Honda Element Owners Club banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my E to the mechanic. Told me I needed to change some stuff (opted to fix it myself), gave me these two dorman part numbers.
917-224 (changed that today)

The other one was 917-277. The part is easy enough to find for sale but I can't find any info on it in relation to the element. Where it goes how to replace it etc. Any input would be appreciated. I'll put a link to a pic below. Thanks for your time.

 

· Registered
2004 EX AWD AT in Orange
Joined
·
127 Posts
Took my E to the mechanic. Told me I needed to change some stuff (opted to fix it myself), gave me these two dorman part numbers.
917-224 (changed that today)

The other one was 917-277. The part is easy enough to find for sale but I can't find any info on it in relation to the element. Where it goes how to replace it etc. Any input would be appreciated. I'll put a link to a pic below. Thanks for your time.

Fleetwood has the right of it about it's location.

This video has good advice on now to get it out, it does get a bit stuck and you do not want to yank on the electrical connector to remove it.

This video shows you how to clean and test it.

For checking actuation, here is the relevant manual page. Important to note the o-ring is seated near the soleniod, not on the end as the pictures would lead you to believe.
Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Paper


You probably just need to take it out and clean it. Put some engine oil on the oring before reinstall and test it. Long as it clicks, you are good.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Test the solenoid with 12v across the terminals. If it clicks, clean the screens, and slide that sucker back in. If it doesn’t click, replace with a proper Honda part. Don’t waste money replacing a part that’s simply dirty, and especially don’t replace those parts with non oem parts. Personally, I’ve never had one fail. Clogged screens to the point that they wouldn’t work, yes, but never a failure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,053 Posts
My advice for someone installing a dorman replacement part:
1) keep your receipt
2) check what the return policy is and what the warranty covers
3) keep your old part
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 07lmnt

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
There is also a cap on the right side of the cylinder head. You need to remove the belt and the power steering pump. You can see it once the power steering pump is off. It is held by 2 small bolts. I bet the screen on that one is dirty. Just clean it with a carb cleaner.
 

· Registered
2009 LX, Auto, AWD, Omni Pearl Blue
Joined
·
287 Posts
A number of the videos, including the "P1009 Honda VTC Valve Cleaning" posted above, talk about an o-ring at the end of the VTC valve that "gets stuck" inside the cylinder head when removing the valve.

There is an o-ring at the connector end of the VTC valve, but is there really also an o-ring at the free end of the valve?

I have a feeling there is not, and this is simply a misreading of the Honda parts diagram which, for illustration purposes, shows the connector-side o-ring off the free end of the valve.
 

· Registered
2004 EX AWD AT in Orange
Joined
·
127 Posts
A number of the videos, including the "P1009 Honda VTC Valve Cleaning" posted above, talk about an o-ring at the end of the VTC valve that "gets stuck" inside the cylinder head when removing the valve.

There is an o-ring at the connector end of the VTC valve, but is there really also an o-ring at the free end of the valve?

I have a feeling there is not, and this is simply a misreading of the Honda parts diagram which, for illustration purposes, shows the connector-side o-ring off the free end of the valve.
100% Correct
 

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Why did your mechanic tell you to change it?
Told me I needed to change vvt and the oil pressure switch. I think when he looked up the vvt this was the part that popped up. When I looked it up the vvt this part came up as often as the the actual one on the back of the engine so it was a bit confusing.
 

· Registered
2004 EX AWD AT in Orange
Joined
·
127 Posts
Told me I needed to change vvt and the oil pressure switch. I think when he looked up the vvt this was the part that popped up. When I looked it up the vvt this part came up as often as the the actual one on the back of the engine so it was a bit confusing.
Well, this must be based of of something that is going on. Many of which we have encountered.

Can you tell us what exactly is the reason your mechanic belived they should be replaced or why you had taken it in to begin with?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, this must be based of of something that is going on. Many of which we have encountered.

Can you tell us what exactly is the reason your mechanic belived they should be replaced or why you had taken it in to begin with?
Sure so I had taken it in because I had just purchased it. I've had it for about 3 weeks now. I knew it needed some work when I got it but I wanted and actual mechanic to go through it to see what all I'd be dealing with. The vvt solenoid and the oil pressure sensor were leaking oil. And he had called them the vtec solenoid and the vtec oil pressure switch. I changed these myself and they were definitely leaking. When I looked at the part in question it was dry and there is no code pertaining to it. Just the knock senor code..... which should be off sense I just changed that too. Think I broke that damn wire every one talks about.
 

· Registered
2004 EX AWD AT in Orange
Joined
·
127 Posts
For the oil pressure switch(part 13, below image), which lives directly below the vtec module in the back of the engine, so long as there is no oil under the boot the unit should be good, the seal is just bad. You can remove and reseal it with liquid gasket or teflon tape. The hard part is removing the wire connected to the OPs. For that, pull the rubber boot back up the cable to expose the yellow metal end, then use needlenose pliers of your choosing to pull it off. It is tight.

White Font Line Auto part Engineering



The vtec solenoid (part 12 in fleetw00d's first post diagram) lives directly on top of the vtec housing and that would prob need replacing if it tests out of spec with an ohm meter. And a new o-ring(part 15, fleetw00d) There is also the gasket filter in the vtec module itself(part 5, fleetw00d). If the module is tightened on to hard it can damage that gasket and leak. This and the previous are probably where your leak is.

Everything i mentioned i had to do to stop my leak, but that long part we have been discussing is a different bit entirely. If the oil is only at the back of the engine then it is not that 917-227 part(part 7, fleetw00d). Which dorman will call the vvt solenoid but is the VTC oil control valve assembly for Honda.(15830-RAA-A01 - Genuine Honda Valve Assembly, Vtc Oil Control)

This part lives at the top left side, just below the valve cover line and would leak down that left side of the engine if the seal was bad. Also just an o-ring(part 8,fleetw00d), but this one needs to be coated in oil when reinstalling.

All in all, i think the tech got the part wrong given your description, unless you do have oil coming down the left side.

Hopefully-E that is a bit more to the point.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top