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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
only recently ive been having this issue and it keeps getting worse, so i want to make sure its not something horribly serious.

When i;m doing things like driving 75 on the highway, then slowing down for a ramp without touching the brakes the whole car, mainly front end starts shaking and the steering wheel vibrates like it does when the tires arnt balanced. the car also does this when im making lefft hand curves on roads.

The tires are brand new with about 1000 miles on them and the alignment was done at the same time, and the brakes are around 6000 old. All these problems existed before I changed the tires. any suggestions are welcomed!
 

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only recently ive been having this issue and it keeps getting worse, so i want to make sure its not something horribly serious.

When i;m doing things like driving 75 on the highway, then slowing down for a ramp without touching the brakes the whole car, mainly front end starts shaking and the steering wheel vibrates like it does when the tires arnt balanced. the car also does this when im making lefft hand curves on roads.

The tires are brand new with about 1000 miles on them and the alignment was done at the same time, and the brakes are around 6000 old. All these problems existed before I changed the tires. any suggestions are welcomed!
I had a similar problem with my '04. It turned out the "inner axles were bad and had to be replaced.
 

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You probably mean inner CV joint.

The whole axle is generally replaced if this is the problem.

Funny to see this thread, thats exactly the job I'll be doing to my element this weekend. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well i went back to Firestone to have them check the balancing and alignment that they did 3 weeks ago because the shaking and shimmy of the car just keeps getting worse and its so bad it literally throws you around in your seat. The guy came back telling me I had some weights missing on a tire and it was throwing off my balance. they put more on no more cost to me but driving home tonight the same problem exists...

I dont get the shaking at all when going straight, it only happens when i switch lanes or on left curves in the road. The left curves are the worse of the two. and Ive notices the problem doesnt start to happen till I hit about 48-50 and then the shaking stays until the car slows down to around 38-40mph..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i went back to firestone, had the guy test drive it, and turns out my front passenger strut is broken. He was able to pick the whole tire up and bend it into the car...

So question, I'm not mechanically inclined I'm going to rebuild and engine but I do my own maintenance like new brakes. How difficult is it to change out and install new struts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
since both front struts were just replaced may 2010 I call my mechanic who installed those. Drove the car to the mechanic, he takes it in the garage, lifts it and sees absolutely nothing wrong with the struts, either of them. he brought me back and they look perfectly fine and the tired didn't bend in like before..

but he still felt the shimmying when he test drove it so i left it for the time being until he finds what he thinks is wrong.. I'll answer back when I know more...
 

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since both front struts were just replaced may 2010 I call my mechanic who installed those. Drove the car to the mechanic, he takes it in the garage, lifts it and sees absolutely nothing wrong with the struts, either of them. he brought me back and they look perfectly fine and the tired didn't bend in like before..

but he still felt the shimmying when he test drove it so i left it for the time being until he finds what he thinks is wrong.. I'll answer back when I know more...
Forget the struts. Go back to Firestone and get a picture of the biceps on that mechanic. Unless he pulled one of the tie rods before showing you how much you needed a strut job, I'm thinking it's more like a "snow job".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Forget the struts. Go back to Firestone and get a picture of the biceps on that mechanic. Unless he pulled one of the tie rods before showing you how much you needed a strut job, I'm thinking it's more like a "snow job".
:lol: true true, I said the same to my mechanic, there was about a 10, 15 min max time window before i got my car back after he showed me that, so I don't know if they were just trying to bs' me to get me to go somewhere else or get more money out of me but i had them print me up a quote and a write up saying that they diagnosed that as the cause of the shaking before I left.
 

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I have a similar shimmy, and what I found was that both of my front lower control arm bushings are bad (torn), which makes the toe in the front change randomly making vibration, and the steering pulls on grooves, and dips in the road. I have purchased new bushings, but haven't installed them yet. You may want to check those.
 

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Check sub-frame bolts

Hi,

I recently got through troubleshooting a similar shaking/shimmy. It was tough for me to pinpoint because I thought it was the front of the car, but it turned out it was coming from the rear.

I've got 86,000 miles on mine with original suspension parts. The last time I was under the car, I noticed the rear subframe bolts had shaken loose. These are the big bolts that connect the undercarriage. There are two per side, and easily accessible right under the rear bumper. I think they are 19mm, and you need two wrenches to hold one side while you tighten the other.

These subframe bolts gave the rear of the car some play and felt like a slight swaying, which became amplified when in motion on the freeway. The car would hop as it got up to speed, and it wouldn't track evenly.

Before I realized this was the issue, I used to get a shimmy around 50mph, and uneven tire wearing in the rear. I went through a couple of unneeded tire balancings and alignments because nobody thought to check whether there were problems with the actual frame itself. If you think about an alignment rack, it probably wouldn't replicate the problem since the car's not in motion.

I needed to use permanent thread locker, but they haven't shaken loose and I haven't had the shimmy problem since. The only bumping that comes from my car now is from the stereo. :)
 
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