Honda Element Owners Club banner

The Definitive Instrument Bulb Cross Reference

38561 Views 30 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Legioss
Here I will attempt to document and illustrate the bulbs that I believe are the after market replacements for the eight different bulb part numbers present in the instruments of the 2003-2006 Element. I'm sure some are also applicable to other years, so I'll give the Honda P/N's as well. Everyone seems to complain about the main cluster the most, so I'll start there.


Illustrations #1 and #2 are Honda P/N's 35505-SCV-A01 and 35505-SCV-A11 respectively. There are many posts throughout this forum that state that the replacement bulb is #74. When I tried the #74, it didn't fit. I found that the #2721 fit correctly and was brighter.

The Switches.


Illustrations #2 and #3 are Honda P/N's
35850-SCV-A01 and 35851-SCV-A01 respectively. They are simply a #7219 with a condom (colored filter), wire lead, "grain of wheat" bulb commonly found at Radio Shack as 272-1092. You will need to wrap the leads through the wedge, and remove and reuse the colored filter on the new bulb.

Illustration #4 is Honda P/N
35871-S3N-901. Unfortunately, it is a bulb that requires some leg work to procure. Bulb #8640, with a National Stock Number 6240-00-570-9884, can be procured online, or at an electronics parts house such as Ford Electronics here in SoCal. Being an NSN part means they will be manufactured for many, many years to support military equipment throughout the world. I have some extra #8640's if you're really in a pinch.

The Fog Switch.


No P/N given for the bulb. However, it is the same as the Cruise Switch (condom included), #7219. See Above.

The Gear Selector. (Automatic Only)


Illustration #1 is Honda P/N
35505-692-003



There seems to be some disagreement about the T1.5 glass wedge bulb. See Above. I found the #2721 works for me. Others have found that the #74 also works.

The Heater Control.



Once again, you will need to wrap the leads through the wedge.



I haven't pulled the radio yet. But when I have a bulb outage, I'll report on that too.

There are also bulbs in the AUTO and MIRROR switches on the driver's door. They are soldered in place. I'm not that desperate yet.

So, there it is. I wish this information will save some of you from a costly trip to the dealer to change a $.99 bulb.
See less See more
7
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Awesome post and thread to start. Thanks for the insight.
Am i missing something

Thanks for the great info but I am getting lost near the end of the post. :confused:You mention the heater controls, but do not give any clear indication on which bulb is required in what position. My fan speed knob bulb is out and I am wanting to replace it but I do not see which bulb is identified in that specific position. I believe that pics 8 and 9 are the bulbs, but aren't there 3 bulbs, one for each knob? I little clarification would be great. Once again, thanks for doing all the research for us, I feel like a kid in class cheating on my biology homework again.;-)
Thanks for the great info but I am getting lost near the end of the post. :confused:You mention the heater controls, but do not give any clear indication on which bulb is required in what position. My fan speed knob bulb is out and I am wanting to replace it but I do not see which bulb is identified in that specific position. I believe that pics 8 and 9 are the bulbs, but aren't there 3 bulbs, one for each knob? I little clarification would be great. Once again, thanks for doing all the research for us, I feel like a kid in class cheating on my biology homework again.;-)
Sorry for that KAYA. Is this more clear?

See less See more
Now i get it

That makes more sense. There is one bulb for the knob illumination and one for the panel illumination. Now I can get the correct bulb the first time, I hate going back to the store 3 times for 1 job.
Thanks again.
The wedge explained.

The #74 and #2721 are two very different bulbs indeed. Here is a quick visual.

The #74.


The #2721



#74, #2721

Volts 14, 12

Amps .1, .1

Watts 1.4, 1.2

Base W2.1X4.9D, W2X4.6D

Bulb T1.75, T1.5

Filament C-2F, C-2V

Average Life (hours) 1000, 1000

The #74's glass wedge base is .1mm (.004") thicker, and .3mm (.012") wider than the #2712. The #74 being 14 Volts will be dimmer when only 12 Volts is applied.
See less See more
2
That makes more sense. There is one bulb for the knob illumination and one for the panel illumination. Now I can get the correct bulb the first time, I hate going back to the store 3 times for 1 job.
Thanks again.
Not quite correct yet, KAYA. Illustration #9, the longer of the two, Honda P/N 79629-S3V-A01, illuminates the rotary knobs' background. Illustration #8, the shorter of the two, Honda P/N 79629-SCV-A01, illuminates the bottom switches' background. There is yet another bulb, oops, I mean an LED for each switch, (RECIRC, A/C, REAR DEF) to indicate that they are ON. They are soldered to the PCB.
Way to go NBP, another great Idea. I will still get in touch. My work got busy and golf is winding up:D
Incandescents, who needs 'em

After I've spent all this time and effort to find and document all of the instrument panel's incandescent lamps, I've figured an easy, inexpensive LED solution. I've finished the main cluster, moving on to the switches and heater control. I promise to document my work soon. Here's a teaser. Nine main cluster lamps. Dealer cost: about $26 (parts only). Sylvania #74 or #2721 or #2723 or whatever: about $15. Richard's Blue LED Instrument Cluster: about $11. I promise you, no joke! And my solution DOES NOT involve #74 LED replacement lamps from vendors like discountleds.com, or superbrightleds.com, or any other Chinese crap that's out there.
Impatience

OK Rambler,

I need More Time to work all the bugs out. But here's what I have so far:




My camera (photographer) needs help too.
See less See more
2
Wifes Crv has same problem

My wifes CRV has the same lighting issues.I have to replace the lights in the climate controls what a pain in the A**!!
Looks like the blue light makes the red part of the heat control lens disappear. Is it visible to the eye?
Looks like the blue light makes the red part of the heat control lens disappear. Is it visible to the eye?
You've found a bug. It's very dim, if at all visible. Not mad, just sad:sad:
What if you kept a white bulb in that spot only? The red and blue filter would still do its job. The only question is whether that control would be brighter than the rest.
The 8640/6240-00-570-9884 pops up easily enough online, but the trick is getting a small quantity for a reasonable price, including shipping. Found more cross-references on a Camry forum that might help at a neighborhood electronics supply house:

Bulbrite, CEC, Chicago-Miniature, Eiko, General Electric, General Instrument, Gilway, Interlight, Lumiaction, Norman, Standardpro, USA: 8640

FSN 6240-00-570-9884

Also:
40982EK
69549136908
6.24E+12
I/14V/0.08A/WL/T1.25/1000H
I/14V/0.08A/WL-25MM/T1.25/11.7MM/1000H
I/14V/0.08A/WT/T1.25
Aidlite ML8640
Allied 749-0014
Bailey WE04.14.0801
Bulbrite 751460
Canimpex, Microlites 14-1.12-SWT
Eiko 031293409829
EK 40982
Lumiaction T4-8640/14V/0.08A
Standardpro 13690, 69549136908, T1.25/CL/14V/0.08A/WT

But odds are, they'll find it listed as 8640.
See less See more
Rambler, If you want some, just ask. This was the hardest bulb to narrow down. Then, I found this vendor on Ebay. If he only knew some vendors charge more than $3. Like here and Wow, Don's psychotic.
See less See more
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top