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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all!

I've read through a bunch of different threads on here (Sticky 'flip' thread, somebody replacing their key, mentions of CRV keys, etc...) and haven't found a definitive answer as to whether or not someone has tried what I'm going to try.

I'm looking to get a Ridgeline all-in-one key to replace my Key+Fob for my 2005 Element. I understand that the immobilizers are different (2006's and later have a rolling code while 2005's and earlier have a fixed code) so I plan on taking the RFID 'pill' from a spare key and put it into the Ridgeline key to make it work. The dealer will only have to cut the key.

My only question is about using the remote portion (lock/unlock/panic) of the Ridgeline key with my Element. Will it work?

I'm unsure if the 'FCC ID' code is used to specify which immobilizer chip is inside, or if it specifies the compatiblity for the remote's lock/unlock/panic functionality.

Has anybody used the Ridgeline key with a 2005 or earlier Element?

If I go through with this, I'll take pictures and do a step-by-step.

Thanks in advance!
 

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if you take the chip out of your existing key and put it in place of the one that comes with the new key it will work

the remote will work fine.
 

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for those thinking of doing this...
the immobilizer chip imbedded in the key is entirely independent of the remote door lock/unlock.
so, 2 things to check/work out. the posters in this thread were successful, but, unless you know you have the identical setup, make sure you check both aspects of this conversion before going ahead.
maybe that's obvious to some, just wanted to make sure it's obvious to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Follow-up:

I received the 2 Ridgeline keys from HandA-accessories.com today.

First thing I did was make sure that the remotes would work with my '05 Element. After following the instructions at the bottom of this post, they both worked great (as I was expecting based on other member's replies).

Next step: disassemble my spare E keys to remove the RFID chip and transplant it to the Ridgeline keys so that the ignition disabler works properly.

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(I used a count of '3' for each step and it worked on the first try. I programmed my stock Element remote and 2 Ridgeline keys)

KEYLESS ENTRY PROGRAMMING
Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand.
Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming.
Only need to use 1 remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session.
Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.
1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed
2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by “II” on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the “Lock” button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.
3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by “I” on the ignition bezel – dash lights go off.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) – each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.
5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to “ON”, press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.
6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.
7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will “pop”.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are step-by-step photos on transplanting an immobilizer chip from an already-programmed key into the Ridgeline key. This will let you avoid the programming fee and all you'll need to do is get the key cut.

Removing the Immobilizer Chip from an Already-Programmed Key


1) Use a hammer and small chisel to remove one half of the existing key's casing. (This step was borrowed from a post in another thread here)



* If your key is marked with an 'RW', place the chisel on that side of the key. If it isn't, tap lightly. One side of the key has no obstructions all the way to the keyring 'hole' while the other side has some plastic inside that will get in the way. If you encounter that plastic, flip the key and chisel the other side.

2) Chisel the case off all the way to the keyring 'hole'



3) Use 2 pairs of pliers to remove the key blade and chip holder from the key case



4) Remove the immobilizer chip from the plastic housing. You don't need to pry; just flip the key and tap it on the counter.

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Transplanting the Immobilizer Chip to the Ridgeline Key


1) Use a small screwdriver to remove the screw on the Ridgeline key



2) Open the case. The section next to the keyring 'hole' may stick a little but there is no glue; it will just pop open.



3) Locate the existing immobilizer chip. It is in a little compartment near the key blade. Remove the little cover on it using a small flathead screwdriver. Then, pry out the chip. This step may require a little force as it is glued in there.



You can see on my first Ridgeline key, I used quite a bit of force because there was a lot of glue on it. On the second Ridgeline key, it just popped out.

4) Put the immobilizer chip that you removed from your existing key into the compartment. It actually fits perfectly without modification.



5) Dab a *little* glue (I used Crazy Glue) on top of the chip to hold it in place.



6) If you didn't mangle the compartment too much, you can put the little cover back on it.

7) Reassemble the key

8 ) Go get it cut at a locksmith or local Honda dealer. Be sure to tell them that you DO NOT NEED TO GET IT PROGRAMMED!!! JUST CUT!!! This will save you from $40 - $120 depending on how much the dealer charges for programming.
 

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Awesome instructions there sfritzinger!!!! I did the Acura 04 TL key
mode, but if I decide I want to do the Ridgeline key as well, I will be
back to this post!!!! Thanks for posting all the pics!!!

:D
 

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thanks for the post!

BTW that's also a Fit key, I'm kind of partial to the TL key due to the folded length.

Good luck to all who partake in this mod.
 

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good stuff. now how do I do this for a 2006 E? You mention the code is rolling. So what do I do?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
good stuff. now how do I do this for a 2006 E? You mention the code is rolling. So what do I do?
I know on the 2006+ Elements they changed immobilizer units. I'm not sure if they use the same immobilizer units in the 2006+ Ridgeline though.

If they do, you should be able to have your Honda dealer program the Ridgeline key for your car. That costs money though. Some dealers have charged over $100 just to program the newer chip.

You can always transplant your existing key's already-programmed immobilizer chip to the Ridgeline key and avoid the programming cost. That should always work regardless of the year of vehicle (unless somebody else has been told differently).
 

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So if I just follow your steps it's the same thing regardless of the year?
 

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I used an 06 Ridgeline key. The E key wouldn't register the immobilizer chip in the key cutter, so reprogramming the ecu was required for starting, in addition to mating the remote functions for lock/unlock. Very pleased.
 

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the keys arent programmed at the time they are cut, they have to be added to the immobilizer in the truck VIA the Honda service computer, or you have to remove the chip from your already working regular key and put it where the chip was in the new key.
 

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My first mod.... problems with the Ridgeline key.

I just did this for my 2005 "E". I had a couple of opps and some greats! I thought i'd pass along.

1. I followed the instructions for this mod, buy ordering the key from H&A.

2. Since I only had one key when I bought this 6 days ago. I called several dealers to find the price. $51 for a key & $49 to program it. WTF!!! I kept reading up on the EOC and called on dealer and asked if they could just copy or "CLONE" the key. -Yes $35.

3. Had two keys made and back home I went to take them apart. The Ridgeline keys were in and very simple to take apart. Went back to the same dealer and told them I just needed the Ridgeline keys "Cut, Not Programed". They did it for no charge on both keys.

4. Here's the first OPPS. I grabbed the hammer and chisle and gave my new key a good swack. The chisle went right into the chip. AARRGGHHH!!!! (pic shows how bad it was)


5. Barrowed my brothers Dremel and this time cut the sides off.


6. Using a small screwdriver pry open the sided from the top.


7. Peal back the black rubber housing the chip.


8. Pry off the chip. I used a razor blade.


Thats it. Safely removed. Thank God I had three keys.
 

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I have 2004 Element and I am hoping to get a Ridgeline key today or tomorrow. My fob started acting up again. It sticks and constantly locks the doors, and beeps and beeps... I have taken it apart a few times. I have always wanted a ridgeline key and today/tomorrow is the day.

Is there a specific part number for the ridgeline key? Both dealers in my area (north west arkansas NWA) aren't familiar with this mod.

I don't want to open up my old element key as I don't have to tools where I am.

Thanks for the info in advance!

Ken
 

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Thanks for the PN!

Dealer charged me about $60 for a new ridgeline key. They said they couldn't clone it. I would have to pay the $50 or so for them to program the immobilizer. I will see if I can cut my working element key apart tonight. I don't have a lot of tools so we shall see. On my element key there is only one letter "F" I will start the chisel on that side and go slowly.
 

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I did this mod the other week. I have an '04 Element which had a glass transponder pill rather than the chip shown elsewhere in this post. I ordered a blank valet key (35114-S9A-A01) with the hopes of using the transponder from it and salvaging my working valet key. When I chiseled the blank valet key, I wasn't as cautious as I should have been and broke the transponder pill's glass exterior. I decided to sacrifice my working valet key and was much more careful with the chisel. I was able to extract the transponder pill and I saved myself the hassle of having to get the dealer to program the car for the new transponder from the blank key.

I noticed the interior of the new blank key I ordered and my original valet key were different. I've posted them here for reference. The darker key on the left is the original, the lighter key on the right is the new key (35114-S9A-A01). Either way if you're chiseling, take it easy and lift off short chunks of plastic at a time. Make sure the rubber pill housing stays below your chisel.

 
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