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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, this is kind of a re post as I tacked this on to one about a battery (Thanks Yoda E SC!)

But just to get a few more opinions. I have a completely stock factory Honda 2003 stereo system, and the other day while in mid drive it flickered briefly then died.

A - It's not the radio code, it operates fine as do the aux and CD)
B - It's not the under the dash fuse 7. I even replaced it to be safe

When I re insert the amp fuse sometimes the sound comes back on for a moment, but just for a split second then dies. This does NOT blow the fuse.

I leave the radio on and once the sound came back on (in all speakers) for a split second and scared me half to death, but that's it.

Any experience with this?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Assuming I wanted to check the Amp on my 2003 EX and not change anything else;

Where is it, literally? I have no idea how to get at it.

Once I know where it is, how can I troubleshoot it? Any ideas?

Are there replacement amps that are compatible, or do i have to get THAT specific one?

Thanks
 

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Amp is located right next to your right leg LOL.

It's the thing with the grill on the front down near the floor in the center across from the cup holders.

I'd take the cover off and see if there are any loose wires?

This doesn't apply to your vehicle, but maybe there were other problems with the audio system you can ask your dealer about, see page 5

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A090700.PDF



Mark
 

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Assuming I wanted to check the Amp on my 2003 EX and not change anything else;

Where is it, literally? I have no idea how to get at it.

Once I know where it is, how can I troubleshoot it? Any ideas?

Are there replacement amps that are compatible, or do i have to get THAT specific one?

Thanks
The amp itself is located behind the passenger kickpanel below the glove box. If the radio still operates but has no audio, the amp is losing power or turn-on signal. I know that you replaced fuse#7, but have you tried jiggling it? If somebody used a fuse tap to wire up something, it could have spread the connecting leads in the fuse box. Otherwise, I would be willing to bet that somebody replaced the radio at one point and you have some hacked up wiring from where they put the facory unit back in. The only way to find out is to pull it and see.
 

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Amp is located right next to your right leg LOL.

It's the thing with the grill on the front down near the floor in the center across from the cup holders.

I'd take the cover off and see if there are any loose wires?

This doesn't apply to your vehicle, but maybe there were other problems with the audio system you can ask your dealer about, see page 5

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A090700.PDF



Mark
That's a subwoofer, not an amplifier. ;-)
 

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I know that you replaced fuse#7, but have you tried jiggling it? If somebody used a fuse tap to wire up something, it could have spread the connecting leads in the fuse box. Otherwise, I would be willing to bet that somebody replaced the radio at one point and you have some hacked up wiring from where they put the facory unit back in. The only way to find out is to pull it and see.
yeah i forget that people are still using those things that streach out the spades the fuses plug into. we used to take the actual blades on the fuse in the circuit in question and bend them with a pair of pliers by actually rotating the blade of the fuse on both sides, not bending it in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a ton everyone.

I'll take a stab at this on the weekend. Is there a way I can test the output from the stereo with a multimeter to narrow down the problem?

If anyone knows, what is the signal range the radio SHOULD be putting out to the amp?

Also, is removing the passenger side kickpanel tricky?
 

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there is a yellow/green wire in plug b pin 1 at the amplifier that should be getting 12 volts whenever the radio is turned on. also blue/orange plug a pin 11 is constant power. these are both at the amp in the passenger kick. they are about the only thing you can check without an o-scope as the rest are audio signal in out out of the amplifier.

you have to pull the sill panel out to remove the kickpanel, which is very easy.

this thread has the connector views and amp wiring and al's signature has the complete audio wiring in it

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=781893&postcount=26
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Which is the amp and how do I remove it?

Hello again everyone;

I finally got the time to pull the passenger side kick panel off to try and test my amp, but I don't know;

A - what t looks like
B - How to get it loose

This is what I'm looking at under the glove compartment. Clearly the big circle is a speaker, but isn't that plastic bit with the connector going in to it the amp, or is it buried behind the subwoofer somewhere?)

If that is it, I don't want to start just randomly unscrewing things, does anyone know how to remove it?
 

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That is the blower for the A/C, not a sub. The amp is behind passenger side kick panel. It is a bare aluminum/silver color. You will know what it is when you see it.

John

It is #7 in this picture
 

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Could be a loose connection on the plug for the amp. When (or if) you find the amp just check the connector first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I definitely need to get a service manual, unless there's a .pdf of it I can download to save 100 bones?

Anyone know where I might find that?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oops, didn't know that. Sorry. I'm just about to run some tests on the amp now. I'll post a pic for other stereo newbie's like myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, so here's what I'm seeing, and I know little of using a multimeter for anything other than motorcycle load testing, so I have some more questions and hoping someone can help me out;

Pic 1 - That silver box under the glove compartment, that's the AMP (for other idiots like me who can't find it, thanks for the patience everyone). The kick panel snaps off with a bit of wiggling, no screws

So you can see the radio is on, tuned in, and the volume is up (I can verify it with that split second of sound I get if I pull the AMP fuse (under dash 7), leave it a few minutes, then push it back in.

I pulled plug B (green) and tested the green and yellow wire. There is no power going to the amp. I don't have photos but I tested the other constant power plug on plug A.

The question is, can I just shove the contact probe on to the wire the way I'm shoing here?

Also, am I setting my multimeter to 12V Battery? Looking at that meter, do I have it set right?

Thanks for your patience everyone.

Dave
 

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Set the meter for DCV (DC Volts).
Put the black lead on a nice clean piece of metal (screw heads work for this) and the other where you want to test for voltage.

Good luck trying to shove that lead into the back of the plug like that. It'll be hit and miss as far as making good contact. Go to radio shack and see if you can get an adapter that gives you a bit more of a pointed lead so you can go into the other end of the plug.

And since you're there, get some aligator clips so you can clip one end to the black lead and the other to something that's grounded. Lots of nice sharp metal things under the dash.
 
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