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Update.

The intake cam and exhaust cam are about 2 teeth apart from lining up. Is there any way to get them realigned without pulling the timing chain?

Also, reading the manual, there seems to be a locking mechanism in the VTEC mechanism on the cam, and I'm concerned that this must be released before reassembling the mechanism.
 

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2 teeth , I don't even want to know how you pulled the timing off by 2 teeth . You must start all over again and align all timing marks ...... By now you should have this down , pat ...... no pun intended .........
 

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Its probably off by two teeth just due to slack in the chain because of the tensioner mishap.
 

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tensioner mishap

Its probably off by two teeth just due to slack in the chain because of the tensioner mishap.
That's kind of what I was thinking. I may order a tensioner and replace it through the view port per the factory manual, and if that doesn't work, then reset the timing.
 

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A bit of a lesson

The tensioner operates via oil pressure and it's possible to skip teeth if you turn the camshaft while adjusting the valves INSTEAD of the crankshaft, per the instructions.
This will require, removal of the cam chain and resetting your camshafts and crank to the TDC marks.
NO BUENO.
 

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Oh. And here's my really bad video of it:

 
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Hi all, new to the forum here. I was an auto tech for 8 years, so I know my way around an engine, but mainly I did brake and suspension work. I'm old now, and have "lost my touch" since I buy new cars and don't have to fix them alot...but still do all my own work when needed and have all necessary tools.

I have a 2002 CRV, same engine as the E...and am looking to set valves. I've read through all this and have a few questions. Perhaps the answers were in here somewhere, but there have been a lot of numbers thrown around.

1) What is the torque spec on
a) The valve adjusting nuts
b) The valve cover bolts/nuts (I saw someone broke one, so I want to be careful)

2) The Hondatech guy posted a very good pic of how to identify the 4 places at which you set the valves...but it's not very detailed. How do you tell when the marks on the cam gears are exactly straight up or down? Is there another mark on the housing or block face somewhere?

3) The main reason I'm doing mine (72,000 miles) is noise...do most of you notice a quieter engine after?

4) My belt is also squeaking a bit...probably glazed, so I may change it...is that easier to do for any reason during this job? Or can I do that separately later with no "rework"?

5) On an unrelated note...I notice that my brake pedal gets kind of a "sticky" feel to it about every 2 years...and if I spray a lubricant around the little pushrod under the dash where it goes into the master cylinder, it goes away for 1-2 years...do you have this issue on your Es? If so, how do you deal with it? I'll try graphite this time.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Welcome, Alloy Dave.

> 1) What is the torque spec on
> a) The valve adjusting nuts
Per post #28, the exhaust is 10 lb./ft., intake 15 lb./ft.

> is [changing the serpentine belt] easier to do during this job?
The valve adjustment doesn't require removing the serpentine belt, so no advantage to doing it now.
 

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I just did this at 156,000 miles (a little late, I know) after experiencing some hesitation and two incidents of stalling.

The job was pretty straightforward, though the feel takes some getting used to. As previously noted, the gauges must be perfectly square to give you correct feedback on the gap, and getting them in place is a bit awkward, especially on the exhaust side.

I disconnected the power steering hose at the pump to get the valve cover off and then and back on, but it needs to be connected while you're turning the engine, or else fluid will spit out of the pump. I also disconnected a second vacuum hose at the far end of the steel vacuum line, and a wire harness anchor, to make it easier to finagle the cover back on. Small, thin bungee cords helped to hold the ps hose and other parts out of the way.

My feeler gauges (angled gauges are a must!) start at 0.005, so I couldn't measure the valves that were the tightest, so I just noted that they are less than .005. Only one valve was in spec, and it was on the tight end of spec. You can see that the exhaust valves were very tight indeed.

INTAKE
1a: .007
1b: .007
3a: .006
3b: .006
4a: .006
4b: .005
2a: .008
2b: .005

EXHAUST
1a: .005
1b: .005
3a: .005
3b: .005
4a: .007
4b: <.005
2a: <.005
2b: 005

I replaced the valve cover gasket (p/n 12341-RTA-000), power steering hose O ring (91370-SV4-000), spark plugs, and spark plug tube seals (30522-PFB-007). The new seals took some convincing to get them over the tubes, but a little bit of assembly lube helped there.

You can easily see the four spots where the Hondabond needs to go.

I didn't replace the valve cover bolt washers (90441-RAA-A00) but would if I were to do it again.

IMO it's definitely worth removing the passenger's side road wheel to get easy access to the crank bolt through the fender liner.

Intake valves were set at .010, exhaust at .013, the loose end of spec, with the idea that they will tighten up over time. The valvetrain does tap a little, but I repeat the "slappy valves are happy valves" mantra to remind myself that it's OK.

One other thing: Clean the engine ahead of time, and it'll be easier to clean the area where the cover gasket sits.
 

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Since we're confessing here about deferred maintenance... :D

I did our 2003 about a month ago for the first time, coincidentally at the same mileage as yours, 156K or thereabouts. I had only two valves out of spec, an exhaust at .010 and an intake at .011. .001" is nuthin' of concern. I adjusted four in total, putting two that were at the edge of "OK" back at the center of the range. It was barely worth pulling the cover off.

We had no drivability issues, this was purely PM as I was sending it off with our college kid, possibly not to be seen (the car, that is) for a couple of years.

This has to be a tangible benefit of the 6MT. At highway speeds, RPM stays below 3K while it's racking up the miles. One of the lesser incentives for the six-speed was theoretical decreases in wear and tear, and so far the reality is bearing that out.

Our 2008 is a little clattery when cold, however, so given the relative ease of this task I need to run through its valvetrain and verify everything is cool there, too.
 

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One problem I ran in to was when tightening up the 6 nuts that anchor down the cover, a few started getting tight but then never got tighter. I can spin them. What happened? This happened prior to me getting it as tight as it was when I removed it. How big of a problem is this? Is it something that needs to be addressed? Will it work fine or will it need to be out of commission until something is done?
Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
 

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Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
Took forever to get a nut off and it does seem that the bolt was stripped. Going to replace them all tomorrow and getting new nuts too. Tonight I will be grabbing a torque wrench. I've put off getting one for too long, and it caught up to me.

Tough advice, but it's the truth. Thanks Dan!
 

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Luckily a dealer in town had all the parts for me. I just replaced all the bolts and nuts just in case there was some thread damage on the others. Getting some of the bolts loose was tough but after that it was a breeze. Also snagged a Torque wrench from Sears to do the job. Thanks Einstein for a great thread!
 

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Going to do this but am wondering about the necessary replacement parts. I don't want to have the engine open and then need parts that are out of stock at the dealer or anything like that.

How much if this is necessary?
Honda bond (part #?)
valve cover gasket (12341-RTA-000)
spark plugs, and spark plug tube seals (30522-PFB-007)
valve cover bolt washers (90441-RAA-A00)

What about 12030-RAA-A01 GASKET SET, HEAD COVER

What does that include?
The gasket set comes with the gasket plug seals and top grommets.

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_parts_list.php?vin=&Label[ProductID]=ELEMENT&Label[YearID]=2008&Label[DoorID]=5&Label[GradeID]=EX+(4WD)&Label[AreaID]=KA&Label[TransmissionID]=5MT&Label[SectionID]=ENGINE&Label[IllustrationGroupID]=CYLINDER+HEAD+COVER&ProductID=15&YearID=39&DoorID=3&GradeID=457&AreaID=2&TransmissionID=3&SectionID=1&IllustrationGroupID=11456

At minimum I would replace the gasket and plug seals. The top grommets seldom leak on new Hondas.
 

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Tackled this today...went off great...except of you have a manual transmission MAKE SURE TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL..I put so much effort into turning it and I lost, it was so so strong- I gave up...then did some internet sleuthing and found that you should put it in neutral (did I miss it in the first post?)- once I put it in neutral smooth sailing.

Car has about 130,000 miles on it. My exhausts were all tight as heck, less than .07! Some of the intakes were tight but not by much, a few were out of the tolerance. I made them all the looser end of spec.
 

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MAKE SURE TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL
Removing the spark plugs will also ease turning the engine. Just be sure no foreign objects fall down the holes!

Then when I was putting everything back together I was rushing and overtightened one of the bolts ... the one all the way to the far left and closest to the front of the car. Anyone know the part number of this?
Seems like you need either #8 or #9.



Looking at the helms manual and can't find the part # for it anywhere.
You won't find part numbers in the service manual. A few online parts sources, in alpha order:

Bernardi (Massachusetts)
Cheap Honda Parts (California)
College Hills Honda (Ohio)
Honda Parts Deals (Rhode Island)
Honda Parts Now (California)
Honda Parts Store (Maryland)
Honda Parts Unlimited (Arizona)
Majestic (Rhode Island)
My Honda Parts Store (Oklahoma)
Real Honda Parts (Texas)
YourHondaParts.com (Arizona)
 

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What kind of torque wrench are you guys using for the valve locking nuts and the valve cover. I have a big one I use for wheel lugs and other big jobs. Are you using a small one that can measure under 20lbs.?
 

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Kinsha, yes a inch pound 1/4 drive torque wrench is best for torque specs with valve adjustment. Got mine from amazon good deal, precision instrustruments 1/4 drive. An example intake locknuts torque to 20NM=177inlbs, exhaust 14NM=124inchlbs. (Maybe that's why the exhaust is always tight 53 inslb difference ?)
 
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