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A few members have reported rough idle and poor running.....fixed after a valve adjustment.

There have been 1 or 2 reports (that I can remember) of burned valves and valve/head replacement being required. The amount of info and details of those situations are sketchy and limited unfortunately.

I do know that repair of a damaged valve train/head due to misadjusted valves is "involved." (read:expensive) I also feel that a simple check is relatively easy to do, so a bit of maintenance every 100k or so could save a decent amount of money for someone who plans on keeping their E for a long time.

There was lots of mis-information floating around, comparing the E with the similar CR-V and its "famous burnt valve synmdrome." Earlier CR-Vs used a different motor (B series) that did have some valve problems, but they are very different from the K motor in the Element. (the K is also used in 2002(?) and newer Cr-Vs.)

Also, I spoke with someone w/ a K motor CR-V the other day who said the local dealer charged only $150 for the valve check. I mentioned high numbers before because that is all I'd heard at that point. I've never been to a dealer for service, so I don't have any real experience w/ their pricing. I'd say that $100-$150 or so is plenty reasonable. (especially when ya only gotta pay it every 100k!)
 

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I did mine for the second time this past weekend. It is just short of 115k miles.

I did first check around 55k. It was just an inspection, i didn't have to mess w/ anything. All the valves were in spec, one or two were near the tight end of the range, but still ok.

This time they were all "tight." None were dangerously tight, and a few were at the tight end of the acceptable range, but I adjusted every single valve, intake and exaust. They're all very much at the loose end of the range, and are plenty quiet.

I'll check again around 160-170k miles and let ya'll kow what happens.

Also, I don't remember seeing it mentioned here or in the service manual, but I think it is a lot easier to remove the P/S hose from the pump and tuck it off to the side to allow better access to the valve cover. Last time I scuffed the valve cover w/ the metal ring on the hose pulling the cover off. This time I removed those 2 screws (use the same 10mm tool as you use on all the other fasteners), pulled it straight up & out, and stuffed a rag in the p/s pump hole. It made things much easier.
 

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This just doesn't seem right. If these cars really needed valve adjustments every 30,000 miles, why don't they say so in the manual? This is not what I've come to expect from Honda.

FWIW...(this is just my opinion, and worth what you pay for it) I don't think an adjustment is necessary with the K motors before 100k miles. Most have no problem at all going to 100k.

However, I do think it it worthwile to check them early, say around 50,000 or 60,000 miles just in case. If no adjustment is required, it is a fairly quick and simple procedure....that can save lots of money and trouble in the long run. If they are found to be out of spec, and adjustment can be made before any damage is done.
 

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adjusting clearances

Okay so I get how to take everything apart and put it back together, but what is the procedure for adjusting the clearances. I just want to make sure this is clear to me before I start
 

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well the easy way is if the roller is at the bottom then put the lobe at the top for each valve you do. kinda like a clock, the intake rocker roller is about 7 oclock so the top of the lobe should be about 1 oclock. and you ajust them with the feller gauge inbetween the valve and the rocker, you will need the bent type feller gauge. the ex valves is a pain in the but to get the feeler gauge in there.
 

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what is the procedure for adjusting the clearances. I just want to make sure this is clear to me before I start
see the 4th post of this thread for a picture.

You slip the feeler guage in there....try seveal sizes to find out what your clearance is. If it is "off" you need to loosen the locking nut and then turn the adjuster w/ a flat blade screw driver. (or use the special tool) Loosen or tighten the adjuster to get the "gap" correct. The correct size feeler guage should have some slight "drag" when inserted, but shouldn't flop around or be tight or need to be "jammed" into place.

Now hold the adjuster w/ the screwdriver and tighten the locking nut back down tight. Recheck the gap. Don't be surprised if it changed....loosen up and try again.

By the time you get to the last valve or two you'll have the hang of it. :twisted: Don't worry, it ain't as hard as it sounds. You'll have some trouble with the first few valves, but it goes much easier and quiccker once you get used to it.

Godd luck, have fun. ;-)

Will
 

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and move the feeler gauge around & up & down to make sure it isant in a bind.if it is in a bind it can feal tight but in reality still be loose.
 

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Yes, the gauge must be square on to give you a true feel. That's why folks recommend the angled gauges.

Throwing in a tidbit: valve cover torque sequence.



Adjustment nuts are 10mm.

Torque
Exhaust: 10 ft. lbs. / 120 inch lbs. / 13.6 Newton meters / 138 kilogram centimeters / 1.38 kilogram meters
Intake: 15 ft. lbs. / 180 inch lbs. / 20.3 Newton meters / 207 kilogram centimeters / 2.07 kilogram meters
 

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With the help of this thread and a factory service manual, I did the valve adjustment and spark plug replacement for the first time on my 05 EX with 92,500 miles.

I learned some interesting things in the process.

1. I would never make it as a flat rate mechanic. I probably spent 6 or 7 hours in the process, but it will take much less time next time.

2. I should have done it sooner as all valves, intakes as well as exhaust were at 8 or 9 thousands except for #4 cylinder where the intakes were at 6 and 7. Now all intakes are at 9 or 10 and exhausts are at 12 or 13.

3. The cams appeared to be in excellent condition with no pitting or brinelling. I have used Castrol Syntec 5-20 since break-in.

4. It's sort of a fiddely (tech term) process to get them right as the adjustment screws have a fairly course thread pitch an .001 inch doesn't take much of a turn to the screw.

5. Because of what I learned about the clearances I will now check them more often, perhaps every 50 K or so.

6. Next I will do the 07 Accord SE with 77,000 miles on it and see what's going on with them.

7. I was very impressed with the way the valve train was built, particularly the roller cam followers etc. I have adjusted valves on a lot of Mercedes, BMWs and Porsches over the years and none of them had roller cam followers.
 

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I adjusted mine last year (very slightly out of spec but since I was in there I adjusted them all from scratch anyways) and I know a few of the exhaust ones are a pain to get at due to their proximity to the cylinder head walls and the rocker assembly posts. Being a shorter guy at just under 5'8", it was a fun time reaching to the back to get them just right. I'm picky so I found myself doing some of them a couple times over to ensure they were within specification.

Someone said the adjusters do not turn when tightening the jam nut and I beg to differ :razz:. I've performed a couple Maintenance Minder 4 services (timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, spark plugs) on Ridgelines and Odysseys and I had to press down on the rocker to keep the adjuster from turning when tightening the jam nut. Nothing worse than getting the adjustment within spec only to see it turn when tightening the nut :roll:.
 

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Great Write up!
Thanks for that!

I've got good news and bad news...
The good news is that I made it through the valve adjustment @ 116k and it was over due for sure. the exhaust on the #2 & #4 were Very tight. It comes recommended from me.

The bad news is that I broke an bolt while reinstalling the valve cover.
Can anyone help me identify the part number I need to replace? I'm hoping that I don't have to pull the valve cover to replace this. if i'm lucky I can unscrew from the top side with Vice grips and replace.
Thoughts?





 

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if it is #8 prpbably not, but if you pull up the steel washer and the rubber grommet and look in there to see if you can get a socket down there to the nut portion of the stud you might be able to do it.you will need to know the correct torque of the stud in to the head, that one holds the cam shaft support /bearing cap in so it might be nesssary. good luck.
 

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pretty frustrating for sure - but at least it's only a $5 bolt.

Yeah after pulling the rubber grommet up it's painfully evident that i've got more work ahead of me.

I am thinking it shouldn't leak too much oil until I can get to it though.
 

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in case anyone is wondering: The valve clearance will always get tighter as more miles are put on the engine. Even though all engines (with aluminum heads) use hardened valve seats, over time and use, they will "slightly" pound out. (ie..the valve sinks lower into cylinder head) As they slowly sink, the clearance tightens up. Because of the heat going through the exhaust valves, they will pound out faster(and tighten up faster).

For those that wonder if its really important to do this: Yes. Remember, that clearance you measured shrinks as the metals expand at operating temperature, once the clearance tightens enough, there will be NO to negative clearance when at operating temp, then exhaust valves will start to not fully close, which leads to them overheating from the gasses constantly escaping past, then you end up with a burnt exhaust valve...game over
 

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Here's a question for you all regarding the valve adjustment.
I was adjusting mine by turning the camshaft instead of the crankshaft. Now the timing marks are off (after a noise that was reminiscent of loosening a very rusty bolt) I'm wondering if I broke the tensioner for the timing chain or if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks.
By the way--the forums have much better advice than the factory manual as far as the valve adjustment goes.
 

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The factory manual is not so great.

That's a nice synopsis. I don't have the Helms, but I do have a Honda Element Factory shop manual.
No mention of how to turn the crank at this section of the manual. The refer to the section on valve cover removal before accessing the valves, but don't reference the crank bolt when they tell you to turn the crank.
I naively turned the camshaft, and think I may have broke the tensioner.

The post here is much better with picks of the crank access.
 

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There is a door on the timing chain cover that will allow you to access the tensioner and remove and check , the tensioner is only a $40 item ....

Good luck
 

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Suggestions?

Should I pull off the timing cover and see what's going on?

I'm definitely not starting the motor or even reassembling the top. Should I pull the cams off and realign the timing marks?

Should I go so far as to pull the head and inspect the valves and pistons for damage? I was hand turning, so don't think I bent a valve. But it is an interference engine.
 
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