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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From my other CC:


This is a re-hash of years of learning the wrong way and finally getting it
right. Some of you have seen this in the past. I should really save it
somewhere rather than re-writing every time. Here we go:

--------Washing---------
Products: P21S auto shampoo or Meguiars Gold shampoo, 3 - Australian Wool
Wash Mitts. Deep bucket with luke warm water, hose, spray nozzle with
multiple paterns

Technique: Use 2 capfulls of soap per bucket. Bring pre-filled luke warm
water bucket to lather with Jet setting on nozzle. Soak one mitt. Spray
down entire car with shower setting on nozzle. Use Flat setting on nozzle
for wheel wells, bug splatters, and exposed brake calipers. Keep entire car
wet during the whole washing process to eliminate water spots. Start
washing top of car first with well soaped mitt. Long strokes from front to
back of car only, making sure water from Shower setting on nozzle is
constantly "lubricating and dispensing" across surface being cleaned. Split
your car into Top Half (roof, hood, rear deck, glass, and sides above rubber
edging) and Bottom Half (below rubber edging, bumpers, and bodykits). One
mitt is to be used on Top Half, another mitt to be used on Bottom Half, and
a third mitt to be used on wheels. Remember for future washes which mitt is
which or there is no point in splitting them up! Remember... long strokes
from front of car to back of car and then reverse; never door to door or
headlight to headlight.

Notes: You will use many gallons of water during this process. I have the
mitt in my left hand washing while the hose is spraying water simultaneously
with the right hand. Make sure mitt is regularly dipped back in bucket for
a new application of soap. Never send mitt to bottom of bucket where grime
accumulates or let it fall on the ground. Toss mitt in garbage if it falls
to the ground. It is not necessary (or suggested) to press firmly with mitt
onto painted surfaces. No circular motion should EVER be made while
performing any process listed in this email (Karate Kid was WRONG!).

....to be continued.... next: Swirl removal, Polishing, Waxing
[/code]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Drying technique is just as important as washing.

------- Drying -----------

Products: P21S absorbant towel or The Absorber, 8 - COTTON towels (bath
size)

Technique:
Pull car into shaded area. Open up towels and LAY them onto horizontal
surfaces of car (hood, roof, deck, spoiler, etc.). Flatten the towels out
by running your hands across them without moving the towels on the surface
of the car. All horizontal surfaces should be covered by towels at this
point. Just let all of the towels lay absorbing surface water while
performing the next task. Take absorber towel and clean exterior of all
windows (including top glass). Wring out as required. Do not allow
absorber or cotton towels to touch ground. Continue on to vertical surfaces
of car (doors, bumpers, etc). Absorbers are very soft and will not scratch
paint- cotton will). Use the same forward to backward drying technique as
used with washing. When done with glass and vertical surfaces, remove
cotton towels from horizontal surfaces by pulling straight up (no swiping
across surface). Use Absorber to pick up any remaining water on horizontal
surfaces. Keep the wettest cotton towel handy. Fold up and put away
remainder of damp cotton towels for future use. Wash these towels every 3rd
time. Use dampest cotton towel to dry door jams first. Then dry trunk
jams, hood jams, etc. Finish by drying wheels with this towel. Wash this
towel after completing these tasks.

Notes: Do not use fabric softener in washer or dryer when cleaning car care
product. Remove tags on towels. Do not wash wash mitts with towels.
Absorber should be washed every other time. Absorber should last 6mos to a
year. Put absorber away damp. Really anal folk put small paper towels
between side mirror glass and side mirror housing to absorb all water that
gets trapped there.


Again, from my other cc. Ppl that drive cars which easily cost twice our babies. I know this is probably re-hash for a lot of you, but..as a PSA... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From my other list:

From an earlier thread/post on cleaning/detailing.


Mike Masson
[email protected]
1985 MR2 Stock daily driver/Autocross Street Tire Class
1972 510 2door fun car (eventually VG powered)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Blake" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:11 PM
Subject: [mr2-nw] MR2 <Gen> Behold the power of Griot's garage detailing products


Hello All,
A friend entrusted the care of his "new" 85NA to me this weekend, after I offered to try to restore his faded pink 17 year old paint to it's former glory. I keep a pretty extensive supply of Griot's garage ( www.griotsgarage.com ) detailing products in my garage, so I was pretty sure I could make the car look at least a little better than it was. This was the biggest challenge I'd put these excellent products to, and I was interested to see how well they would live up to the sales hype Griot's puts out about their products.

Here are before pictures of the car:

www.soundkwest.com/mr2/temp/85NA/whole car unwaxed.jpg

www.soundkwest.com/mr2/temp/85NA/hood unwaxed.jpg

Here are the "after" pictures:

www.soundkwest.com/mr2/temp/85NA/whole car waxed.jpg

www.soundkwest.com/mr2/temp/85NA/hood above waxed.jpg


The entire car was washed with Griot's car wash, prior to the "before" pictures.

Before pictures were taken.

All painted surfaces were treated with Griot's garage clay bar.

All painted horizontal surfaces were polished with Griot's machine polish #1.

All painted surfaces were polished with Griot's machine polish #2 and #3.

All painted surfaces received a coat of Griot's "Best of show" liquid carnauba wax.

All painted horizontal surfaces received a second coat of wax.

It took me about 6 hours worth of work, including the final detailing, which included cleaning all the windows, and vacuuming the interior, and applying Meguiar's extreme tire shine to the tires, and the black plastic trim, to include the mud flaps. All polishing and waxing was performed with a combination of an orbital buffer, and manually polishing the areas where the buffer was unusable.

As you can see, the car is RED again :)

I'd highly recommend this process to anyone with a Red MR2 of either generation. Oh, and I'm not affiliated with Griot's in any way, and am not receiving any compensation for making this post.

Best regards,

Ken
93T SMG "Deuce Coupe"
13.625 @ 102.5mph
http://www.soundkwest.com/mr2/93t.htm
AIM Name: DeuceCoupe93T


The guys n gals have been using this religiously in the club for years. Someone told me that peanut butter gets wax offa plastic. I'll check back with y'all on this!

Peace.
 
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