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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished a valve adjustment. It started right up sounded ok, then went to 3k rpm and sat there for a minute or so, then the rpm dropped and ramped back up. It started cycling between 3k and almost stalling. I shut it off and looked for vacuum leaks or a disconnected sensor. Didn't see anything so I tried it again, same thing after about 20 seconds. then the check engine light came on. It's dark now but I'm wondering if a vacuum leak would do this or if it's a sensor, could i have mis-adjusted the valves? It was running fine before I messed with it.
 

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While I suppose its possible that having the valves adjusted wrong could cause that, I would think they would have to be way out of adjustment. (could be wrong, but seems that the valves not adjusted properly would result in rough running, not bouncing revs)

I Had this exact problem after pulling the throttle body and intake manifold for a starter motor change. For me, it was a leaking o-ring(though it isn't round) with the IACV. I took apart the IACV, cleaned it up, bought a new o-ring and the world was right again.

If it is indeed the IACV, do a search on here for that, and you will find a thread detailing how to take it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks, sounds like a leak could cause the problem. I took out my K&N filter and cleaned it while I had things apart, I'll look at the throttle body and IACV and look for any other possible leaks tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks I had read that on cleaning the IACV. I'm pretty sure it's something I caused. Last week I changed the motor mounts and transmission mount; I moved alot of stuff around doing that and then the valve adj. but I guess it could be from the computer going back to defaults and seeing things it learned around. thanks for that list Ramblerdan That will be handy even if I don't get my own reader. Waiting for daylight.
 

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Let us know how it goes.

I will say on mine, I simply removed the throttle body and laid it on a workbench, then reinstalled it when done, and that was enough to cause the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
It's a beautiful day here in northern california, clear about 56°f. I went out and took the lid off the air cleaner and checked all the hoses I could see, re-seated the sensor connectors and the IACP connector, checked the wiring under the dash since I had recently installed a factory wiring harness for the new fog lights; but I really didn't see anything. So I put it back together started it up and went for a 20 mile drive. Runs most amazing, it sounds stronger and the motor mounts really helped the torque steer and the bit of shaking that was starting under acceleration. I stopped at Auto Zone to see if they'd loan me a OBD2 scanner and was told that as of July 1st last year they no longer loan or rent them in California. Came back and let it idle in the driveway for a few minutes, it started hunting a tiny bit, when i revved it up that went away, I tried holding it at a constant RPM and after about 10 seconds it started acting as though a rev limiter was killing 2 cylinders. Weird. So happy that it runs and turns better than it did when I bought it at 70k, now 105260 miles. Just got a call from Concord Honda saying that my fog lamp switch came in, but I'm going to take the R1100 for a ride. It's too nice a day to be inside. If my friend comes through with a scanner I'll let you know what the codes are. Thanks for the ideas. I never would have tried doing half of this stuff if I hadn't read it on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just took the E in for a smog test. Had them check thr codes and there was one for the IACV saved in mem memory. But it passes so it's all good now.
 
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