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Discussion Starter #1
My E has hit over 100,000 miles. I am planning on doing a full overhaul of my stock E suspension parts. For those with Es around this mileage mark, outside of the strut assemblies, tie rods and stabilizer links, what else should I have replaced while I've got it taken apart?

I've been fortune (very) to have everything last as long as it has, but the parts are on their last legs.
 

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My E has hit over 100,000 miles. I am planning on doing a full overhaul of my stock E suspension parts. For those with Es around this mileage mark, outside of the strut assemblies, tie rods and stabilizer links, what else should I have replaced while I've got it taken apart?

I've been fortune (very) to have everything last as long as it has, but the parts are on their last legs.
Bump because I am thinking the same thing. I know the rear sway bar bushings should be in the list.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's the list I've assembled so far just from looking at the undercarriage of the vehicle:

All four struts assemblies
Compliance bushings
Lower control arm ball joints
Tie rod ends
Sway bar links and bushings
Stabilizer links

What I don't know is if I'm missing any other wear/tear part.
 

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Is this a list of things that should be assessed for their condition or are you planning to replace all this stuff regardless given the mileage of your vehicle? My first thought is that things like tie rod ends, struts, and bushings should be replaced when they show signs of wear and need to be replaced and not necessarily on a set interval. Of course if I'm doing some other work on my car that results in improved access to these parts or otherwise might simplify their replacement, I can see considering it, but I can't necessarily see replacing this stuff because a car hits a certain mileage if otherwise there's no indication they are in need of replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
dgale:

Speaking of my own E, all of my struts have had it and are in need of replacing. The tie rods look worn so while I had the wheels off and had to get the struts out, I was going to go after the links, joints etc.

At over 100,000 miles it'd be my luck to skip on some of those things to have them fail one month later. It's all original. None of it's been replaced.
 

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....The tie rods look worn ....
You cannot see wear on a tie rod end. The wear occurs on the inside of the tie rod end. To see if it is bad, grab the tie rod and attempt to move it up and down. If it has play, then it is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey FL: Yeah, I was looking at the top of them...the rubber is dry and cracked, and in parts missing. The PS has got a little play...hopefully it'll last till spring. I'm trying to get through the winter and then do the work.
 

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Hey FL: Yeah, I was looking at the top of them...the rubber is dry and cracked, and in parts missing. The PS has got a little play...hopefully it'll last till spring. I'm trying to get through the winter and then do the work.
I assume the part you're talking about is the dust boot. You can buy replacement dust boots for a couple of bucks. They're a pain to replace because you have to disconnect the tie rod end to replace them, but still cheaper than replacement of the tie rod end.

PS play? Power Steering? Passenger Side? Explain...
 

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Suspension going out. Please help w/recommendations and info.

Hello everybody!
This is my first post! I've been reading the forum and I feel like you all are the best ones to answer my question(s). My shocks/struts are going out. I need to replace them. A mechanic told me "the front 2 struts are leaking. The back ones are starting to make sounds.* To replace all struts cost $1200." I'd like to do it myself if possible to save money.
Here are my questions:

1- I've read about a bunch of different things--struts, springs, mount, boot, or the full assembly. What of these do I need? I think it'd just be the struts and optional boots. Do I need the mounts, too?
2- Can/should I do this by myself? Is it complicated or simple? I'm handy with cars. I can do more than change brakes and oil on my own, but I'm no mechanic. Do I need any special tools besides a spring compressor to do this on my own? Can they be borrowed from a parts store? Also, I'm getting the gist that a spring compressor can be a sketchy thing to use? Thoughts?
3- What parts do you all recommend? I want to get decent ones...too cheap and they'd go bad quick I would guess. I don't just want the cheapest (unless they're still great parts). But I don't need the fanciest, performance struts either. I just want something that is good and will last. What are your opinions on brand/model, etc? I'm seeing KYB, and a couple types of Monroe (or is that OESpectrum for the rear and Sensa-Trac for the front?) I'm planning on replacing all four.
4- Where should I buy them? General parts store (Autozone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, etc.) or online (advanceautoparts.com, hondapartsnow.com)? What do you think has the best prices? I've found getting 4 Monroe struts for $332 after a 20% coupon from advanceautoparts.com. I've been reading on the forum about $65 struts somewhere? Are they good quality? Where are they found?

Thank you all in advance! I appreciate any input you may have on the matter.

FYI, my E is a 2003 4WD EX with 170,000 miles.

Thanks!

NILNOCA
 

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Hello everybody!
This is my first post! I've been reading the forum and I feel like you all are the best ones to answer my question(s). My shocks/struts are going out. I need to replace them. A mechanic told me "the front 2 struts are leaking. The back ones are starting to make sounds.* To replace all struts cost $1200." I'd like to do it myself if possible to save money.
Here are my questions:

1- I've read about a bunch of different things--struts, springs, mount, boot, or the full assembly. What of these do I need? I think it'd just be the struts and optional boots. Do I need the mounts, too?
Struts are basically the same thing as a shock, just in a different mounting style. Springs are the coil spring that is around the top of the strut. Mount? I would assume people are referring to the bearing plate as the mount. The bearing plate sits on top of the spring and sandwiches the spring in place. As for whether you need the "Mounts" or not, unless the mechanic specifically said the mounts were bad, I wouldn't spend the extra money.
2- Can/should I do this by myself? Is it complicated or simple? I'm handy with cars. I can do more than change brakes and oil on my own, but I'm no mechanic. Do I need any special tools besides a spring compressor to do this on my own? Can they be borrowed from a parts store? Also, I'm getting the gist that a spring compressor can be a sketchy thing to use? Thoughts?
If you've never done it before, I would strongly recommend against doing it yourself. If you get the spring compressor installed incorrectly, the results could literally be disastrous. People have been seriously injured from the spring flying out.
3- What parts do you all recommend? I want to get decent ones...too cheap and they'd go bad quick I would guess. I don't just want the cheapest (unless they're still great parts). But I don't need the fanciest, performance struts either. I just want something that is good and will last. What are your opinions on brand/model, etc? I'm seeing KYB, and a couple types of Monroe (or is that OESpectrum for the rear and Sensa-Trac for the front?) I'm planning on replacing all four.
There are plenty of high performance-go-fast brands to choose from. If you're not gonna race it or lower it, I personally would recommend Monroe
4- Where should I buy them? General parts store (Autozone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, etc.) or online (advanceautoparts.com, hondapartsnow.com)? What do you think has the best prices? I've found getting 4 Monroe struts for $332 after a 20% coupon from advanceautoparts.com. I've been reading on the forum about $65 struts somewhere? Are they good quality? Where are they found?
I try to support local businesses unless they have priced themselves out of sight

Thank you all in advance! I appreciate any input you may have on the matter.

FYI, my E is a 2003 4WD EX with 170,000 miles.

Thanks!

NILNOCA
Recommendations / comments in red above.
 

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If you're going to do it yourself and want to save money, but not deal with springs, buy new ones already assembled from one of the online Honda vendors. 5 bolts on each side and they're off. Of course it isn't quite that simple, but it ain't bad.

You might also have an Indy shop look at them, my struts have 160k on them and work. Honda shops like to diagnose them because they're easy and sound expensive.
 

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you will definately need a ball joint seperator for the front. it can be done by yerself, i just put new springs on my SC and if i didnt have my friend helping push down front and rear to help get the assemblies in i'd still be working at it. it really isn't hard but the assemblies are pretty heavy compared to others i've changed.
 

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Me too suspension

This past winter started to reveal a bunch of bumps and clunks from my E, also just about 100k. I've been working through the sounds and started with the simplest things first. Sway bar bushings are cheap and a breeze to replace. Next, sway bar links, do the backs first you got a little more access than the fronts. I'm looking on getting the front and rear oem shock/strut assemblies (available from many Honda online parts dealers Majestic, Bernardi Parts and more) choose the one closest to you to get the best shipping rates. The fronts run about $210 each and the backs $128 each. The assemblies are appealing to me as I don't have to mess with a spring compressor, they are more than struts alone but I like having the whole thing new. It's still cheaper than having to pay someone else to do it. I'm hoping I don't have to mess with the compliance bushings but it could happen. There is also a lower arm assembly available with bushings installed. Yeah it's more than just bushings alone but I don't have a hydraulic press at home.
 

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I didn't realize this was a year old thread..its TimD's fault!! (JK:)


it just depends on you mileage, what is actually worn or needs to be replaced, and what you want to spend. Replacing everything in the suspension can get pretty expensive.

My E is at 192K..Here in a few weeks, going to do a full rebuild and will be making a write-up about it. I've got a lot of parts already, but I might be ordering more. I currently have everything for the front, except inner steering tie-rods. For the rear, I have upper control arms, struts, upper strut mounts, stabilizer bushings and covers, stabilizer end links.

So far, I have spent about $460ish with $58ish on shipping for $520ish. And I'm going the cheap route! (probably could have saved $30 going with another brand instead of the moog stuff, but I didn't). I am still debating on: wheel bearings all 4 corners, inner steering tie-rods, bushings for rear lower arms(1 front, 1 rear for each side) bushings for rear knuckles (2 lower, 1 upper for each side) And finally deciding if I want to replace the steering u-joint on the steering column itself ($28ish for new joint/bolts/lock washers)
 

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So, I too am on this mission with my E, I have 199,889miles, lol, lots of other replacements, I have deturmined it was the front right strut and am replacing both, *(so I get this wobble at 40 mph to 45 mph, when deceleration. Or coasting, powering through it, or ****ting to change the game force or whatsever, also, if I hit a bump. While driveing, I had anot her driver drive along side. And said the tire wobbled left and right up and down,

I've checked. Ballenced the tires, replace the inner and outer tie rods, *(moog)
And I replaced the rack and pinion with a remanufactued, swapped my lines, and fluid, also changed the rear different mounts, and fluid, inspected the cv axels, look good, feel good when off the car, full of arnxel Grease, and I can make around locked circles, and iclines, no propb, I can launch up to 40, and I'm ok, for the most part. Lol
It had new a arm/bushigs, new suspension *(quick strut) , when I got it, the top bolts on the suspension were loose, to where the washers would rattle, and spin it the 1/4 space lol, so tighten then down, they don't have a alen head inside or a hold, the driver side fastend, and is fine, but the passanger side didn't take, had to tighten it up again after the issue started, now, if you go to tighten or loosen the top bolt, the whole rod spins, .... fail, also, the passenger side top hat center bushing is pressed down, lowe than the other on the driver side,
Contemplated new lowers, same springs, and moog top hats, or uper mounts,

Or full front assembly's, idk,
I like preformance, relyability, but in the 350$ range, lol,

I have a feeling that when you get them, new, the quick struts, after a little bit, they might need a tune or readjustment, and that probably never happend..., idk, I don't know shocks, I onow the construction the tools, and have a buddy with a wall mount tool, but as far aas suspension tuning and spring rates, I'm not sure, other than heights, idk,


But any help and review of new front assembly /parts, I need to order some in the next few days
 

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I too had a wobble feeling when accelerating. Thought the transmission was having issues. Needed to replace all the engine mounts. My mechanic said they were all bad, to the point where the rubber centers were almost shredded. Once changed, everything drove like new again. Check to see if this is the case for your issue.

Good Luck.
 
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