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OK. How do you know? ;-)Ask me how I know.![]()
OK. How do you know? ;-)Ask me how I know.![]()
Looking at the schematic, both sides of the actuators are connected to the common contacts of relays inside the MCU. The normally open contact is connected to +12 and the normally closed contact is going to ground. At rest, both sides of the lock motors see ground. When an unlock impulse is sent to the driver door, relay #1 sends 12v to one side of the motor and the other side already sees ground thru relay #2. When the lock impulse is sent, relay#2 sends 12v to the other side of the motor which is now grounded thru relay #1.Cool beans, Frozen E. I will gladly buy you a case of your beverage of choice!
Question: Why cut M8? What if you just tapped M8 and M9 together?
I'd rather have the rear hatch unlock than the passenger door, so will try it with that wire (P16, eh?) instead.
you got there before i had a chance....;-)Looking at the schematic, both sides of the actuators are connected to the common contacts of relays inside the MCU. The normally open contact is connected to +12 and the normally closed contact is going to ground. At rest, both sides of the lock motors see ground. When an unlock impulse is sent to the driver door, relay #1 sends 12v to one side of the motor and the other side already sees ground thru relay #2. When the lock impulse is sent, relay#2 sends 12v to the other side of the motor which is now grounded thru relay #1.
The other two locks are using relay#3 on the unlock side of the motors and using relay#2 for the lock side. They work exactly the same except relay #3 only engages after 2 clicks of the remote.
YEL/GRN to relay #1(M9= driver door)
YEL/BLK to relay#2(M7= driver door)(P17=hatch)(M6=pass door)
YEL to relay #3 (M8 pass door)(P16 hatch)
If you simply tie the M8 to M9, whenever you double click to pop the trunk, you will be sending 12v directly to ground.
Then you must really be slow, 'cause it took me 45 minutes to type that :-(you got there before i had a chance....;-)
I did, I did. Actually I put a jumper between M8 and M9 to see if I could just do this the easy way. Wasn't really thinking. It was 10 at night.actually just got home for getting some vinyl for my sub console. i saw the original question come thru on the bberry and was like "oh no i hope someone doesnt try that..."
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Did the schematic ever appear? Actually I am just curious which end of the cut M8 you are tapping into the M9. As always, I am extra cautious with elec mods, since it's not one of my native languages.Anyway, I'll try to get more pics up tomorrow, including the schematic of how this circuit is wired and what I actually did to make it work. So far I'm happy as a clam.
Leave the cut M8 right where it is. It's not hurting anything.
Did anyone try the rear hatch yet, instead of the passenger door?if you tapped it on the the same lock wire it would in theory work i would just be a little concerned with how much you are now asking one circuit to provide current wise when it was originally being done by 2 (both rear doors are connected internally) might be fine though. if you did that then you could take one of the outputs and have it run anything that works on momentary pulse like a dei 530t, although you would have to run it thru a relay to convert it from + to - and to isolate it from the fusebox normally resting at -.
either way you want to hook the cut side that is NOT still attached to the plug into the other wire. that is the side that goes out to the motors. if the side that were still attached to the plug were hooked into it you would have the fuse blowing problem like he talked about when he just tapped it in before cutting.Did the schematic ever appear? Actually I am just curious which end of the cut M8 you are tapping into the M9. As always, I am extra cautious with elec mods, since it's not one of my native languages.
Did anyone try the rear hatch yet, instead of the passenger door?
Not yet; hopefully this weekend.Did anyone try the rear hatch yet, instead of the passenger door?
Waiting excitedly... Doing just the gate, or gate AND p-door?Not yet; hopefully this weekend.
actually they should be the same. colors anyway....The connector on my '04 is a different shape, with different colored wires, from the one on Frozen's '08. Moreover I was discouraged by my inability to get the connector close enough to work on reasonably. (Was away from most of my tools, too.) So this job is shelved for the time being. Damn I hate working under the dash.
I am '04 too. My connector and wire colors match the pictures posted. Maybe you grabbed a diff one?The connector on my '04 is a different shape, with different colored wires, from the one on Frozen's '08. Moreover I was discouraged by my inability to get the connector close enough to work on reasonably. (Was away from most of my tools, too.) So this job is shelved for the time being. Damn I hate working under the dash.
Looks good except for the part I made bigger.Here's my plan of attack, please shoot it full of holes. I am leaving the passenger side unchanged, but changing the hatch to one click.
0. Do I need to unhook the battery?
1. Shrink hands
2. Remove M and P
(P is 3rd row from top, far right plug, on front of under-dash box, right?)
3. Cut P16
4. Butt join, quick tap, or solder patch wire onto NON-PLUG end of the cut P16.
5. Take patch wire around box to quick tap on M9
6. Plug in M and P
Sound good?
Hahahahaha. I edited that little fix in. Thanks. I must have OVER-thought it.Looks good except for the part I made bigger.![]()