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how much a new thule roof rack should cost in total?

The base rack (i.e. no bike / canoe / kayak / ski stuff) for the Element consists of 430 Tracker II Foot Pack, LB50 Load Bars, and TK9 Tracker Kit. The cost is $213 at ORS Racks Direct [http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-car-roof-racks-base-systems-components.html#].
ORS and others sell at 10% off MSRP with free shipping over $100. Bike / canoe / kayak / ski / locks etc are extra.
 

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I installed a Thule roof rack back in September with much of the same results, i.e. rack trim doesn't sit exactly flush with the Element trim. However, I am very pleased with the assembly.

My only complaint was the additional wind noise from the addition of the rack; however, I read somewhere on this forum that a simple fix was to break up the air flow over the rack. So I just tied a bungee cord over the front bar and immediately had a quieter ride.

I am currently waiting for my next addition: a Thule 696 Expedition roof basket.

If anyone is interested, I can take some pics to post here after I put on the basket.
Could you post pictures with the Expedition rack on?

How did this affect your gas mileage?

How is the noise level with the basket on top?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I have the same set up. I run around 99% of the time with no bars and have the caps on. I have been on the highway @ 80mph. A short trip from Central FL to Savannah, GA with them and they are fine. I believe it is a downforce/suction issue that holds them on. Even though they are easily removed. I would like to get the air deflector for when I do have the bars on, but will probably stick with the bungee cord trick to lessen the noise.
 

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Thule plastic caps

plastic cap aside
These decorative covers that snap onto same bar that the rack mounts mate to are a bit on the 'soft grip' side. The do NOT stay on in a car wash.:-o

I bought another set and then filled the air gap between the cover and the grip tab with hot melt glue (silicone caulk, etc, would work, too). This caused a very strong grip that has not given up at interstate speeds or through the car wash.:twisted:

Regarding the Thule coaming adapter plates that don't sit tight against the E's plasiticwork - I'm going to use black silicone caulk up under the flange when the weather turns warm. Will hold them down with sandbags or other conforming weights to eliminate any gapping. WIll trip any excess off after it cures.:p
 

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I know this has been beaten to death, but I just installed a Thule Roof rack system on my Element, and took some pics of the process if anyone is interested.

The installation pics can be found here: http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z181/Jim_NH/Element Thule Roof Rack/

Honda dealer wanted almost $400 for the factory option installed, so that was out. The choice of Thule over Yakima was due to the fact that my wife already has a Thule system on her Pilot -- so we can share accessories. Also, the bike shop folks said that Thule shipping and support is much better - to the extent that they are planning to drop the Yakima line altogether. Don't know if other stores feel the same.

In general I am OK with how it came out. I like the fact that you can quickly and tool-lessly remove the whole setup. My main criticisms so far are that the trim pieces are black vs. the dark grey of the actual top trim on my Element, and that the trim pieces in the front don't lie flat on the front sides no matter how much I tried to reposition them. The latter may change with a couple of days in the sun. The other criticism is that the little plastic covers they give you to cap the mounts when the risers are not installed don't seem to fit well -- they don't attach with a satisfying "snap" or anything, and I left them off since I am convinced they would fly off the first time I hit the freeway.

You will need the Tracker II 430 riser kit, the Tracker II TK-9 Element Fit Kit, and a set of cross bars (which I already owned). The pics show all the parts and the correct boxes.

Note that the rear brackets (the aluminum channels) mount slightly differently that the fronts - in the rear you use different holes in the aluminum channel to bolt it in so that the trim kit is centered over the larger cut out in the top trim. It looks wrong, but it's not.

Make sure to use the bolts that have the yellow locktite preapplied to them for mounting the aluminum channel to the Element. The bolts without loctite are for the attaching the risers to the aluminum channel.

Jim in NH
The link to the photos is broken?
 

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Okay guys I too am trying to decide which racks to get. I am leaning towards the Thule as your discussions have helped. However I have yet to see what the Max Load weights for the Thule and the Yakima are. I realize they look better, but are they actually better made and stronger with better adapters?:roll:
Don't know about Yakima but Thule lists the weight limit at 220.
 
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