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Cool beans, Frozen E. I will gladly buy you a case of your beverage of choice!

Question: Why cut M8? What if you just tapped M8 and M9 together?

I'd rather have the rear hatch unlock than the passenger door, so will try it with that wire (P16, eh?) instead.
Looking at the schematic, both sides of the actuators are connected to the common contacts of relays inside the MCU. The normally open contact is connected to +12 and the normally closed contact is going to ground. At rest, both sides of the lock motors see ground. When an unlock impulse is sent to the driver door, relay #1 sends 12v to one side of the motor and the other side already sees ground thru relay #2. When the lock impulse is sent, relay#2 sends 12v to the other side of the motor which is now grounded thru relay #1.
The other two locks are using relay#3 on the unlock side of the motors and using relay#2 for the lock side. They work exactly the same except relay #3 only engages after 2 clicks of the remote.
YEL/GRN to relay #1(M9= driver door)
YEL/BLK to relay#2(M7= driver door)(P17=hatch)(M6=pass door)
YEL to relay #3 (M8 pass door)(P16 hatch)

If you simply tie the M8 to M9, whenever you double click to pop the trunk, you will be sending 12v directly to ground.
 

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Looking at the schematic, both sides of the actuators are connected to the common contacts of relays inside the MCU. The normally open contact is connected to +12 and the normally closed contact is going to ground. At rest, both sides of the lock motors see ground. When an unlock impulse is sent to the driver door, relay #1 sends 12v to one side of the motor and the other side already sees ground thru relay #2. When the lock impulse is sent, relay#2 sends 12v to the other side of the motor which is now grounded thru relay #1.
The other two locks are using relay#3 on the unlock side of the motors and using relay#2 for the lock side. They work exactly the same except relay #3 only engages after 2 clicks of the remote.
YEL/GRN to relay #1(M9= driver door)
YEL/BLK to relay#2(M7= driver door)(P17=hatch)(M6=pass door)
YEL to relay #3 (M8 pass door)(P16 hatch)

If you simply tie the M8 to M9, whenever you double click to pop the trunk, you will be sending 12v directly to ground.
you got there before i had a chance....;-)
 

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actually just got home for getting some vinyl for my sub console. i saw the original question come thru on the bberry and was like "oh no i hope someone doesnt try that..."

:)
 

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actually just got home for getting some vinyl for my sub console. i saw the original question come thru on the bberry and was like "oh no i hope someone doesnt try that..."

:)
I did, I did. Actually I put a jumper between M8 and M9 to see if I could just do this the easy way. Wasn't really thinking. It was 10 at night.
Anyway, it works beautifully the way I have it. I'm going to keep it that way. I actually just got back from the dealer from having my TL flip key/remote programmed. They tried to tell me that my door was messed up because it unlocks at the same time as the driver's side. :lol:
 

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Anyway, I'll try to get more pics up tomorrow, including the schematic of how this circuit is wired and what I actually did to make it work. So far I'm happy as a clam.
Leave the cut M8 right where it is. It's not hurting anything.
Did the schematic ever appear? Actually I am just curious which end of the cut M8 you are tapping into the M9. As always, I am extra cautious with elec mods, since it's not one of my native languages.

if you tapped it on the the same lock wire it would in theory work i would just be a little concerned with how much you are now asking one circuit to provide current wise when it was originally being done by 2 (both rear doors are connected internally) might be fine though. if you did that then you could take one of the outputs and have it run anything that works on momentary pulse like a dei 530t, although you would have to run it thru a relay to convert it from + to - and to isolate it from the fusebox normally resting at -.
Did anyone try the rear hatch yet, instead of the passenger door?
 

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Did the schematic ever appear? Actually I am just curious which end of the cut M8 you are tapping into the M9. As always, I am extra cautious with elec mods, since it's not one of my native languages.



Did anyone try the rear hatch yet, instead of the passenger door?
either way you want to hook the cut side that is NOT still attached to the plug into the other wire. that is the side that goes out to the motors. if the side that were still attached to the plug were hooked into it you would have the fuse blowing problem like he talked about when he just tapped it in before cutting.
 

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Nice mod Frozen E. Thanks for the research and resolution!

(Now if we could just install a power activated sunroof that easily...)
 

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The connector on my '04 is a different shape, with different colored wires, from the one on Frozen's '08. Moreover I was discouraged by my inability to get the connector close enough to work on reasonably. (Was away from most of my tools, too.) So this job is shelved for the time being. Damn I hate working under the dash.
 

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The connector on my '04 is a different shape, with different colored wires, from the one on Frozen's '08. Moreover I was discouraged by my inability to get the connector close enough to work on reasonably. (Was away from most of my tools, too.) So this job is shelved for the time being. Damn I hate working under the dash.
actually they should be the same. colors anyway....
 

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The connector on my '04 is a different shape, with different colored wires, from the one on Frozen's '08. Moreover I was discouraged by my inability to get the connector close enough to work on reasonably. (Was away from most of my tools, too.) So this job is shelved for the time being. Damn I hate working under the dash.
I am '04 too. My connector and wire colors match the pictures posted. Maybe you grabbed a diff one?

Pics: Left = M from behind the box; Right = P from front of box. P16 is 3rd from right, on bottom.

****

Here's my plan of attack, please shoot it full of holes. I am leaving the passenger side unchanged, but changing the hatch to one click.

0. Do I need to unhook the battery?
1. Shrink hands
2. Remove M and P
(P is 3rd row from top, far right plug, on front of under-dash box, right?)
3. Cut P16
4. Butt join, quick tap, or solder patch wire onto NON-PLUG end of the cut P16.
5. Take patch wire around box to quick tap on M9
6. Plug in M and P

Sound good?
 

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Here's my plan of attack, please shoot it full of holes. I am leaving the passenger side unchanged, but changing the hatch to one click.

0. Do I need to unhook the battery?
1. Shrink hands
2. Remove M and P
(P is 3rd row from top, far right plug, on front of under-dash box, right?)
3. Cut P16
4. Butt join, quick tap, or solder patch wire onto NON-PLUG end of the cut P16.
5. Take patch wire around box to quick tap on M9
6. Plug in M and P

Sound good?
Looks good except for the part I made bigger. :)
 

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Everything looks good though. Good luck with your mod.

I'm just surprised nobody else ever though of doing this. The double button push thing had been an annoyance since day 1 to me.
 
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