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Well my dear EOC friends I have had my first problem with my Element after 96,000 miles. While driving down the road the other day my malfunction indicator lamp came on. I instantly thought it was my gas cap so I removed and reinstalled it and took off again but I started cutting out and losing power. I instantly thought it was an 02 sensor, plugs, wires, or cat. convert. so I took it in to Autozone this morning to have the code pulled and got [PO2646 Rocker Arm off or stuck] code. I have never heard of such a code so I took it in to my dealership for them to hook it up and see what they find. I was wondering if anyone else has heard of this code or has any clue what could be the possible cause. Ill keep you updated.
 

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Re: Malfunction Light and Code 2646

BriBoy01 said:
Well my dear EOC friends I have had my first problem with my Element after 96,000 miles. While driving down the road the other day my malfunction indicator lamp came on. I instantly thought it was my gas cap so I removed and reinstalled it and took off again but I started cutting out and losing power. I instantly thought it was an 02 sensor, plugs, wires, or cat. convert. so I took it in to Autozone this morning to have the code pulled and got [PO2646 Rocker Arm off or stuck] code. I have never heard of such a code so I took it in to my dealership for them to hook it up and see what they find. I was wondering if anyone else has heard of this code or has any clue what could be the possible cause. Ill keep you updated.

According to the service manual code 2646 is for rocker arm switch (VTEC oil pressure switch) low voltage.
 

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vtec pressure switch

I have the ussual problem of the Element bogging down at 4,000 rpm's. I took it to my dealer and the code is the "V-tech pressure switch" They told me it was $65.00 for the switch and $210.00 to install it.Is this the same as the oil pressure switch? Where is this switch located and How much does this switch truley cost. I do need to get this done, but I do not want to be ripped off. They want about $80.00 per hour.

I bought my element brand new in 2003 and now have 76,000 miles on it. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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same prob...

I've had the same problem and they said the code showed that it was the vtec sensor, so they replaced the switch/sensor. Did the same thing after the replacement, so they said it was the fuel pump, replaced that. Still doing the same thing. Now they say it may just be a bad connection or cylanoid.....hit and miss sure hurts the pocket book. Of course min's out of warranty :(
 

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V-tec control switch - acceleration problems

I had my Element in the dealership twice in early December to have the V-tec control switch replaced and then the next piece up the food chain as well. Well, today the same problem happened - at 60 mph on the freeway, accelerated and lost power. This is the third time in < 2 months, anyone else having similar problems? My E is around 70k miles. Regular maintenance, oil changes, etc, so I'm trying to figure out if it's a bigger issue (i.e. lemon) than just dirt causing the clogged screens (at least that's how they explained the cause to me last time).
 

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ramblerdan said:
They said a clogged screen caused components to fail?

Did they say the VTC strainer or the VTEC Solenoid Valve filter was clogged? In either case, the manual recommends changing the engine oil and filter at the same time to prevent further contamination. The VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve also appears to have screens that could clog.
what do you know, i changed the oil and filter last night and it's fine. took it on the highway to try and recreate the problem and nothing. took my son to school this morning and the engine light was off. thanks!
 

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Vtec oil sensor problem

I didnt have this problem till I hit a deer and had the vehicle fixed and they said the Vtec sensor had a recall and they replaced it for nothing since its a recalled part. Now year and half later getting the same problem and they replaced the sensor again saying the oil needed to be changed which I had changed 3 weeks prior to the problem showing up. The Honda dealer said the screen was cloged and they cleaned it and said to change the oil again which I did. IT STILL HESITATES AT 3000 RPM after all this!! But I noticed it doesnt do the hesitation until after it is heated up from driving for about 5 minutes. Wish there was some way to bypass that sensor totally and get rid of it!!
 

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HELP: OBD Codes - What is Wrong?

2003 Element E, 57,000 Miles, auto trans, I just bought 125 miles ago and the check engine light is haunting me already! I thought I got it fixed with a gas cap but no such luck! :mad: I ran an OBD II and got several codes. I hope somebody can pinpoint the problem. I'm guessing coil packs but it's just a guess based on nothing but gut feeling and no experience. The codes are as follows:

P2647: Bank 1 Stuck on Actuator A

P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

P0300: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
 

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The P2647 is a VTEC pressure switch high voltage DTC. It may be as simple as needing to replace the switch (P/N 37250-PNE-G01).

The switch is the part indicated as #12. You'll need a deep 22mm thin wall (non-impact) socket to replace it. You should replace the o-ring with the new switch (#15)

Make sure you check your oil level ASAP as some VTEC DTCs are set due to a loss of oil pressure due to low oil levels.

The misfire DTC's can be disregarded until the VTEC system is operating correctly.
 

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Well, I took it back to the dealer where I bought it and they told me it was the oil pressure switch. They replaced it and sent me on my way. Check engine light came on again within 8 miles! :-x I'm going camping this weekend so I'll check and post the new codes this coming Monday.
 

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Well, I took it back to the dealer where I bought it and they told me it was the oil pressure switch. They replaced it and sent me on my way. Check engine light came on again within 8 miles! :-x I'm going camping this weekend so I'll check and post the new codes this coming Monday.

The dealer where you bought it? A non-Honda dealer, right?

I hope that they replaced the correct pressure switch.

Did you verify your engine oil level? If your fault is NOT due to a faulty pressure switch, or an electrical circuit fault to or within the PCM, then it is either a bad VTEC control solenoid, sludge clogging the oil circuit OR low oil pressure / oil starvation.

Good luck!

JD
 

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IT IS ALREADY BROKEN DOWN AGAIN!!!

The dealer where you bought it? A non-Honda dealer, right?
Correct, it was a VW dealer that I have been dealing with for several years and trusted.

I hope that they replaced the correct pressure switch.

Did you verify your engine oil level? If your fault is NOT due to a faulty pressure switch, or an electrical circuit fault to or within the PCM, then it is either a bad VTEC control solenoid, sludge clogging the oil circuit OR low oil pressure / oil starvation.
I am not sure which switch they replaced but the check engine light came on within 8 miles of picking the car up after the work and the engine started cutting out within 10 miles. It won't go over 2,000 RPM without cutting out. When I step on the gas pedal it just bogs and gets nothing until I let off the gas pedal. The oil level is good. Which switch should have been replaced? The mechanic is out of town until next Wednesday so I'm without a car again. :-x
 

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IT IS ALREADY BROKEN DOWN AGAIN!!!



Correct, it was a VW dealer that I have been dealing with for several years and trusted.



I am not sure which switch they replaced but the check engine light came on within 8 miles of picking the car up after the work and the engine started cutting out within 10 miles. It won't go over 2,000 RPM without cutting out. When I step on the gas pedal it just bogs and gets nothing until I let off the gas pedal. The oil level is good. Which switch should have been replaced? The mechanic is out of town until next Wednesday so I'm without a car again. :-x

The part number on your invoice should be the part number I listed in post #11.

I do not disparage the abilities of a technician that you trust. Unless he has the correct service information available to him, and a scan tool that will allow him to view the operating parameters, it can be difficult to perform a correct diagnosis and repair.

This may help:

The VTEC system increases the amount of intake valve lift for increased power. It accomplishes this by turning a control solenoid 'ON' to allow oil pressure into the VTEC control passages to apply pins that will lock the intake rockers. When the oil pressure is present, the pressure switch signal will go high. When the control solenoid is turned 'OFF', the oil pressure is dumped and the oil pressure switch signal will go low.

simply stated, normal system operation to the PCM would look like: Solenoid 'ON' = pressure switch 'OFF'
Solenoid 'OFF' = pressure switch 'ON'

If the pressure switch signal is not logical for the commanded state of the control solenoid, a DTC will set and the PCM will go into a 'fuel-cut' mode limiting engine rpm and performance. The PCM simply doesn't 'know' what the state of the intake valves are, so you end up with the symptoms you describe.

Clearing the DTC, disconnecting the VTEC oil pressure switch and using a jumper wire to short the signal wire to ground and keeping your RPM below 2700 when driving would prevent VTEC from engaging and you could operate your vehicle. This ASSUMES that you actually do have engine oil pressure to keep from grenading your engine. I assume that you have not had issues with the red oil pressure light in the IP flickering or staying 'ON'? Your particular DTC would not be caused by a low oil pressure issue, but I prefer to be very cautious in this area, since I am not seeing the vehicle first hand and have to rely entirely on 2nd/3rd party information.

The most common VTEC issues we see are, in order of frequency: very low engine oil levels that result in starvation under hard accelleration, faulty VTEC oil pressure switches, faulty VTEC oil control solenoids, sludged / clogged oil passages in the VTEC oil control circuit, wiring harness / connector terminal damage, bad PCM.

The description of pressure switch operation may seem confusing, so compare it to how the regular oil pressure warning lamp works. When you have the ignition 'ON' and the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure. The oil pressure switch is spring-loaded closed (ON) providing a path to ground and the warning lamp stays illuminated. If this was a feedback circuit to the control module, the module would see a 'LOW' voltage because the voltage is being dropped to ground.

When you start the engine, engine oil pressure overcomes the spring tension in the switch, causing it to open (OFF). This removes the path to ground, current cannot flow and the warning lamp goes 'OFF.' A feedback circuit to a control module would see a 'HIGH' voltage potential because the circuit is 'open' - no continuity to ground.

Your 'HIGH VOLTAGE' DTC means that the VTEC oil pressure feedback circuit is staying electrically 'OPEN' all the time. Either the switch is bad, the wiring is broken somewhere, or the control solenoid is leaking oil pressure into the VTEC circuit when it is supposed to be 'OFF' or the PCM is FUBAR.
 

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If the fault is not due to either a bad pressure switch or a wiring harness problem, then the PCM is either sensing high voltage on the oil pressure switch feedback circuit because there actually is oil under pressure within the VTEC hydraulic control circuit when there should not be any pressure, or the PCM is internally faulty causing it to incorrectly sense high voltage.

Oil pressure in the VTEC hydraulic circuit is verified to the PCM by high voltage on the VTEC oil pressure switch feedback circuit. An open circuit (unplugged sensor, broken wire, open contacts within the pressure switch) or a feedback circuit shorted to another voltage source, results in high voltage on this circuit.

It is actually pretty rare IMO for a Honda PCM to 'go bad' on it's own. Most often the fault will be found elsewhere.

This really is a pretty simple circuit in the way it operates, and shouldn't be difficult to diagnose with a scan tool that can read Honda specific data parameters. Most non-Honda repair facilities will have scan tool capabilities to view the SAE mandated generic parameters, which would not include the VTEC system data parameters, so it will be a little more involved to diagnose.
 

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VTEC oil pressure switch

Open the hood, lean over where the power steering hose is attached to the cylinder head cover with a bracket and look straight down the back of the engine. The VTEC solenoid and pressure switch are mounted just above the oil filter. Use a deep, thin-walled 22mm socket. Good idea to replace the o-ring for the switch at the same time. (new o-ring is not included with Honda switch)
 

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Successful Repair for DTC P2646

On Christmas day my son was driving his 2005 Honda Element up a mountain road when the MIL came on. At first I thought he might have a transmission problem but after checking everything seemed fine. The engine would not rev over 2500 RPM. I scanned for codes and it came up P2646. I replaced the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch, cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive. After driving about one mile, the MIL came back on. The same code, P2646 came back.

I called a friend who happens to specialize in Hondas and he suggested that I clean the screen that is located in the same housing as the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch and Solenoid. The screen is designed to stop debris from getting into the Solenoid and VTEC Oil Pressure Switch. Upon removing the screen, I found it to be very dirty. I cleaned it with Brake Cleaner and Compressed Air and the car is running great now.

It is extremely important to keep the oil and filter changed regularly. I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this problem.
 

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I just searched for the same Code on my newly acquired 2005 Element. (Since I am a 30+ mechanic) I'll give you my opinion of what's wrong. After reading about 10 posts on the same problem, I'm going to say it's your it's the Valve Timing Solenoid (located on the passenger side above or oil filter enclosed in a L shaped heatshield thing with two electrical plugs on top). Clean the solenoid and filter, reset the CEL and try it again. Some people have replaced the Vtech Oil Pressure Switch and still had the Code but it went away after cleaning the filter/strainer. I'm going to change the oil and filter and clean the pressure switch filter. The part is the same on most all Vtech engines. One of the web Honda dealers sell the part for $41.00.
37250-PNE-G01 SWITCH ASSY., VALVE TIMING OILPRESSURE ( No Color) 55.17 41.38

I've also seen a Moderator that said if the Battery Voltage is low that it can throw some funny codes.

Capt. Mike
 

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I believe this code can be thrown when the ECU is trying to engage VTEC, but the solenoid does not respond... this can be caused by bad solenoid, or low oil pressure.

Just to confirm, did you say that you did an oil change and the light went away? If so, I am wondering if perhaps your oil level was low prior to the change, thus causing an low pressure situation.
 
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