap into the remote lead and not the antenna lead? Some decks have 2 leads one for amps and one for an antenna

If you turn on your stereo and set it to AM/FM and the amp turns on, then you have it hooked up to the wrong lead.

 

[1fastbox06]

:grin: it's fixed, the fuse was blown, and for some reason a 10a, so i replaced it with a 15a and everything is turned on, but my headunit was so basic that it hendered the whole setup due to only rear rca outputs... so i went to my local stereo shop and got a new kenwood exceleron deck with 3 preouts and multiple adjustments and a new alarm system. :grin:

now i just gotta wait til next weekend to put my 13av.2 in and really have some fun. Ill post pics then, right now its not aesthetically(sp?) pleasing.

once again thank all or you for the quick responses. Especially Ramblerdan.

 

[ReaperZune8]

Yea... ramblerdan is somewhat the E-guru... especially when it comes to wires n things

 

[BigTzElement]

:grin: it's fixed, the fuse was blown, and for some reason a 10a, so i replaced it with a 15a and everything is turned on

Why would you replace a 10A fuse with a 15A fuse?

Was a 10A fuse in the spot where a 15A was suppose to be?(I hope this is the case.)

A fuse with a 10A rating is in the circuit for a reason. Did you put a 10A fuse back in and it blew again?

You should NEVER replace ANY fuse with a higher amperage rating as the circuit that the fuse protects is designed so the fuse is the weakest link and if there is ever any problem in the circuit the fuse will open.

By replacing the fuse with a higher amperage one you have moved the weakest link in the circuit somewhere else which can/will/has resulted in burnt wiring harnesses and/or vehicle fires.

If you need more amperage controlled by the circuit that the 10A fuse was in then wire a relay to the 10A circuit which only draws milliamps then you can control up to the amperage rating of the relay. 30A is most common for vehicle applications.

You are just asking for trouble by simply installing a higher amperage fuse.

If you choose not to switch back to the 10A fuse please consider investing in a good fire extinguisher.

 

[Yoda E SC]

why would you replace a 10a fuse with a 15a fuse?

Was a 10a fuse in the spot where a 15a was suppose to be?(i hope this is the case.)

a fuse with a 10a rating is in the circuit for a reason. Did you put a 10a fuse back in and it blew again?

You should never replace any fuse with a higher amperage rating as the circuit that the fuse protects is designed so the fuse is the weakest link and if there is ever any problem in the circuit the fuse will open.

By replacing the fuse with a higher amperage one you have moved the weakest link in the circuit somewhere else which can/will/has resulted in burnt wiring harnesses and/or vehicle fires.

If you need more amperage controlled by the circuit that the 10a fuse was in then wire a relay to the 10a circuit which only draws milliamps then you can control up to the amperage rating of the relay. 30a is most common for vehicle applications.

You are just asking for trouble by simply installing a higher amperage fuse.

If you choose not to switch back to the 10a fuse please consider investing in a good fire extinguisher.

x 2:grin:

 

[1fastbox06]

from what i can see, the 10a is definitely not supposed to be there, 15a is what originally goes there, as stated by the fuse diagram and ramblerdan, so no fires over here.:grin: just beautiful, crisp highs, and heart stopping lows, and i'm not even done yet. :grin:

P.S. the original alpine unit was replaced as previously stated and just wanted to let all of yall know that the kenwood kdc-x493 is legit, definitely recommend it to the control freaks who love to tweek your music accordingly in less than a minute. I paid a little more at my local shop than what crutchfield sells it for, but it was still well worth the money.

http://www.crutchfield.com/app/prod...?SearchTab=Shop&us=2&search=kdcx493&x=24&y=11

 

[BigTzElement]

Cool, I am glad you are not upping the amperage.

If a 15A is suppose to be there then you are all good.

BTW, I like Kicker stuff just kinda like a little bit...in case you didn't know or have time to click on my sig....

What Kicker components are you running?

and

Hurry up with the pictures.

:grin:

 

[ramblerdan]

Good advice about not amping-up on fuses, though.

 

[1fastbox06]

haha, yeah i've seen the kicker element, must be nice. anyways, currently i am running some kicker components, but i'm not entirely sure which they are at the moment, they are ks series, but they were too small for the front oem location, so i had to ghetto fab it for the time being.

the 4 channel amp is a kicker zx200.4, which i love, but wish it was a little thinner, overall a great amp.

I also have a zx200.2 that use to run the crap out of my cvr's (ran 248 rms overall when bridged). Currently it is in a friends car, but i think it needs to power the front components, and the four channel will run the rears and a elemental designs 6.5 in the stock location, or the other two infinity 6022si's i have from the front. just not sure yet.

 

[jpeaslee]

Glad to hear you're up and running (especially with the right fuses) Enjoy

 

[ReaperZune8]

one could say he was... con-fused. :lol::lol::lol: