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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys. Bought my 04 E with 176k on the ticker. Was in great shape & knew there were a few issues I had to address. First, ac wasn't working, compliance bushings needed to be replaced, & a thorough cleaning. So, I began cleaning, especially the interior. This thing was driven in some serious DUST! After getting the cleaning out of the way, I started replacing the easy stuff. Air filters inside and under the hood. SO dirty. Replaced serpentine belt. OK, onto the big stuff. The A/C had to be tackled, otherwise my 7 yr old son would boil in this thing during the summer heat. Bought a used ac compressor with only 6k on it. Bought a new condenser (came with new dryer). Installed both thankfully without Black Death in my system. Recharged with oil and freon & wahla......ice cold A/C!!! Next, on to the compliance bushings. Realized quickly that this part wasngoing to be much more in depth. After taking out each lower control arm, I realized that the drive shafts needed replacing, both lower ball joints were wasted, and of course the compliance bushings. I went ahead and started tackling each. Instead of replacing the entire steering knuckle bc of the lower ball joints being pressed in, I bought the MOOG replacement ball joints and used my press to press the old ones out and used the hand press (70 bucks @harbor freight) to press in the moog ball joints. Inserted the retaining cir clips and SO pleased with the MOOG solution. Bought new drive shafts (70 a piece), and pressed out the compliance bushings myself. Pressing them in, had to spend 25 bucks & have the machine shop do that. Also, while I was at it, I replaced the front rotors & pads (150 bucks). Installed everything, filled up the trans with some fresh fluid, WOW !!! Can you say tight, supple, and smooth? What a difference 450 to 500 in parts and some labor makes. Now the only thing to do is the rear diff fluid change bc of the vibration while turning tight. Easy fix. My E is now road worthy for another 176k. Yeah !!! Oh, I also did change plugs to keep her firing efficiently.

I want to thank this forum for all the invaluable knowledge in doing each and every step of this project. If I had a problem, just searched and found an answer right here! If anyone needs any info on any of the work I performed, don't hesitate to ask. Cheers all.

Daveyg68
 

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Nice man, sounds like you revived that E from near death! LOL

Welcome to the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys. Ramblerdan, yes, that is the press i used. The auto parts store (O'Reilly, use to be Kragen or Checkers) loaned it to me for a deposit, and then refunded my entire deposit when I returned it. Wonderful service. I used a harborfreight shop press (129.00) to press the lower ball joints out. And yes, I used the harborfreight ball joint press kit (70.00) to press them back in. I could have done both with just the ball joint press kit. It looks like a C clamp with a lot of spacers and attachments to give you options. Suggestion, take the rotor off the assembly before you start working on it. Real easy, with 2 phillips screws. Now, turn the assembly upside down and mount in a bench vise, clamping the mounting arm of the steering knuckle (this is the part that bolts to the strut). Now that you have it all secure, use the ball joint press and either press the old one out, the new one in. Have a 1/2" ratchet with a socket for the press, to really get some leverage on it. It worked great and I'd never go the Honda assembly route now that I know about MOOG's ball joint solution. Once the MOOG ball joints are pressed in, make sure to really crank on the press so they are fully seated bc you want to be able to put the snap ring on the other side to secure it.

I used my shop press to press out my compliance bushings as well, but pressing those in isn't so easy, at least for me. I gave them to a machine shop and spent the 25.00 bucks gladly.

I changed my rear diff fluid with Honda Dual Pump II fluid today and no more vibration. Amazing. I love this site.
 
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